Belgian Block Curbing – Still Installed The Old Way

Hardscape · Written by Roger


You’re probably thinking, “Jeez, look at that guy lying down on the job while everybody else is working!”. Actually, what he’s doing is critical to how the belgian block curbing will come out.

belgian block curb installationHis job is to “eye-up” the top line of each belgian block and shout directions to the guy with the hammer. The belgian block is sitting in fresh cement, and by tapping the block with the hammer it can be adjusted in small increments to get it just right.

As antiquated as this method may seem, there is simply no substitute. Of course I should tell you that the pitch and grades for this driveway and curbing were all set using a laser level. String lines are often used as reference points to ensure proper pitch.

It’s always interesting to watch the different trades mix modern day technology with good old fashion know-how.

Good Things To Know About Belgian Block Curbing

In the proper order of things, the curbing heights should be anticipated early on in the project because the top of the finished curb dictates surrounding grades.  You need to know this right from the beginning so you can plan your grading and drainage work accordingly.

Consider installing any PVC sleeves and/or conduits before belgian block curbing goes in.  These curbs have concrete footings that will be difficult to contend with if you need to get a pipe through them.

belgian block curbRemember to discuss “curb reveal” early on as well.  Curb reveal is the amount of curb face showing on the pavement side. Typically on residential properties we like to show approximately 4″ of curb.  This, of course, can vary according to personal taste and circumstance.

Municipal codes and regulations come into play at times, particularly near and along public roads. Visit the town zoning & engineering office to check.  Don’t find out it’s in violation after it’s installed. Ouch!

Lastly, I want to mention “drop curbs”.  These are stretches in the normal curb-line where the top of the curb gradually slopes down to become flush with the paving.

Not only do drop curbs look nice by keeping the curb line “continuous,” but they structurally maintain the supportive edge (on both sides).  Whether it’s asphalt, decorative gravel or paver bricks, a structural edge like belgian block is best.  It’s a permanent feature that will forever support and contain the surfaces.

Be Sociable, Share!
    , ,

    9 Responses to “Belgian Block Curbing – Still Installed The Old Way”

    1. Norman III Says:

      I have been setting belgian blocks and cobbles on and off for more than half my life and I set them the true natural way. In my mind, “the tighter the better” is how its done. Never tap a stone into place with a steel hammer, a 5 pound rubber mallet leaves no marks. Myself, as the stone setter uses my own eye.

    2. Elaine Says:

      We have Belgium block steps that lead to our backyard.
      The mortar has decayed between the blocks. We were told that you need a special cement or mortar joint for Belgium block. Cement falls out does not adhere to the blocks.
      Please advise.

    3. Roger Says:

      Hmmm. I’m not familiar with any special mortar to use with belgian block.

      Now it could be that the mortar mix proportions, i.e. sand and portland, may vary for belgian block, but I have never heard that.

      To get more information you could call mason supply yards and ask them.

      I will say that deteriorating mortar joints does happen over time. And various conditions can affect and accelerate that. For example, snow melting material used on walkways and stairs can cause this. How the steps are built and if they drain properly is another factor. Is this work built on a stable footing? Etc.

    4. Jean Kunkel Says:

      I have belgium block edging which has worked well for many years around my driveway. I then had a slate walkway done three years ago with belgium block edging which was not cemented and now needs to be done properly.It at the top of a slo.p Since my husband’s illness and death I now need to complete this project, any suggestions? Thanks, Jean

    5. Roger Says:

      Sorry for your loss.
      You can dry-set Belgian block (i.e. without concrete), but it can, and likely will “move” some. Of course a lot depends on how well it’s installed, the site conditions, and certainly freezing temperatures, which can cause “heaving” and movement.
      I’ll bet the driveway Belgian block is set in a concrete base of sorts, which is the typical way it’s installed. And if possible, I’d do the same for the walkway.
      The slate walkway could then be re-set in a dry-laid fashion (w/o concrete). The properly set Belgian block will provide an excellent border to retain the dry-laid slate walkway. Just make sure whoever does the dry-laid slate work that they prepare and install the proper base for the walk.

    6. Cyrus Juster Says:

      Do you also cement between blocks or just butt them?

    7. Roger Says:

      The joints are typically jointed with (mortar) cement. There are situations where the joint gaps remain open for drainage reasons.

    8. Michael Says:

      I recently picked up some old Belgium blocks to create a 10′ x 4′ apron for a driveway. What do I need to create the “compact base”.

    9. Roger Says:

      There are a number of ways to set the Belgian block apron. But basically there are 2 base differences — one being dry-set, where no concrete is used, and the other is with concrete.

      Over the years I’ve been involved with quite a few different installs, and today we use a concrete install method.

      I can’t get into all the details, but the method includes a poured concrete base which the blocks are then set on. Then, the joints are “partially” filled with mortar. The remaining joint space is then filled with polymer joint sand.

      You could certainly do a dry-set install with a compacted base of “quarry process” (a binder material), set the blocks with a layer of coarse concrete sand, and joint with polymer joint sand. As I’m sure you realize, the base preparation is perhaps the most important aspect. Since it is a driveway install the base area should be excavated at least 14″ down to ensure at least 10″ of compacted quarry process.

      If you don’t have a plate compactor you can rent one. Compact the excavated area first, and then compact the quarry process in 4″ layers. You can never have too much compaction when it comes to hardscape installs. :-)

    Leave a Reply