During your walk around the house make a point of asking homeowners what rooms are which from the outside. They’ll most likely invite you in so you can  appreciate what they see (and feel) from the different rooms.

This is by no means a new concept.  Attentive architects will design and orient homes to capitalize on views from the inside out.

In this post I want to talk about the role ornamental trees can play from inside the home and some of the particular ones you can use for this purpose.

Ornamental Trees Are Like Swiss Army Knives

Smaller and mid-size ornamental trees are really versatile in landscape design.  They’re certainly useful on large scale properties, and frankly indispensible on small scale ones.

When properly chosen an ornamental tree can give canopy or ceiling to a space without taking up a lot of room. Used in relative close proximity to a building they can help soften parts of the architecture.

Design / Sales Tip: A complete landscape project can be a huge expense.  “Phasing” the project is a common way to break up the cost.  You can recommend installing the trees as part of phase 1.  Since the trees have such impact on the landscape, planting them early gives an immediate effect; a lot of ROI for the first installment on the landscape. Plus it gives these key design elements a chance to establish early and get growing.

Branches So Close You Can Almost Touch Them

In the picture above is Flowering Dogwood planted approximately 7′ from the foundation of a raised porch area.

This ornamental tree should grow 18 – 20′ in height and 14 – 16′ in width. And because the porch is open and recessed the dogwood should not encroach into the side of the home.

In the picture below you can see the view the homeowner has from her kitchen window. The closeness of the branching (and flowers in spring) are almost part of the interior decor. Birds will sometimes use the tree as a perch, especially to feast on the glossy red fruit in early fall. She’s told me several times how much enjoyment she gets year-round from that dogwood.

Here are some of the ornamental trees to use near the home that have benefits from the inside too.

• Flowering Dogwood – Well of course.  It’s probably one of the best for this use.  However, flowering dogwood can have plant health issues such as anthracnose and borers. Just make sure you “site it” carefully to avoid stressing the plant. Approximate tree width 14 – 16′.

• Kousa Dogwood – This dogwood is more resistant to anthracnose than standard dogwood and flowers typically 3 weeks later. Another nice feature: Its trunk becomes multicolored with shades of brown, tan and gray. Approximate tree width 14 – 16′.

• Rutgers Hybrid Dogwoods – These dogwoods are from a cross-breeding program started by Dr. Orton at Rutgers University. These hybrids share the traits of standard dogwood and kousa to produce superior plants in terms of plant health. They’re a great choice. Approximate tree width 14 -16′.

• Japanese Maple – There are numerous varieties of this specie so be aware of the particular plant’s characteristics you’re considering. Their branching and trunk architecture is unmatched. Approximate tree width 14 – 16′ (varies among the many cultivars).

• Paperbark Maple – Has an upright and oval form. As the tree matures the bark starts to exfoliate showing beautiful shades of red-brown and cinnamon. Approximate tree width 14 – 16′.

• Japanese Stewartia – Somewhat pyramidal in shape and has camellia-like flowers in June/July. This later-than-spring flowering always gets a nod from homeowners. Approximate tree width 10 – 14′.

Plant Characteristics To Look For

Some of the characteristics to look for when siting an ornamental tree close to the house and to be viewed from the inside are:

• An open branching structure. Avoid trees that have dense foliage and branching.

• Moderate growing that can be easily pruned to control and “influence” branching. (We’ll talk more about directing growth by pruning in future posts).

• Attractive features like flowering, leaf shape and color, trunk color and texture, etc.

Plant health and hardiness are certainly considerations as they would be for any of your plant selections.

You’ll notice I’ve mentioned approximate plant width several times already. It’s so important you know that for each tree you consider, especially when you’re looking for the effect of branching right outside a window.

You want to space the tree from the home close to the potential radius of the tree.  If you do that it will ensure years and years of enjoyment.  Perhaps you’ll need to prune a bit to shape and direct the plant, but this should be minor.

The views from inside the home are important for you to consider as landscape designers and contractors. Your customers will get more enjoyment out of their landscape not only during the day, but also at night if lighting is part of your project.

The Benefits of Window Boxes

Once you realize how effective they can be in your designs you will want to consider window boxes as possible design solutions. Some of their benefits and effects are:

• They bring life to an otherwise flat and boring facade.
• They add depth and dimension.
• They add color, texture and seasonal change.

In the picture above imagine the home without these window boxes.  The look changed dramatically when they were added. And this garage side is an important area for this home.  Guests and family frequently use this back area to park and enter the house – more so than the front entrance.

Just because they’re called “window boxes” should not limit their use to under windows.  As I mentioned above, “they bring life to flat and boring surfaces”.

A window box can give dimension and interest to a fence or an expanse of barren wall.

The railing on this deck came alive with the addition of these fiberglass window boxes.  They add interest and enjoyment whether you’re on or off the deck.

Seasonal Change for Window Boxes

Here in the northeast there are four distinct seasons.  You could conceivably make changes in the boxes to represent those seasons just like we do in the gardens themselves.

On our projects we have used living plants and natural materials in our arrangements, but also artificial things as well.

The window box above is made of a decorative iron frame with a cedar wood planter box cradled inside.

We used a plastic insert inside the wood planter and had an artificial floral arrangement made in it.

During the warmer months the homeowner has the artificial arrangement showing.  But in the colder months the window box is left empty.  It’s so beautiful that it can easily stand on its own.

Alternatively you could do a cold weather arrangement using evergreen branches, cones and other natural elements.

Styles and Types

There are numerous styles and types of window boxes. Do a Google search and you’ll probably find what you’re looking for. When your design calls for something unique either because of style or size you can always have something made. The iron and wood window box pictured above was fabricated by a metal railing contractor and a carpenter.

Here are some of the manufactured types available:

• Decorative metal cradle with an insert planter of another metal (e.g. copper, tin, etc.), wood, or a natural fibrous liner like coconut mat.
• Wood in endless styles and types.
• Vinyl in various forms.  Walpole Woodworkers offers solid cellular vinyl that is almost indistinguishable from real wood.
• Fiberglass

Hardware and Mounting

Most of the manufactured window boxes have their own mounting recommendations and  hardware. Often the styles with decorative brackets use those brackets for mounting. Some models have an integrated mounting system that is hidden. There are mounting brackets for deck railings as well.

Needless to say you want the mounting system you use to be rock solid.  Between the weight of the window box, the soil media inside and the wear and tear of the outdoor elements, you should not compromise on the mounting.

Soil Media and Watering

If you plant your window boxes you want to be conscious of soil media and watering.

Ideally the soil mix should be typical of a any good potting mix, i.e. rich, organic and well-drained. In terms of pH most annuals tolerate a range, but just be aware of what you’re planting and if it has a particular preference.

Check to make sure the window box has drainage holes and be conscious of what’s underneath them.  They’re going to drip for awhile after watering.

There are soil moist polymer products that can be added to your soil mix to improve the moisture retention.  These can dramatically help reduce the frequency of watering.

And finally, there are drip irrigation systems that can be set up to water on a scheduled basis. While some are manufactured specifically for this purpose, I would normally ask the irrigation contractor to design and integrate the planter drip system with the overall irrigation for the landscape. Just make sure you have independent control such as a dedicated zone or a separately valved feed.

Window boxes really do add a level of detail you don’t normally see in the landscape. It takes a bit of effort in terms of finding the right window box, mounting it correctly and tending to the plantings and arrangements, but the ROI is worth it. Your landscape will stand out for sure.

Why Consider Masonry Steps Over Wood?

Whether you are deciding on steps as part of new construction or to replace existing wood steps, these are 3 aspects to consider:

1. Longevity
2. Upkeep & maintenance
3. Safety

Longevity.  I often mention the wearing affects of exposure and the outdoor elements on everything in the landscape.   From a practical sense this should be on your mind constantly.

This first picture shows the existing wood steps in a renovation project of this older home.  Over the years the wood has fought a noble battle against the elements, but it’s taken its toll.  Whereas the masonry fieldstone foundation and wing-walls are in great shape.

Upkeep and Maintenance.  There are certainly well-made wooden steps constructed of the best wood-types for outdoor use, but they still require regular care.  Some are painted while others have a wood sealer applied.

How often this maintenance has to be done varies (depending on exposure and the elements), but some homeowners will do it as frequently as once a year.

Safety.  All steps no matter what they’re made of have to be looked at from a safety standpoint.  Building codes have specific guidelines in that regard.

Here, however, I’m referring to the slipperiness of the step treads.  In fact, the homeowner of this house was saying how dangerous the wood steps were when wet.

Masonry Stone Steps Solve These Concerns

Replacing the old wood steps with masonry stone steps was a “no-brainer”.  The homeowner loved the look and the fact that these steps will outlast us all.  Equally convincing was the ease of maintenance (what maintenance?) and safety.  No slippery surface on these treads!

The decorative railing is aluminum with a powder-coat painted finish.  This too was chosen to last a long time with minimal care.

So, is it good-bye wood steps in the landscape?

Of course not.  Beyond the point of just personal preference, objectively speaking there are situations where wood steps “just work”.  For example, in many wood deck designs the steps are an integral part of the look (see below).

Good design should weigh all possibilities along with their pros and cons.  After that you can make the decision that works best for you.P.S. I just wanted to mention Lester Szajna (stone mason and contributor here on LandscapeAdvisor) built the stone steps pictured above.  He searched and found fieldstone to match the existing stonework, and tinted the mortar to help the match as well.

• What is the main purpose of the planting design?
• How much and what “level” of care will be given to this landscape?
• How will the gardens look throughout the year?

What’s the purpose for this planting design?

Sometimes there is an absolute functional reason to “work” the landscape, such as a slope with erosion or a nasty view that needs screening.  Other times it could be purely aesthetics where you just want to create something beautiful for enjoyment.  More often than not the two goals work side by side.

From a functional and practical sense, the sign in this landscape needed a “setting” where lawn mowers and other equipment would not come near it.  In addition, future lighting will need a safe area for the fixtures to sit.

Who’s going to take care of this planting design and what’s it going to cost?

Every aspect of your design should be considered from a maintenance and longevity standpoint.

“Every time you establish a planned landscape there is care and on-going cost associated with it.”

Line design, plant selection & spacing, hardscape choices, groundcovers, mulch – you name it and it will have an affect on care and on-going cost.

Homeowners need to be aware of this fact and consider it in their initial decision making.  Yes, climbing wisteria is a beautiful thing, but realize what goes along with it.

If you’ll look at the plan pictured below, the shape of the bed is a simple oval; making it a snap to cut the grass and line trim the edge.

The two evergreens used are Cherry Laurel and Blue Star Juniper.  For the most part these plants can mature on their own with little pruning and intervention.  Most problematic and maintenance-heavy landscapes are due to poor plant selection and arrangement.

How will the garden look throughout the year?

A main request for this planting design was to have seasonal color.  For this circumstance and relatively small garden, I decided on 2 symmetrical areas dedicated to seasonal color.  Yes, we discussed the work and cost to maintain this feature and it was acceptable.  What you’re seeing now (summer) is New Guinea Impatiens and “Wave” Petunias.

The seasonal color plantings cover April to November.  In the off-season the evergreen Laurel and Juniper carry the garden with balance and interest.

This design is so simple, yet it functions as it should.

If you have a question on a landscape you’re working on, ask it in the comments below.  If you have a picture and it’s posted on the web (e.g. Flickr, Yahoo, Picasa, etc.), include the link in your comment.

One thing you learn from doing landscape renovation projects is what works and what doesn’t.  The test of time will often determine if something was built correctly or not.

And because our work is outside, never underestimate the affects of  mother nature on the materials you choose and how they are “put together”.  Sun exposure, shade, moisture, temperature, wind, soil type, drainage – these are just some of natures’ forces working against your creations.

Dave Kennedy of Lavelle Farms is handling all aspects of the exterior renovation of this home.  He has recommended to the homeowner a classic bluestone walkway.

This front walkway is one of several hardscape features the family want done as part of phase 1 in this renovation.

Base Prep – Step 1 To Building It Right

I’ll bet most people have heard the advice: “Build it on a good foundation”.  Truer words have never been spoken.

For a “dry-set” bluestone walkway, the base the bluestone sits on is essentially its foundation.

A dry-set bluestone walkway relies on a thick, compacted aggregate base that drains well.

What you’re walkway doesn’t want is:

• moisture building up underneath the stone.  Water can contribute to unstable conditions, and if it freezes can “heave” the surface stones out of position.
• loose or organic soil as part of the sub-base.  The earth that you ultimately build your walkway’s base on should be compacted sub-soil.  Top soils containing organics (such as leaf litter, roots, etc.) should never be used.  Soils like that should be removed.

After excavating for the bluestone walkway the sub-soil is compacted with a vibratory plate compactor.  Dave uses stringlines as a constant reference during construction.

All specifics such as walkway pitch and number of steps are worked out in the designing phase.

After sub-soil compaction Mirafi filter fabric is laid at the bottom and sides to keep the base material from mixing with the sub-soil.  In the picture above 3/4″ clean gravel is dumped onto the fabric to start the bluestone walkway base.

Do not add more than 6″ of base gravel at a time without compacting.

To set the actual bluestone a smaller diameter gravel is layered on top of the coarser gravel.  This smaller gravel also drains well and is easier to adjust when setting each stone.

The bluestone walkway is 5′ wide to comfortably handle two people walking side by side.  I would suggest not going under 4′ wide for a “primary” walkway.

The 2 steps are each solid bluestone with consistent 6″ risers.  Dave “hand-tooled” the sides to get the natural rock-faced look.

Natural Stone – A Good Choice

The final choice for the walkway’s surface should combine considerations for:

• Style and look.
• Function and durability.
• Cost to value.

This is a decision you’ll live with for some time.  Also, it could be a factor when and if you sell the house.  In terms of style, choose a material that’s classic and timeless.

Thinking again about the affects of nature over the long haul, is this material able to stand the test of time?  Will the color change or fade?  Will the actual material break down and fragment?  Is it slippery when wet?  Easy to shovel snow off?

In terms of cost to value it’s important to identify those features that are important to you and get proposals that will give those results.  You can then make the decision as to whether this cost is justified for your circumstance.

Natural stone always makes a good choice.  Certainly there are some bad choices among the natural stones too, but generally they offer timeless style, durability and good value.

Stone steps come in all styles.  Essentially their role is to get you from one level to another.

In good landscape design, how stone steps look is as important as how they function.  Frankly, that should be the case of every element in a well-designed landscape.

When we speak of the function for steps, it’s important to realize if these steps are the only option to get from one level to another.  Or, are there alternative ways in the design.

And if there are alternative ways, what role of importance will these particular steps provide?

If the area to access is important and only one set of steps is used, then they have to conform to the features of any safe and frequently used stairway.  In fact, depending on the situation, you may be subject to building code parameters.  As always, it’s smart to be up to speed on these regulations.

In the project pictured above there is a pool and patio level on top and a cobble-like paver walkway below.  There are 3 alternative ways to get from this lower level to the pool.

1. Near the driveway and where guests would enter the backyard there is a “primary” set of masonry steps with stone veneer risers and bluestone step treads.   I call them primary because this is the main set of steps to the area.

These masonry steps meet every requirement for safety including a handrail.  They did require a construction permit and were inspected.

2. At the other end of the pool/patio, the lower grade was sloped up to meet the patio.  This alternate access is grass and allows for an “easy-go” if you’re wheeling something or would just rather not navigate steps.

3. In between the masonry steps and the sloped lawn access we planned to have boulders and plantings to retain the earth.  While setting the boulders it came to us to offer a 3rd alternate access to the homeowner.  They have children who we thought would love a “rock-climbing-like” step/path down to the cobble walkway.  (See the first picture).

The Type Of Stone Step You Build Should Relate To Its Use

Here’s why these “rough” fieldstone steps work:

• they are not the only access
• they provide a  novel experience for the young & adventuresome.  (Not to say the older folks can’t give them a go too.)
• they add interest to the garden

These “rough” stone steps in the first picture were simply picked out of a stockpile of fieldstone boulders that were delivered.  By selecting rocks with flatter sides, “stone steps were born”.

If you wanted to have an informal and natural set of steps, but with a bit more consistency, stone slab-steps are available.  As seen in the picture to the right, these steps are more angular and come from the quarry in slabs.

Although they’re not dimensionally the same, you can request certain size ranges and that helps with building stone steps to fit your plan and vision.

To make the rise-height of each step the same, you can adjust the “setting bed” (usually gravel) to make the stone sit higher or lower.

There are other techniques which involve cutting the stone with a diamond blade to make it fit the situation.  I’m sure in future posts I’ll be able to show you some of these persuasive techniques.

Stone step design is only limited by your imagination.  How have you utilized rocks into stairways?  Let us know in the comments below.

PVC Conduit

The rigid, Sch. 40 PVC pipe shown in this picture is most often used for electrical wire -  like  THHN conductor wire that cannot be buried directly in the ground.  However, there’s no reason you can’t run other types of wire (and things) through this conduit too.

Rigid PVC conduit like this comes in various diameters along with numerous types of “fittings” and connectors to accommodate most any situation.  With a combination of these fittings and special PVC glue you can create a sealed environment to protect the wires and splices inside.

Earlier I mentioned the use of poly pipe as a conduit.  I’m referring to the black poly pipe used in underground sprinkler work.

Poly Sprinkler Pipe As A Conduit

Poly Pipe – Handy, Cheap and Effective

If your a landscape contractor, odds are good you have this kind of pipe on-hand anyway.  Perhaps you do sprinkler systems as part of your service offering.  At the very least you should have it on hand for:

• Repairs -  You’d have to call yourself supernatural if you’ve never broken a sprinkler line during a dig-operation.
• Sprinkler Modification -  It’s inevitable that an existing sprinkler head has to be moved because of a new plant or hardscape install.  Or how about an underground poly pipe running right where “something new” has to go.  You’ll need to piece-in an additional section to go around the new feature.
• Conduits -  Poly pipe provides a cheap and effective conduit for many situations.

In the picture above we’re using poly (sprinkler) pipe as a conduit for our low voltage lighting wire.

We installed these poly pipe “runs” early on in the project at a particular time when other utility trenches were open and final grades were not yet established.  We utilized the other open trenches and easily dug to other locations without “tip-toeing” around finished or semi-finished areas.

To do this it’s important you have a detailed landscape plan that illustrates:

• light fixture and tranformer locations
• specific, calculated cable runs
• locations of all other proposed features and elements

With this information you can safely locate your conduit without fear of running into it later on.

Multiple Conduit Runs

Notice how pipe ends are bent over to insure dirt does not enter.

The colored marking tape tells the story as to which pipe goes where and what it’s for.  Write down the “color-key legend” on your plan.  When the time comes to pull wire through these conduits, you’ll know exactly which conduits do what.

These simple conduit runs can save you headaches, work and your client money if you think creatively and strategically, especially in the early stages of your project.

We actually installed additional conduit runs for speaker wire that would be pulled through in the future for rock speakers.

How have you used conduit in different ways?  Feel free to comment below.

How often we look at a situation and think, “I just need a mounded-form plant that’s nice and full; that I can rely on.”  (It sounds like what a plant would request with a dating service.)

Cherry Laurel ‘Otto Luyken’ is the variety I’m referring to.  Its characteristics consistently satisfy the needs and wants in my designs.

Qualities and characteristics.

Hardy in zones 6 to 8, this Cherry Laurel has a compact spreading habit with lush, glossy, dark green leaves.  It usually grows to around 3 – 4′ high and 6 – 8′ wide.  This is such useful shape and size in planting design.

The white flowers show in April and May for a couple of weeks depending on weather and geographic location.

Although there is a small, purple – black fruit after flowering, it’s hard to find within the thick foliage.

As far as exposure goes, I’ve used Cherry Laurel in sun and it has stood up well.  Given the choice the plant will generally prefer partial shade to shade.

Most broadleaf evergreens like rich, organic soil that’s  moist, but well-drained.  Like I’ve said many times before (I can’t help it – this is so important), moist does not mean wet, and well-drained means…well-drained!

Cherry Laurel does not like wet, heavy soil.  So check out the soil condition.  Amend it if you have to.  Be conscious of planting in low areas where water might collect.  Planting height is always a concern so make sure the top of the ball is slightly above existing grade.  Plant higher if in doubt, and leave room for mulch.

Oh, here’s 2 other qualities worth noting.  Cherry Laurel has been found to be deer resistant.  Now this may vary depending on where you are because we all know this “deer resistance” thing is not an exact science.  In my area the deer won’t bother it.

Cherry Laurel will also tolerate salt spray for you shore area designer / gardeners.

Use and design.

This picture shows Cherry Laurel used “en masse” as an understory to an old stand of Canadian Hemlock.  Notice the filtered light they’re getting.  We used 5′ spacing allowing them to eventually touch.

In the first picture at the top it’s another setting with filtered light.  You can see again how well they “mass”…this time it’s a group of 3.  The pachysandra groundcover fills in space without competing with the laurel.  This strategy works well when the planting is young and you might have alot of open space to deal with.

Foundation plantings, borders, you name it.  On a slope it can work well too because the spreading habit conveys a horizontal to downward feeling which diminishes the slope.

If you haven’t tried Cherry Laurel ‘Otto Luyken’ give it a go.  Just make sure the conditions meet its cultural requirements.  For those who have used the plant, please let us know how in the comments.  And if it’s been in the ground for awhile, “How’s it growing?”

Two of the functions of good planting design that work together to marry the house to the site are:

1. to complement the home
2. to have the home appear integrated (connected) to its surroundings

There are certainly other functions accomplished by good planting design, like creating spaces, directing views and traffic, screening, etc.   But this “complementing and integrating the house to the site” is major.

In the picture above, this house is desperate for both hardscape and landscape planting design.  The house dominates the relatively narrow property and to make matters worse, the grade drops off steadily on the right.

We know this house is “off-balance” and the right side is just dominating the view with its tall expanse of siding and windows.

You’re probably thinking what I first thought.  Why couldn’t there be a huge 80′ shade tree on the right side front?   Can you imagine how that would change the whole picture?

It was not to be.  The new homeowners had come from a previous property that had loads of large trees and they did not “want to go there…again”.

Think long-term, think work-in-progress.

I mentioned it before in previous posts – these landscapes are works-in-progress.  Provided you do a professional job from day one, odds are good you’ll be adding to and modifying this landscape in the future.  For example, I’m thinking that someday I’ll be helping this homeowner select a nice, big shade tree for the right side front.

But in the meantime…

Never underestimate the effectiveness of mid-size ornamental trees, especially in close proximity to the house.

The homeowner welcomed the idea of ornamental trees.  I suggested Purpleleaf Plum off the right front corner.  It’s planted approximately 15′ from the building giving it room to develop.

Now brace yourself because I recommended Japanese Red Maple for the side of the house.  I know what you’re thinking: “What are you crazy?  There isn’t much room for that tree to grow!”

Before you report me to the “Better Plant Use Bureau” let me explain.  Japanese Maple is one of those trees that by shape and form is very “malleable “.  What I mean is the growth habit and branch structure respond and react really well to pruning.

Oh, and one more point to make with regard to using the maple close to the house.  We searched for this plant looking for a particular shape and branch structure.  It stands about 18′ high.  Dave Kennedy, our contributing landscape contractor, used one of his mechanical tree spades to dig the plant and place it in a wire basket.  A skid steer was used to bring it to the planting spot.

The house has a home.

The two ornamental trees add much needed weight to the right side of the house.  Their height breaks up the broad expanse of  the windows and siding.  Notice how the tree canopies soften the transition from the flat plane of the property to the vertical lines of the building.

I should mention too the improved psychological feeling particularly when you drive or walk down the driveway.  Just having the tree branching reaching out overhead helps immensely to make you feel more comfortable.

The foliage colors, flowering and textures of the trees and the understory plantings complement the home.  Add 2 to 3 years of growth with proper care and this home will be even more integrated with its surroundings.

Let me first suggest tell you that you need to measure the elevations (vertical heights) in the area your designing your walk and/or steps.  Grades & pitch can be very deceptive.  Even after 30 years experience I will not “go by eye” on this one. It’s suggested that the maximum slope for walks be 10%.  Or, in other words, 12″ of rise over 10′ of walk.

In my opinion, walks should not exceed a 5% slope (or 12″ of rise over 20′ of walk).  Often it comes down to personal preference.  So if you’re building this walk for someone, make sure they understand what you’re proposing.  More on how to show them your idea(s) in a bit.

In the first picture the walkway seems to be pitched around 12″ over 10′ of walk (or 10%).  The entrance to this walkway (2nd picture) appears to be even steeper.

Now here I am telling you to always measure elevations and I can’t give you the specifics on this walk.  That’s because it’s not my project and I didn’t want to get arrested for trespassing. (I’m losing my sense of adventure.)

With exact elevation measurements you can calculate your different design concepts and compare them to one another.

You can always first consider some “creative” re-grading, but often “steps” are the best way to mitigate a steep walkway.

Seeing Is Believing

Most people have a hard time visualizing things.  I use mock-ups of all kinds to help others and myself really see what’s planned and possible.

I’ll sometimes illustrate an idea for a walkway and/or steps using stakes and a string line.  When set up exactly at the proposed heights, they show the profile of the walk’s surface (pitch) and the risers & treads of the steps.  This let’s the homeowner (and myself) see how it will potentially look.  I find that this simple mock-up always clears up any uncertainty and prevents any design regrets after construction.

Things To Consider When Building Landscape Steps

• Do not compromise on the base for the steps.  If they are masonry steps you should have a concrete footing according to local code.  If they are dry-set steps (stone, cast concrete or timber) you should have a well-compacted aggregate base.  Nothing is worse than steps that “move” over time because of poor base and footing work.
• For landscape steps the riser should be greater than 4″, but no more than 6 ½”.  There are always going to be exceptions, but try to stay within these parameters.
• Here’s a simple formula for calculating the riser height and tread length:  2 (riser) + tread = 26″.   For example, if the riser is going to be 6″, then : 2 (6) + 14 = 26″.   So the tread should be 14″.  Again, use this as a “guideline”.
• Where steps return into the surrounding sloped grade, make sure the step has “finished” sides that are nice to look at.  On the same note, make sure the sloped sides of earth are stabilized to support & conceal the base work for the steps.  Groundcover, grass and even decorative boulders can help with this.

Planning landscape steps and walks really supports the idea that form should follow function.  And yet personal preference always plays a part in the final solution.  What say you?  Feel free to comment.