PVC Conduit

The rigid, Sch. 40 PVC pipe shown in this picture is most often used for electrical wire -  like  THHN conductor wire that cannot be buried directly in the ground.  However, there’s no reason you can’t run other types of wire (and things) through this conduit too.

Rigid PVC conduit like this comes in various diameters along with numerous types of “fittings” and connectors to accommodate most any situation.  With a combination of these fittings and special PVC glue you can create a sealed environment to protect the wires and splices inside.

Earlier I mentioned the use of poly pipe as a conduit.  I’m referring to the black poly pipe used in underground sprinkler work.

Poly Sprinkler Pipe As A Conduit

Poly Pipe – Handy, Cheap and Effective

If your a landscape contractor, odds are good you have this kind of pipe on-hand anyway.  Perhaps you do sprinkler systems as part of your service offering.  At the very least you should have it on hand for:

• Repairs -  You’d have to call yourself supernatural if you’ve never broken a sprinkler line during a dig-operation.
• Sprinkler Modification -  It’s inevitable that an existing sprinkler head has to be moved because of a new plant or hardscape install.  Or how about an underground poly pipe running right where “something new” has to go.  You’ll need to piece-in an additional section to go around the new feature.
• Conduits -  Poly pipe provides a cheap and effective conduit for many situations.

In the picture above we’re using poly (sprinkler) pipe as a conduit for our low voltage lighting wire.

We installed these poly pipe “runs” early on in the project at a particular time when other utility trenches were open and final grades were not yet established.  We utilized the other open trenches and easily dug to other locations without “tip-toeing” around finished or semi-finished areas.

To do this it’s important you have a detailed landscape plan that illustrates:

• light fixture and tranformer locations
• specific, calculated cable runs
• locations of all other proposed features and elements

With this information you can safely locate your conduit without fear of running into it later on.

Multiple Conduit Runs

Notice how pipe ends are bent over to insure dirt does not enter.

The colored marking tape tells the story as to which pipe goes where and what it’s for.  Write down the “color-key legend” on your plan.  When the time comes to pull wire through these conduits, you’ll know exactly which conduits do what.

These simple conduit runs can save you headaches, work and your client money if you think creatively and strategically, especially in the early stages of your project.

We actually installed additional conduit runs for speaker wire that would be pulled through in the future for rock speakers.

How have you used conduit in different ways?  Feel free to comment below.

Let me first suggest tell you that you need to measure the elevations (vertical heights) in the area your designing your walk and/or steps.  Grades & pitch can be very deceptive.  Even after 30 years experience I will not “go by eye” on this one. It’s suggested that the maximum slope for walks be 10%.  Or, in other words, 12″ of rise over 10′ of walk.

In my opinion, walks should not exceed a 5% slope (or 12″ of rise over 20′ of walk).  Often it comes down to personal preference.  So if you’re building this walk for someone, make sure they understand what you’re proposing.  More on how to show them your idea(s) in a bit.

In the first picture the walkway seems to be pitched around 12″ over 10′ of walk (or 10%).  The entrance to this walkway (2nd picture) appears to be even steeper.

Now here I am telling you to always measure elevations and I can’t give you the specifics on this walk.  That’s because it’s not my project and I didn’t want to get arrested for trespassing. (I’m losing my sense of adventure.)

With exact elevation measurements you can calculate your different design concepts and compare them to one another.

You can always first consider some “creative” re-grading, but often “steps” are the best way to mitigate a steep walkway.

Seeing Is Believing

Most people have a hard time visualizing things.  I use mock-ups of all kinds to help others and myself really see what’s planned and possible.

I’ll sometimes illustrate an idea for a walkway and/or steps using stakes and a string line.  When set up exactly at the proposed heights, they show the profile of the walk’s surface (pitch) and the risers & treads of the steps.  This let’s the homeowner (and myself) see how it will potentially look.  I find that this simple mock-up always clears up any uncertainty and prevents any design regrets after construction.

Things To Consider When Building Landscape Steps

• Do not compromise on the base for the steps.  If they are masonry steps you should have a concrete footing according to local code.  If they are dry-set steps (stone, cast concrete or timber) you should have a well-compacted aggregate base.  Nothing is worse than steps that “move” over time because of poor base and footing work.
• For landscape steps the riser should be greater than 4″, but no more than 6 ½”.  There are always going to be exceptions, but try to stay within these parameters.
• Here’s a simple formula for calculating the riser height and tread length:  2 (riser) + tread = 26″.   For example, if the riser is going to be 6″, then : 2 (6) + 14 = 26″.   So the tread should be 14″.  Again, use this as a “guideline”.
• Where steps return into the surrounding sloped grade, make sure the step has “finished” sides that are nice to look at.  On the same note, make sure the sloped sides of earth are stabilized to support & conceal the base work for the steps.  Groundcover, grass and even decorative boulders can help with this.

Planning landscape steps and walks really supports the idea that form should follow function.  And yet personal preference always plays a part in the final solution.  What say you?  Feel free to comment.

This could actually be a continuation of my last post on installing flagstone in grass.

While setting the new flagstone path we came across a soggy area of lawn at the bottom of a stone stairway.  The homeowner said this area was usually wet.

Looking the situation over with landscape contractor Dave Kennedy, we determined that the water was “weeping-out” from the gravel footing of the stone steps.

The gravel footing was doing its job of keeping moisture away from the stone stairway construction.  However, because of the grade of the lawn level at the top of the stairs, extra water from run-off was entering the stairway construction.

In effect, the gravel footing was acting like a drainage seepage-pit for this upper lawn water.  The volume of water was too much to naturally drain into the subsoil and was causing this soggy condition at the base of the stairs.

Planning A Solution

Water is an amazing force.  It is powerful and relentless.  With this in mind your solutions should be designed to work with waters’ natural tendencies.

The excess water was draining from the gravel footing successfully.  The solution to the soggy lawn and area was to “intercept” the water at the base of the gravel footing where it was exiting the stairs and divert it.

Excavation for "intercept" drain

The tactic to intercept water and divert it is the core of most drainage solutions.

In this situation 4″ perforated pipe will be used to “intercept” the water, and solid pipe will carry it to a safe, open area.

In the picture to the left Dave’s crew has already trenched from where the water will exit and are now nearing the steps.  As the trench reaches the steps it begins to fill with water.

Water will seek the path of least resistance and the open trench is now that. The piping, when installed, will provide a permanent avenue and relief for the water.

How This Drain Is Put Together

The perforated pipe (with holes) and the solid pipe (w/o holes) are the same size and made of the same material.  In order to use the perforated and solid pipe together we’ll connect the two with a “coupling”.

Perforated drain pipe in gravel & filter fabric

It’s important to note that the bottom of the entire trench has pitch of at least 1/8″ per foot away from the stairs.

Filter fabric is used to line the bottom and sides of the trench in front of the stairs.  A section of perforated drain pipe is laid into the trench and surrounded with 3/8″ gravel.  The fabric insures no silt or soil will enter into this gravel/pipe zone.

Just past the stairs we convert to solid pipe using the coupling.

In the picture to the right you see the filter fabric which has been folded over the gravel.  Just past the stairs the fabric ends – this is where the perforated pipe converts to solid.

The trench with the solid drain pipe is backfilled carefully with earth.  It’s important while backfilling to check that the pipe sits solidly on the bottom of the trench and has pitch.

The solid pipe exits to an open space where the water can drain naturally.  We’re using smaller fieldstones (4 – 6″ dia.) to build around this pipe end.  This rockwork will help secure and protect the end of the pipe.

"Intercept" drain ready for flagstone

The Drains’ Finishing Details

If you’ll remember, before we got involved with this drainage issue Dave’s crew was installing a flagstone path in the lawn.  Well, nothing has changed.

The filter fabric was kept 4″ below finished grade so 2″ of gravel could be added to set the flagstone.

With the flagstone set over the drainage work, the rest of the path went in by the normal process.

All the disturbed areas were finish-graded, sod was placed back including between the flagstone pieces, and you would never know the drainage solution had ever happened.

Every water problem has its own unique characteristics and circumstances.  The solutions will be equally unique, however the concept remains the same.  You’re not stopping the water, you’re “managing” it.

Let’s take another visit to the lake home and landscape project by East Coast Landscape.  In the last post we traveled down natural stone steps alongside a well-built and engineered waterfeature.

We’re now almost to the shoreline and standing on a wide path covered in woodchips.  This path actually travels a roundabout and gradual climb up to the main house.  It serves as both an alternate route for a casual (and longer) stroll, and also provides access for smaller equipment to get closer to the lake.

Combining Natural and Man-Made Elements

It is at this point where the cascading water coming down the rocky slope meets with a natural stream.

Alan Goodell from East Coast Landscape explains how this convergence of the two water features was handled.  At the base of the slope a retention pond was built using more boulders to echo the existing rockery.  Both the natural stream and the constructed waterfall enter into this pond.

While looking like just another natural occurring feature, this engineered pond allows the two water sources to be “managed” properly.  A weir is built below one of the bridges as part of the water management system.  The water flow and level of the pond can be adjusted as needed.

On the other side of the bridge the water exits after flowing over the pond weir.  This last part of the journey for the water before entering the lake is another display of cascades over rockery.

Notice how the plantings between the stone helps to unite the boulder groupings and then visually ties everything in to the surroundings.  I actually had to look closely to distinguish between the natural and man-made parts of the project.

The Beach And Dock Area

From the wood chip path there’s only a short stretch to the lake.  East Coast constructed a wide belgian block ramp that leads to the open-front pavilion.

The belgian block cobble provides a stable, strong surface.  It naturally has a nubby texture for traction and sure-footing.  Belgian block, as a dimensional, thick, heavy paver can conform to the subtleties of the slope.   Also, its gray tones blend well with the surroundings.  I like the way the belgian block pavers combine to meet the flagstone in front of the pavilion.  Different paving elements that connect can be challenging in design.

The pavilion has an open-front and together with the flagstone patio offers a spacious room for all sorts of activities. From the pavilion there are several stone slab-steps to the beach and dock area.

The trek from the house down to the lake was certainly not an effort.  In fact, I wish it had continued!

In design, if you can bring people to a point where they are no longer thinking about the clock and perhaps what else they should be doing, you’ve created something special.

On a project like this it is an appreciation and respect for the surroundings.  The natural conditions are simply too powerful to try and manipulate them in any other way than how they naturally want to be.

Why Use Bamboo?

You’ve probably heard me say it before, “Use the right plant in the right place”.  You want to make choices that ensure long-term success both in beauty and function.

There are numerous considerations when selecting plants, including cost.  This was a key factor in selecting Yellow Groove Bamboo (Phyllostachys aureosulcata).

We wanted screening that would reach 15 – 20′ to give much needed privacy for the new outdoor living space.  The backyard border was 270′ long.  There were some existing large, deciduous trees that were to remain – this meant light shade and root competition.

This bamboo would give us the height relatively quickly, thrive in the varying light conditions, deal with root competition and do this at a reasonable cost.

To deal with the “invasive” character of this bamboo, a barrier would be installed on all sides of the planting area.  I’ll cover that in my next post on this project.

Methods To Prevent Madness

Systems and methods are key to tackling any landscape project, even when doing a basic border planting using one variety of plant.  A disorganized, non-methodical approach adds additional time to the job, and the final outcome usually suffers too.

Dave Kennedy, one of our contributors on LA.com, is installing this bamboo screen.  Dave’s first phase is site prep.  This includes removing all the undesirable plant growth, digging-out the few good plants for transplant,  and rough grading the area.

Dave has a schedule for the “phases” of this job.  He also knows the materials, equipment and labor requirements for each phase.

The first picture shows the compact excavator ripping out the old vegetation.  One approach would be to first cut the tops of the plants and then remove the stumps afterwards.  Dave decides to remove the entire plant in one shot because of the recycling systems he has in place.  Your approach may differ depending on your circumstance and recycling method.

Tactics Depend On Capability

How you approach a job depends a great deal on your capability, certainly in terms of knowledge, but here I’m talking about available resources such as equipment, manpower (and their skill level) and then network connections for materials & services.  The resources available to you should determine the tactics you use to do the job.

Mechanical tree spades make transplanting very efficient.  Without this equipment you might decide that the time and manpower to move these trees is just not worth it.  Capability = Tactic.

This particular tree spade digs a 42″ diameter ball.  For these two evergreens that’s large enough to ensure transplanting success.

The wire baskets are sized to match the particular tree spade’s root ball.  Once the root ball is set into the burlap lined basket, Dave’s guys shave the excess soil off the top with a spade.

The final step before moving the plants into their new locations is to fold the burlap over and “star-tie” the wire baskets closed.

Here’s the previous post for this project. And here’s the next.

Observe and Conceptualize

You probably already have a notion as to what you want or need in your landscape.  And if you’re a designer you’ve probably interviewed the homeowner to understand their desires.  This is important information, but you should not let those wishes (and even requirements) constrain your initial thinking of the site.

Keeping the general goals in mind, especially the functional goals, begin to familiarize yourself with the site.  Taking pictures not only gives you something to refer to when you’re away from the property, but it also forces you to concentrate on the property’s characteristics.

During these initial stages of planning relax about the need to come up with an absolute solution.  Allow yourself the time to think beyond the “want-list”.  For instance, “what do you think the site is asking for”?  When you “conceptualize” freely like this you’re more apt to create solutions beyond the obvious ones.  At the very least you can be content in your final design that you explored the possibilities thoroughly.

Other Features Are Realized

This post continues the coverage of the lakefront home and the beautiful landscape East Coast Landscape Co. created.  My last post on the project showed the drive and some of the front foundation area.

The home sits well above the lake in elevation.  This is often the case on lakefront properties.  As you’d expect, the basic design requirement was to provide everyday access down to the lake.

In the first picture we are three-quarters of the way down to the lake and looking up the rocky slope towards the house.  Although there were some existing rock outcroppings, a good amount of what you see was designed, arranged & installed.The waterfall was engineered and built by East Coast Landscape.  Using the lake as the water source, water is pumped to the top, just under the patio.  There it begins the long descent back down to the lake through carefully arranged rockery.

The elevation change from the house to the lake shore is substantial and therefore, so is the number of steps.  If you think about this trek, you want it to be safe, manageable and enjoyable for everybody – young and old alike.

Steps should be arranged so that landings occur often.  This gives everybody a chance to pause, rest and enjoy the views.

In the second picture above there’s a series of steps.  At the base of this stairway are flagstone stepping stones that expand into a substantial landing area.  The third picture shows the view you have up to the house from this spot.

The hand railings are a safety feature, but also help to give a sense of security, which adds to the enjoyment of the trek.  They are made of iron and were all fabricated right on site.  The iron had to be heated and bent for the handrails to follow the winding steps.  Posts were drilled directly into the stone where necessary.  The brown/bronze color helps to blend the man-made feature with the surroundings.

With the addition of naturalized plantings in many of the nooks and crannies, the entire setting seems as though it has been there all along.  It’s obvious the functional goals were met in this design, but included is a harmony of grades and features that marry the home to the site.

This type of outcome is the result of:

• becoming intimately familiar with the site during the design process
• considering the practical needs (functional goals)
• and then allowing the open-minded thinking that answers the question, ” What is the site asking for?”

I fully appreciate the personal nature of design and the individual approaches we all take.  Feel free to comment with your thoughts and methods to design.  This is great stuff we can all learn from.

Back in June I posted an article that was to start a series on a project by East Coast Landscape.  Alan Goodell, one of the company owners, invited me to this special home on a lake. In the first article we saw how visitors were greeted at the entrance to the long winding drive.

This exceptionally long driveway took a tremendous amount of time and resources to build.  The layout had to wind through terrain that was not very accommodating.  As you’d expect in a woodland surrounding a lake, there were rock outcroppings, large trees and “radically changing” topography.  By combining the use of their heavy excavating equipment and landscape expertise, East Coast built a drive that harmonizes beautifully with the surroundings.

Utilizing the native boulders, they built up and retained areas where the grade had to be raised.  It was critical to make the drive descend in a gradual, consistent way.  Each boulder was placed to resemble the look of existing rock outcroppings so nothing would look man-made.

Plantings were selected and arranged to give the homeowner a “finished look”, but appear as an extension of the woodland.

Subtle, indirect lighting was also installed at points along the way.  Not only does the lighting guide you, but I’m sure it’s also comforting to have on a woodland drive like this.  Lions and tigers and bears…There is no lawn on this homesite, yet look how they introduce neutral expanses of space.  Swaths of different groundcovers are a low maintenance answer when you’re just looking for a neutral cover.  The woody trees and shrubs are chosen and placed carefully to just give enough “weight” where it’s needed.  Not overdone at all.  Notice the mix of textures and the balanced use of deciduous and evergreen.

We could go on and point out the specific design strategies (and I assure you careful thought went into every element), but in the end, “It just looks right”.  Everything just seems to belong, as if it happened naturally.

A native stone was used as natural curbing to further integrate the driveway as it approached the home. This is installed on a concrete footing with motared joints.  A “chip & tar” surface adds to the organic look and just sounds great as you’re pulling up.

The homeowners wanted a garden structure that would echo the style of their home and offer cover for those wanting to get out of the sun.

I suggested they consider the Heritage Pavilion by Dalton Pavilions.  They chose a 14 X 18′ model, but with single columns on the corners.  The 3 column corners are pretty, but take up additional space.

These pavilions are beautifully made and extremely strong.  They are engineered to withstand a 110 mph wind and a snow load of 30 lbs./ square foot.

The strength of this structure begins with 24″ wide sonotube footings that go 42″ below grade.  There are 4 footings – one for each of the corner columns.  Beneath the pavilion will be a wet-laid bluestone patio built on a concrete slab.

How The Patio Integrates With The Footings

In the first picture you see 2 X 4 framing by each sonotube. This precisely forms the four corners of the pavilion’s concrete patio slab.  The slab is poured so it bridges over the footings.

The pavilion has 4 white columns.  These columns are decorative and actually slide over 5 X 5″ steel structural columns.  These steel columns are affixed to the concrete footings with threaded steel rod.  You’ll see this construction in upcoming posts on this project.

New Elevations Begin To Show

I can remember in the early planning stages setting up grade stakes with string lines to illustrate proposed elevations for the new hardscape.  The homeowner was amazed that these features would “sit up” at these indicated heights, and quite frankly, I double-checked my elevation measurements just to be sure.  Elevations can be tricky to “eye-up” at times and for this reason I’m a real fan of grade stakes, string lines and markers set with an instrument.

The main portion of the patio will be done in dry-set brick and will come right up to the wet-laid bluestone patio under the pavilion.  To give definition to the bluestone patio and an elegant segue to the brick, mason contractor Lester Szajna has installed a 12″ bluestone coping as a border.

Here’s the previous post on this project. And here’s the next.

For some of you this may be basic information, but for those who don’t know how to dig a post hole this tidbit could save you some work and frustration.

To your left are the “tools of the trade”.  The 2 go together like a bow and arrow – you need both to get the job done.

The post-hole-digger on the far left is the obvious one. I’ve seen customers at Home Depot buy fence to install and logically they grab a post-hole-digger.  But the steel digging-bar is the companion tool that together with the post-hole-digger makes things happen.

There are a couple of digging-bar types out there.  For general post hole digging I use the one that has the round tamper at one end and the dig blade at the other.

Work The 2 Tools Together

The key concept to understand here is that the digging bar does the hard digging and loosening of the earth, and the post-hole-digger basically scoops out the loose dirt.

Work layer by layer.  Use the blade end of the bar to loosen 3 or 4″ of earth and pry any stones you come across.  Now take the post-hole-digger, scoop out the loose material and rinse and repeat.  I toss the stones to the side as I dig so I’m left with a clean pile of earth to backfill with. Before long you’ll get to the depth you’re looking for.

The round tamper at the other end of the bar is to “tamp” and pack the earth as you backfill around the post you’re setting.  Make sure you do the backfilling and tamping in layers so as to get thorough compaction from the bottom to the top.

Post-hole-digging does not have to be such a nasty job.  Work these 2 tools together to show that hole who’s the boss.

These 2 tools are not expensive and make nice additions to a well-rounded tool collection. In future posts we’ll look at other ways to use these tools to make your work easier.

Engineer For Beauty And Longevity

I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again: “With landscape design you must consider the dynamics and influences of the site on your design.”  I know I bore homeowners to no end when talking about the engineering of their property, but if that aspect is neglected, it’s likely you’ll never have the landscape you’ve dreamed of.

On this project we planned patio areas, which would increase the impervious coverage on the property.  Town code required that we provide seepage pit capacity for the “runoff” from these new impervious surfaces.

After site analysis and gathering  topographic data, it became apparent that water runoff from the upper part of the property could impact some of our new work.  The biggest contributor to this runoff threat was the home’s roof water that just emptied out from leader pipes onto the grade.

After explaining the condition to the homeowner and how cost effective and practical it would be to tackle the issue now, we got the go-ahead.  It was determined that one additional seepage tank would accommodate the roof water.

With the excavator on-site, the adding of the additional tank was pretty straight forward.  Roof water was piped directly into the new seepage pit, and a piece of PVC pipe was stubbed up above grade to accommodate our future connection for the new patio surface water.

Managing water and runoff in a landscape is paramount.  I have renovated too many projects where this fundamental principle was not considered.

Here’s the previous post on this project. And here’s the next.