Comments for LandscapeAdvisor Grow your landscape business and reputation with great work Wed, 24 May 2017 01:42:00 +0000 hourly 1 Comment on Manhattan Euonymus – Prune Selectively by Roger Wed, 24 May 2017 01:42:00 +0000 Melissa,
I’m not familiar with the “brown hairy growth” you’re describing on the euonymus. Could you cut a sample from the plant and bring it to a local garden center or nursery? The more professional garden centers and nurseries usually have at least one knowledgeable “plant-person” on staff that may be able to identify the condition.

Comment on Hunter Solar Sync – Smarter Irrigation by Roger Wed, 24 May 2017 01:35:58 +0000 Hank,
If you look back in the comments to my reply to: Sharon on May 5, 2011 you’ll see I cover the region setting issue — and I’m here in northern NJ so it’s applicable to you in Glen Rock, NJ.

Most of the systems we have out there run 3x a week during the warmer months for the lawn zones. Established planting zones, of course, use considerably less.

I’m not sure about the solar sync going to 110%. My guess is that will not happen when you switch to region 1 (as I discuss in my comment to Sharon).

Comment on Manhattan Euonymus – Prune Selectively by Melissa B Tue, 23 May 2017 14:16:19 +0000 My EM have always been beautiful! Then this Spring they greened up and new sprouts, but there is a horrible brown hairy growth all over the limbs. I have big balls of limbs/vines at the base (because after reading above I know my hubby should not have cut them only from the top). He has now used a chain saw (sigh) to cut down most of the back of the bushes from our porch and I went in with clippers and trimmed out all the dead branches. Since his chain sawing of the back, I did a selective trimming from the top and sides as you suggested in comments above. There is lots of regrowth on the backside chainsaw parts, but the brown stuff is still there.

It has been a rather cool, but really wet spring. And in March we had 80 degree days that probably made the bushes green up too early, because we then had horrible freezing days.

What is the brown stuff? Is it what made parts of bushes die? My hubs wants to cut (chain saw, sigh) the bushes to their bases to get rid of the brown stuff. What do you think we should do.

Comment on Hunter Solar Sync – Smarter Irrigation by Hank Tue, 23 May 2017 03:39:08 +0000 Hi- I just installed the solar sync this May on my pro-c. I live in Glen Rock, NJ which has sandy soil and plan to have the system run 3x per week. I set the solar sync on region 2, 5 with a max run time of 40 minutes/zone. Last year I was watering 2x/week for 60 minutes/zone during the summer but decided to run the same number of minutes spread out over 3 days.
1- do you recommend I switch to region 1?
2- do you recommend I go back to 2 days per week watering and up the max minutes to 60/zone?
3- I did see the solar sync go to 110% runtime this week when we had two abnormally high temp days of 90+. Is that normal for it to adjust run times over 100%?
Thanks for your help.

Comment on How To Install A Flagstone Path In A Lawn by Roger Mon, 22 May 2017 03:05:50 +0000 Sabrina,
The way you describe the area it’s a quarter of a circle. To calculate the square footage of that quarter circle, you would calculate the square footage of a full circle (based on this quarter circle measurement) and then divide that by 4.

Here’s a nice square footage calculator tool online. Click on the “CIRCLE” tab in the navigation bar. Now, just enter the radius (measured in feet). The radius is half a circle — therefore, measure one of the flat sides of your quarter circle area and that’s the radius. When you hit the blue “Calculate” button you’ll see the “Result,” i.e. square footage of the circle. Now, just divide that number by 4 and you’ll have the square footage of your quarter circle area.

In terms of using just sand to set your flagstone: if you’re in an area that does not freeze you should be OK.

Comment on How To Install A Flagstone Path In A Lawn by Sabrina Cherry Sun, 21 May 2017 16:56:51 +0000 Hi Roger I live in Texas and we are creating a porch out of flagstone in front of our front window. I have two questions for you. So imagine a full moon and divide the moon into 4 parts. Take one of those parts and that’s the shape of our area that we want to create this porch. How do we measure this area since it is not equally squared off? Second question is…is it ok to use sand beneath the flagstone? Thanks

Comment on How To Prune Boxwood by Roger Wed, 17 May 2017 13:24:30 +0000 Judith,
Of course it’s difficult to give specific advice without being on-site seeing the plants.

Boxwood will rejuvenate from hard pruning, but I’d go about it differently than using a hedge trimmer exclusively. I’d use a combination of hedge trimmer and hand-pruner.

I’d use the hedge trimmer to do an overall aggressive trimming, but not so aggressive as to expose bare stems. Then, with the hand-pruner I’d begin to thin the plant to get more light and air into the center and lower portions of the plant. This will begin to encourage budding and growth in the interior.

Each season (early spring) you would repeat this strategy. Gradually you can reduce the overall size while removing more older stems and letting more and more light in as the plant produces more growth at the interior.

Here is an excellent article on pruning boxwood and describes the general concept I’m suggesting.

Hope this helps.

Comment on How To Prune Boxwood by Judith Rudge Wed, 17 May 2017 12:11:58 +0000 Hello Roger
We have just taken on a Victorian walled garden in Scotland with about 300 metres plus of overgrown, very old, box hedging that needs renovating and reducing in size to restore it.
I was advised to take a hedge trimmer to it to do the job. I started on a small length of about 20 metres (using shears) and find that the centre of the hedge seems dead and now it looks very ugly. I have stopped doing anything to it until I find out what to do next. The outside of the hedge seems very healthy without gaps and spring growth is coming through very well on all but the top/middle of the trimmed length. Can you advise me of the best way forward? Thank you.

Comment on How To Prune Arborvitae ‘Green Giant’ by Roger Wed, 17 May 2017 02:25:20 +0000 Erik,
Yes, you’ll want to keep lightly pruning to encourage a fuller stronger plant. Eventually, it will likely become impractical (if not impossible) to prune — but at that point you’ll have nice, full, strong trees.

Remember, even just trimming the tips of branches removes the end (apical) bud, which then allows lower, side growth to develop.

Comment on How To Prune Climbing Hydrangea by Roger Wed, 17 May 2017 02:21:41 +0000 Barbara,
I would prune back the plant (now) to make it more compact and manageable.

I used the simple trellis support because I did not want to drill into the brick or its joints to install anchors or other attachment hardware. The aerial roots soon reattached to the brick — and we were back in business. :-)

As your climber starts to grow and reattach itself, try to keep it pruned closer to the wall. You want a stronger, more stout framework for the plant. You can let it get higher/bigger over time, but if not pruned regularly it tends to get longer stems and branches too quickly. This makes for a less strong framework and one likely to come off the wall again.