Comments for LandscapeAdvisor http://www.landscapeadvisor.com Grow your landscape business and reputation with great work Sun, 25 Jun 2017 16:53:27 +0000 hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=4.1.18 Comment on How To Prune Climbing Hydrangea by Roger http://www.landscapeadvisor.com/how-to-prune-climbing-hydrangea/comment-page-3/#comment-438410 Sun, 25 Jun 2017 16:53:27 +0000 http://www.landscapeadvisor.com/?p=5743#comment-438410 Susan,
I would not recommend climbing hydrangea for the obelisk. This climber is too aggressive and will, over time, become to unwieldy — even with diligent pruning. And at that, would likely harm your obelisk.

I would select a less aggressive climber that will be easier to control. A clematis variety perhaps. You can do some research on what climbers are available in your local area.

With regard to the Japanese beetle issue, I’m not aware that they are especially a problem with climbing hydrangea — I guess they could be. There are traps that people hang in their yards to capture these pests, but I understand these traps can do the opposite (of what you want) and attract more beetles into the area. I wish I could be more helpful on this matter.

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Comment on How To Prune Climbing Hydrangea by Roger http://www.landscapeadvisor.com/how-to-prune-climbing-hydrangea/comment-page-3/#comment-438409 Sun, 25 Jun 2017 16:38:26 +0000 http://www.landscapeadvisor.com/?p=5743#comment-438409 Ann,
I would not recommend growing the climbing hydrangea to hide the utility pipe. Yes, it will grow over the cable and wires too. It’s way too aggressive.

Planting by the rock wall sounds like a great idea. Yes, it will grow on the wall and trail horizontally. I don’t think it will displace any stones. However, if the wall is not sturdy and fitted and made with substantial stones, it could potentially move some of the loose, smaller stones.

As you’d expect, you’ll need to monitor and prune the plant a bit — and even guide/train it to do exactly what you envision.

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Comment on How To Prune Climbing Hydrangea by Roger http://www.landscapeadvisor.com/how-to-prune-climbing-hydrangea/comment-page-3/#comment-438408 Sun, 25 Jun 2017 16:30:39 +0000 http://www.landscapeadvisor.com/?p=5743#comment-438408 Rebecca,
Typically the climbing hydrangea is full with branches and leaves from the ground up. But there’s no reason you can’t either contain that growth and foliage near the base, or gradually expose the base stems and trunk by pruning away that growth. These climbers are tough and “malleable”. :-)

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Comment on Belgian Block Curbing – Still Installed The Old Way by Roger http://www.landscapeadvisor.com/belgian-block-curbing-still-installed-the-old-way/comment-page-1/#comment-438407 Sun, 25 Jun 2017 16:24:43 +0000 http://www.landscapeadvisor.com/2008/07/15/belgian-block-curbing-still-done-the-old-way/#comment-438407 Mike,
I’m not sure of the current condition of your Belgian block apron and how it was constructed, i.e. what’s underneath. But I’ll briefly explain how our contractor joints the aprons on our jobs.

The Belgian block is laid with a relatively dry mortar mix on a concrete slab. Then, a very wet (bordering on liquid-like) mortar mix is “poured” in between the joints so it settles about 1″ below where we want the final joint height. After this lower mortar joint cures, a polymeric joint sand is used to bring the finished joint to the proper height.

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Comment on How To Prune Climbing Hydrangea by Roger http://www.landscapeadvisor.com/how-to-prune-climbing-hydrangea/comment-page-3/#comment-438406 Sun, 25 Jun 2017 16:05:45 +0000 http://www.landscapeadvisor.com/?p=5743#comment-438406 Carlene,
Without being on-site and seeing the climbing hydrangea and the surrounding conditions, it’s hard to give an opinion as to why the plant is struggling. I do think your idea to prune it way back is a good tactic.

Typically a hard pruning like that is best in the early spring. But considering the condition of the plant I’d prune it back now. Keep the soil moist — not wet. And you could use a liquid fertilizer for plants that prefer slightly acidic soil.

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Comment on How To Prune Arborvitae ‘Green Giant’ by Roger http://www.landscapeadvisor.com/how-to-prune-arborvitae-green-giant/comment-page-2/#comment-438405 Sun, 25 Jun 2017 15:26:50 +0000 http://www.landscapeadvisor.com/?p=2107#comment-438405 Tina,
To really give advice on whether your arborvitae can be transplanted I’d have to see the situation. Variables such as: access, proximity to the house, other plants and other structures, etc. come into play.

Plants of all types and sizes are transplanted regularly, but all the variables have to be considered. And at that, even when transplanting is possible, the cost has to be considered. Sometimes the cost exceeds the value of the plant.

I would suggest getting a few opinions and estimates from “experienced” plants-people in your area. On this page on my website are articles with more information on transplanting.

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Comment on Arborvitae ‘Emerald Green’ – Proper Plant Use by Roger http://www.landscapeadvisor.com/proper-plant-use-arborvitae-emerald-green/comment-page-1/#comment-438404 Sun, 25 Jun 2017 15:04:51 +0000 http://www.landscapeadvisor.com/2008/06/24/proper-plant-use-arborvitae-emerald-green/#comment-438404 Julie,
If you think long-term when planting, you’ll want to plant the ‘Emerald Green’ arborvitae a bit further from the pool decking (if possible). If measuring from the edge of the pool deck, I would plant the “centers” of the new arbs no closer than 3′. Now the plant has room to grow naturally without hard pruning in the future. The beauty of this plant is its natural form where the varying colors and textures of the foliage can develop over age. If they’re trimmed to control size or “shape,” all that beauty is lost.

With regard to your concern for the plumbing beneath the deck, I don’t think the arbs will pose a problem. However, I can’t say for sure because I don’t know how the pool plumbing was run.
Pool plumbing typically runs close to the walls of the pool, but there are circumstances where it can travel further away. The arbs don’t have an aggressive root system, rather it tends to be more fibrous.

I wish I could be more definitive with my advice, but as you can see there are some variables and uncertainties here.

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Comment on How To Prune Boxwood by Roger http://www.landscapeadvisor.com/how-to-prune-boxwood/comment-page-2/#comment-438308 Sun, 25 Jun 2017 03:50:08 +0000 http://www.landscapeadvisor.com/?p=3061#comment-438308 Jo,
There are quite a few different varieties of boxwood and their “natural” growing habit/shape can be different depending upon the variety. In turn, not all boxwood can be shaped as “gumdrops”. :-) Do you know which type of boxwood you have? If you do, then do a Google search for that particular plant and view the images to see how they naturally grow.

It’s now June, and depending on where you are it may be too hot to prune now. I’d wait till late summer/early fall and do a light trimming. Then, in early spring (2018) I’d prune again — and this time of year you can be more aggressive with your cuts.

As far as the process goes, follow the tips and suggestions in the article. If you feel you need even more information, here’s an excellent article on boxwood pruning.

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Comment on How To Prune Climbing Hydrangea by Susan http://www.landscapeadvisor.com/how-to-prune-climbing-hydrangea/comment-page-3/#comment-438226 Sat, 24 Jun 2017 22:54:04 +0000 http://www.landscapeadvisor.com/?p=5743#comment-438226 Oops, I should clarify that there is 6.5 feet of vertical space inside the obelisk after installation, and the inside diameter of its rings is 14.5 inches. This is a relatively large and sturdy structure.

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Comment on How To Prune Climbing Hydrangea by Susan http://www.landscapeadvisor.com/how-to-prune-climbing-hydrangea/comment-page-3/#comment-438213 Sat, 24 Jun 2017 22:16:30 +0000 http://www.landscapeadvisor.com/?p=5743#comment-438213 Roger, I’m in zone 6 and just planted an hydrangea anomala petiolaris in the center of a metal 6.5 foot obelisk in dappled shade. The obelisk is sunk 18 inches in ground and the soil is amended clay. I was told by someone at the garden center that this vine would grow to about 8 feet and I stupidly did not read the label to verify.

Now I realize that it can get to 80 feet! My question: Will it be relatively easy to keep it under control in the center of my obelisk under the conditions I mentioned? I’m frequently out in my garden and like tending plants so regular pruning is not a big deal to me, but I wonder if constant pruning of this plant will weaken it over time.

Secondly, I’ve read it’s attractive to Japanese beetles. How should I fend them off? Thanks in advance for your reply.

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