How To Prune Boxwood

How-To's, Landscape Care · Written by Roger


Boxwood happens to be one of the most common plants around, especially if you consider all the varieties there are.  I certainly don’t mean common in a negative sense.  Boxwood and all its varieties often serve as the backbone to many beautiful (and functional) gardens.

To Shear or Not To ShearSheared boxwood before

With Boxwood most people instinctively shear the plant.  The vision most of us have is one of perfectly shaped forms.  It definitely is at the top of the list when it comes to formal gardens and topiary.

I’d like to suggest two circumstances when “selective” pruning might be the alternative to shearing.

  1. when boxwood is used in “natural, informal gardens”.
  2. when boxwood starts to decline because of too dense branching at the outer ends of the main stems.

Boxwood used in natural, informal gardens.

It’s such a reliable, solid performer; I often use boxwood in natural settings.  In these gardens the boxwood are pruned selectively by hand to encourage the plant to stay full and strong while keeping a soft, mounded shape.

Dense, outer growth causes decline.

Overtime a constantly sheared (and formal) boxwood can start to decline in health.  This could be because of a number of conditions, e.g. poor internal air circulation that could promote disease or insect infestation.  The fact is plants naturally are not conditioned to have all their foliage concentrated just on the outer portion of the branches.

To improve or maintain the health of a sheared plant, you can selectively prune out a portion of the dense, outer growth.  If done right this will allow more light and air into the interior without causing a dramatic change in the look of the plant.

sheared boxwood afterTopiary Boxwood

I’d like to focus on shearing because this is by far the most common way people prune boxwood.

These first 2 pictures show the before and after of a Boxwood ‘Wintergem’ that was sheared.

This is a recently planted boxwood that was sized at 24 – 30″.   At this young stage you have the perfect opportunity to set the proper shape for the future of this plant.  Although you can often correct misshaped plants, it’s not easy and usually takes 2 to 3 seasons of growth to see improvement.

The fundamental rule in shaping a plant is wider at the base and taper towards the top.  There are 2 main reasons for this:

  1. It’s healthier for the plant because light is better distributed to the foliage.
  2. Aesthetically it’s more attractive and logical that the plant be wider at the base.  You want the plant to appear as though it’s connected and well-anchored to the ground.

In the sketch below I give a couple of typical shapes you would shear plants both the “right” and “wrong” way.

sheared plants right and wrongIt is not easy to develop these proper shapes with wider bases.  Plants naturally grow a little weaker and thinner towards the bottom.  Also, it’s been my experience that most people want to cut an equal amount off the plant all over.  That doesn’t work!

If you look at the first picture of the unsheared boxwood, notice how the greater amount of growth is concentrated towards the top.  The bottom and lower sides naturally have less growth.  Now look at the plant sheared in the 2nd picture.  The lower portion of the plant was not touched by the shears.

handshearsI still happen to use a pair of hand shears for trimming topiary plants.

You should develop a system or pattern to how you shear a plant, get good at it, and then repeat that pattern from plant to plant.

I shear plants in a clock-wise direction.  I imagine the proper line the shrub should have and follow it.  Regardless of how much or how little foliage there is, stay on that imaginary line. If you need a little help and guidance, for the straight lines take a length of wood like a 1 X 2″ (or anything like that).  If you just hold it up once in a while to show the line you’re trying to create, it can really help guide you.

gas hedge trimmerYou more often see power hedge trimmers today for shearing topiary plants.  They are powerful and quick.  If kept sharp and in skilled hands they can do some nice work very productively. In unskilled hands…I’d rather not talk about it.

When to shear plants.

Generally it’s best to let the new growth finish and “harden off” a bit before shearing.  From a practical sense the plant should not grow much (if at all) after that and the shape should stay nice until the following growth season.

If you happen to trim early, occasionally I have seen new, soft growth scorch a bit if the weather got hot right after the shearing.

On some properties plants might be sheared twice because the owner does not want to wait for the growth stage to completely finish.  So it’s done perhaps midway during growth and then again when it’s finally finished.

These are the main considerations when pruning boxwood and many of these points apply to other plants as well.  However, it’s so important you consider each plant and their “specific” preferences and requirements.  Like so many things, the skill starts with the right knowledge.

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    146 Responses to “How To Prune Boxwood”

    1. Peggy Says:

      It has to be that old, as the old farmhouse started out as a half house in 1767, then raised to a full two story.
      What is the best way to send a photo?


    2. Roger Says:

      The best way to send a photo is in an email to me. Here’s my email address:

      Perhaps I shouldn’t presume you know how to do that. Please let me know.

    3. Rose Says:

      Hi, Roger!
      Which do you prefer best, green mountain boxwood or winter gem boxwood?
      I noticed that the winter gems foliage are darker and shinier than the green mountains,
      and can boxwoods stand partially shaded areas?

    4. Roger Says:

      Green Mountain Boxwood and Wintergem Boxwood are different in growth habit too.

      Green Mountain will have a slightly more upright habit, while Wintergem will grow more mounded (height and width similar).

      Both will take partial shade, but experience has shown me that the more light the better.

    5. cindy Says:

      Hi Roger,
      Ive just purchased two winter gem boxwoods from Menards and the tag on these plants said they get 2 ft tall by 2 ft wide. I wanted to be sure and so googled and now I have no clue because each website says something different.If they do indeed get bigger than what the tag says, is there a way to keep them at that size? These are going to be close to my walkway and so I cant have them big. Ive already regrettably had to pull out two different shrubs that were there and it about broke my heart. Poor little babies grew so well for me…and oh boy did they grow ! Couldnt prune those types.

    6. Roger Says:

      I know what you’re saying about varying information, particularly with plants that are one of many cultivars under a genus. The botanical name for this plant should read: Buxus microphylla ‘Winter Gem’.

      There’s so much opportunity to have variations, mis-labeling or incorrect labeling. It’s just not an exact thing, especially when you’re trying to fit a plant to such a “limited” space.

      In my experience, ‘Winter Gem’ gets larger. I’d say 4’x4′ is more realistic.

      Have you considered Dwarf Boxwood (Buxus sempervirens ‘Suffruticosa’)?

    7. Cindy Says:

      Wow. Thanks for the quick reply. It’s so rare these days.
      Yes, I did consider dwarf boxwood. That was my intention when I was looking for an evergreen for that spot. The tag does call it by its proper name, but says 2×2, so I thought it was somewhat of a dwarf. I dont know weather to take them back or plant them and prune heavily to keep them the proper size. I have a little bit more room to play with than 2 ft, but definitely dont want anything over 3 ft. Maybe Ill just bonzai the heck out of them and hope they survive the drastic cuts ? Decisions decisions. Wish I understood more about pruning.

    8. Sonja Says:

      Hello All,

      I just got a wonderful new position to work in. I’m responsible for a wedding venue and super excite. It includes a little pond and lots and lots of plants of course.

      The formal part is the boxwood. So here my question, I have 26 boxwood bushes and I’d like to shape them into balls. Is there such a thing as a form for that so that they will all look alike?

      Thanks for your help!

    9. Roger Says:

      Congrats on the new job. It’s so great you’re taking the time and interest to research the right way to do things.

      First off, what shape are the boxwood currently in? If they have been shaped differently over a period of time, you’ll need to proceed carefully (if at all).

      Realize that beneath the foliage will be stems and branches which form the “interior” framework for the current shape. If you trim/cut too aggressively into that interior branching it could look terrible and possibly not recover too well or too quickly.

      If you’d like to email me a picture of the boxwood, perhaps I could give you more definite advice on how (or if) to proceed.

    10. Bonnie Says:

      All my boxwood have been done from cuttings from one plant over the years.
      This April and May were so dry and the fact that my garden was on tour in June meant I did not do my usual cut back….I knew this winter was tough and that there would be die-back under when I cut them.

      I use a power cutter, as I have many boxwood. I then go back and cut out some “lace” holes with a hand clipper, I was told this is good for the plant.

      It is now July….so do I just leave all and cut early NEXT spring? Or can I cut them now? Thanks, Bonnie

    11. Roger Says:

      We’ll do a lot of our shrub pruning through the summer, including boxwood.

      I’d suggest you do a light trimming with the power shears and then “selectively” thin out some of the branching for the plant-health benefits of more light and air circulation. You mentioned “lace” holes — I imagine you’re referring to the thinning-out cuts I just mentioned. This is such a good practice you’ve been following.

      Here’s an article I wrote about Pruning Big Boxwood that talks a bit about this trimming/pruning strategy.

    12. Carleen Says:

      I’ve noticed a strong odor where our winter gem boxwoods are planted. It smells like cat urine. Other Internet sources have stated that the odor could be from our boxwoods. These are right under our living/dining room windows. Before I start throwing down cayenne pepper or moth balls to deter the few neighborhood cats, do these particular boxwoods throw off that type of smell? Thanks.

    13. Roger Says:

      Normally, the bad smell of boxwood is associated with Common Boxwood (Buxus sempervirens). Winter Gem is a cultivar of Buxus microphylla koreana. And I personally have not experienced the smell with Winter Gem.

      I guess it’s time to get the moth balls and cayenne pepper out. :-)

    14. Carleen Says:

      Thanks Roger for the quick reply. I guess it’s off to Walmart! I’m glad it wasn’t the boxwood since this is the 3rd year that they are in and they are gorgeous.

    15. Laura Bilger Says:

      I have 4 year old little leaf boxwood that I have only lightly pruned and never shaped. Now they are big enough, I would like to shape them. When would be the best time to start shaping the boxwood?

    16. Roger Says:

      Now is the time we do our “general” trimming work, i.e. mid to late summer. And boxwood would be included.

      If I’m doing a more severe cut-back to renovate the boxwood, I’ll do that in the spring.

    17. Rose Says:

      Hi, Roger!

      I have dwarf boxwoods and winter gem boxwood, what is the best fertilizers for boxwoods and how often
      should I apply it

    18. Roger Says:

      Hi Rose,
      I would use a general, organic fertilizer for the boxwood like Espoma’s Plant-tone.

      Once a year would be fine, and early spring would be a good time.

    19. Kathryn Says:

      I would like to plant boxwood in planters about 5ft long, 3 feet wide and 2 ft high. The first question is whether they could thrive in a planter of that depth. The second is whether there is a variety that would grow about 2 or 3 ft high (or could be trimmed to that height) and that could be kept to a depth that would allow me to plant annuals in front. I would like to create a year-round visual barrier, but also have seasonal color. Do you have a recommendation for a suitable variety of boxwood? I have yet to order the planters, so I can adjust the size if needed. Thank you very much.

    20. Roger Says:

      We plant boxwood in planters quite often. After all the years of observing how they perform, I look at it (and advise my clients) that its really temporary. Eventually the evergreen succumbs to the years of being confined to the planter. After all, like all woody plants its natural life is “in the ground”. But you will get plenty of years of enjoyment and function from the boxwood in the planter.

      In terms of the particular boxwood variety to choose, I’m going to suggest you download the “Boxwood Guide” on This boxwood nursery put together this guide with many of the varieties used today. It’s so informative and helpful I ordered the hardcopy version, which I refer to all the time. This guide will give you all the information (mature size, form, etc.) that you’ll need to pick those that will work for you. Also, after picking those that might work, the next thing is availability. You’ll have to call around to nurseries in your area, but at least you’ll have the accurate names of the varieties.

      Hope this helps.

    21. Elizabeth Says:

      I have two large, old boxwoods which flank my wide front steps on the house I have lived in for 35 years. They have occasionally been trimmed, but not for many years now, and it shows. They are about 8 feet tall, and nearly that wide as well, and very “au natural” in their appearance.

      Is there a way to trim and shape them, after this much benign neglect? I think I would like to keep most of the height, but would like to diminish the width to about 4 to 5 feet, and give them a more defined shape–either conical, or clearly rectangular. Is this even possible? If so, is this a several-growing season project? The area they are in is very shady, with filtered sun only a couple of hours a day in summer. I live in Zone 5.

    22. Roger Says:

      You could begin the process of reducing the width of your 35 year old boxwood, but it would be a process over several years.

      Each early spring you would have to selectively prune the sides. This article on pruning large boxwood may help.

      Your annual cuts should focus on the heavier, woody, side branches. Go back into the body of the plant and make your cut there. At the same time be conscious of leaving some of the younger foliage & branching in that area to help disguise those stronger cuts. This annual pruning should allow more light into the body of the plant and encourage it to bud further in. At the same time you’re reducing/eliminating the thicker branches that extend to the extreme outside.

      I know this is hard to understand — as it’s hard to explain. :-) Honestly, it does take experience to do something like this. But I don’t want to discourage you either. If you give it a go just start a bit conservatively. Perhaps you’ll gain more confidence with your cuts as you see the plant’s reaction year to year.

    23. Diane Says:


      I live in KY and have 16 year boxwoods that have not been trimmed for a couple of years.

      When is the best time to prune and how should I prune them?


    24. Roger Says:

      We’re doing general pruning on boxwood now and will continue through August. If you’re planning to doing aggressive cuts to renovate the plant, that type of pruning would be done in early spring.

      Check out this article on Pruning Big Boxwood to see how I recommend to prune boxwood.

    25. JT Says:

      Hi Roger,

      Nice article! Thanks!

      I just moved into a house this late in summer. The yews were old, scraggly and half dead. We had them professionally removed. I was lucky to find 6 little cone shaped Green Mountain Boxwoods to replace the yews. They are about 18″ tall and somewhat dense. We would like to keep two of them in the cone shape (flanking our entry to the porch) and the other four boxwoods we would like to trim into spheres, Would it be going against their natural growth habit to make them into spheres? Would it lead to bad results? How soon could I start the trimming process after planting?

      Thanks for any advice,

    26. Roger Says:

      Although Green Mountain Boxwood is classified as an upright conical form, you can train yours both in a “cone shape” as well as a mounded/sphere shape.

      It’s all about the trimming.

      Since your young plants are already somewhat conical, those will be easy to continue in that shape.

      For those you’d like more sphere-like, simply begin to round the tops. I would not be too aggressive with rounding the top. Basically you’re stunting the dominant growth at the top and encouraging (and allowing) more side growth. This will be an on-going process from year to year. But after 2 to 3 years the width of the plant will increase and become more equal to the height, and more “sphere-like”.

      And no matter if the shape is conical or rounded, always remember to trim so the base of the plant is wider — just like I illustrate in the sketch.

    27. JB Says:

      I have wintergem and green mountain boxwood intertwined in half knots. Planted 4 years ago. Zone 5. I have just trimmed them but have never fertilized them. Is August a good or bad time to fertilize? when is the optimum time to fertilize?

      I also lost a couple of bushes in the row and need to plant a new one. Will that be easy? Will that damage to roots of the neighboring plants?

      Thank you

    28. Roger Says:

      I would fertilize in the early spring.

      If you’re replacing dead plants, I’d imagine you’ll be removing the stump(s). Boxwood have very fibrous root systems and I don’t think you’ll do much, if any harm digging to plant the new one(s). Early fall would be a good time for that — spring would be better because the new plant would not have the winter to contend with.

    29. Gina Says:

      I have boxwoods that will have been planted a year this October. They are round in shape, and I’d like to keep them that shape and about the size that they are. I live in Kentucky. Is it too late to prune them? They have new growth that looks bad. Thanks!

    30. Roger Says:

      It would be fine to trim your boxwood now.
      We’re still trimming on some jobs too. :-)

    31. Jamie Says:

      We missed trimming our boxwood bushes (1 yr since bought) and our boxwood hedge (8 -10 yrs) and it’s now suddenly gotten cold. Tonight is down in 30s. There will be a few warm days coming soon (65-70 degrees) but generally it’s getting cold heading towards November (50s during day and 30s at night). Is it too late to trim them? I don’t want them to go into shock or not heal or grow properly. Thank you in advance!

    32. Roger Says:

      If you can, I’d wait until spring to trim the boxwood.

      You could stimulate new growth, which would not be good. And also, there are stored carbohydrates in the foliage, which is stored food for the plant.

    33. tina Says:

      I would like a boxwood hedge that is 4′ high but only 1′ wide. Should I choose a columnar boxwood, like Green Tower? I’m worried if I choose something, like winter gem, that trimming it to a 1′ width would kill it. Thoughts?

    34. Roger Says:

      I have not used Green Tower, but looking it up it does claim to stay rather narrow.

      The descriptions I’ve read also claim it can get 9′ tall. Even at that, I do think it would be possible to keep in in the 4′ range with diligent pruning.

      Sounds like a good choice for what you want to do. Good luck — and I tip my hat to your research and planning.

    35. Melissa Hansen Says:

      Hi, I live in Ocean City, NJ. I currently have 5 dwarf boxwood plants along my front landscaping. We experienced some severe flooding this January where the plants were under water for a couple days. One is obviously dead. The other 4 have yellow leaves that fall off when I brush them but have green growth on the inside of the plant. I’m not sure if I should prune off the yellow leaves, exposing the inside green or just leave them alone. Do you have any suggestions?
      Thank you.

    36. Roger Says:

      I would give the plants a bit more time this spring to push any new growth. By early May the plants should clearly show what’s “live ” and what’s not. You can then safely cut-back and prune-out deadwood to live points on the plant.

    37. Sharyn Klatt Says:

      My husband became impatient today and cut down( to about 3 ft above the ground )a 58 year old boxwood hedge that was 15 ft long with tiny leaves appearing. Will it die this year?

    38. Roger Says:

      Boxwood is capable of rejuvenating itself after being cut back severely. In fact, it’s actually a tactic to revive an old, overgrown plant.

      Of course there’s no guarantee as to how thoroughly it will rejuvenate. And this regrowth typically takes at least two growing seasons — so patience is needed.

      Also, I’d give them a feeding of Espoma Plant-tone this spring to help the process along.

    39. Jim Says:

      I have a 32 year old korean boxwood plant that borders our approach walk. It is a hedge consisting of 12 very mature plants. Over the years a couple of things have happened. First it has gotten rather large and is now overhanging both the sidewalk and the driveway. Second, animals have used it for a winter home over the years and love to chew on the lower branches which leads to sizeable holes in some sections.

      My question is can I cut this way back say to the size of a basketball and let it restart? It is so dense that while it still presents an attractive foliage, the inner branches are completely bare due to the lack of sunlight.

      Will it regrow if I cut it back?

    40. Roger Says:

      Over the years I’ve cut back 2 or 3 American boxwood (Buxus sempervirens) to rejuvenate them. They did rejuvenate from the base. I don’t know that Korean boxwood (Buxus microphylla koreana) would react the same.

      You can certainly begin to reduce the size by systematically thinning the plants. This is a long-term strategy, but certainly a safer one. I found this article from The Pruning School, which describes the process very well.

    41. ronda Says:

      Hello, I have a young (3 year old) row of Green Mountain boxwoods that have individual shoots of growth sometimes 1-2 foot high above the main bulk of the bushes. I would like the plants to grow as tall as possible but find this uneven growth unattractive. However, I am willing to leave the shoots if you think this is the best way to achieve full size quicker. Would you kindly advise as to which is better?
      Also, I am trying create a tall hedge of Needlepoint holly and am not sure if I should lightly prune sides AND top to stimulate more growth or should I not cut any from the top to achieve maximum height the quickest?
      I appreciate the work you put in to helping the layman understand more about the proper way to do things. Thanks!

    42. Roger Says:

      For the boxwood I would prune them to some degree. This pruning will encourage the plant to develop stronger stems. It will also “tell the plant” to push growth from lateral buds below the branch ends, which makes the plant fuller. Just removing the branch ends causes these beneficial results.

      For the holly I’d prune the top slightly, as well as any “wayward” branch ends growing beyond the general shape of the plant. The beauty here, as with most plants, is the natural, softer look — and not the tight, formal look. The holly is trying to get taller quickly. By tip-pruning the top it does just like I mentioned above re: boxwood, i.e. stronger stems and fuller plant. I get that you want maximum height ASAP, but just tip-pruning will allow most of the growth to remain.

      I’m so glad you’re enjoying my articles. It does my heart good to see folks learning how to take care of their landscapes properly.

    43. Dawn Says:


      First, thank you for posting such helpful information and taking the time to answer each post. Wow!

      I have a row of 22 Green Gems (18 inches) right in front of a row Green Mountain boxwood. All planted three summers ago. We wanted to keep the gems rounded in shape but I think they are planted way too close for that (only about 5 inches apart). A landscape service suggested moving every other one or let them grow into a hedge as well. If we do remove every other one, this would leave about 24 inches between each gem. It might look odd at first since there will be so much space between. We do want the Mountains to grow into a hedge. We think this will be more interesting than two rows of hedges. Can you tell me if this spacing is good? I also want to get the gems to look like your drawing above with the bottom foliage close to the ground. Right now they look a bit like a lollipop as I can see the stem. Is there a way to get the bottom of the plant fuller to look more natural? Again, thanks for your great info!

    44. Roger Says:

      Also, how close are the ‘Green Gems’ to the ‘Green Mountain’? Are you concerned about them growing together?

      Moving every other ‘Green Gem’ sounds like a practical solution — and they’ll fill out nicely after that. To get them to fill in at the bottom (over time) simply continue to shape the tops and upper crown appropriately, and avoid going in at the bottom. Follow an imaginary line as you would like to see them shaped. By consistently shearing the upper portion of the plant, the lower portion will eventually fill in and catch up. :-)

    45. Kiersten Says:

      Hi Roger,
      I’m in Washington state and we planted a row of boxwood in our backyard in June. We are aiming for a couple foot hedge as an end result. Should I wait to prune until next spring or do you recommend pruning a bit in August to promote growth? They get full sun (when it’s actually sunny) and are on a drip irrigation system if this has any impact on what to do.

    46. Roger Says:

      Kudos for using drip irrigation on the boxwood. Not only is drip irrigation very efficient, but you also help avoid disease issues with boxwood by not watering the foliage each time.

      In terms of pruning, I’d give them a light pruning just to encourage lateral (side) growth for a fuller, stronger plant.

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