How To Prune Euonymus ‘Emerald Gaiety and E. Gold’

How-To's, Landscape Care · Written by Roger


euonymus emerald gaietyEuonymus ‘Emerald Gaiety’ and ‘Emerald Gold’ are 2 very common shrubs.  In many ways the two are similar in form.  You’ll often see both used as a low, mounded shrub either at the front of a garden or as an area groundcover.

Euonymus ‘Emerald Gaiety’ has the distinct capability to climb when planted next to a structure.

In this first picture is ‘Emerald Gaiety’ and further down the stone wall   is ‘Emerald Gold’.

The loose, straggley growth on top is typical and perhaps in a larger open space this “wildness” would be OK.  For example, used on a slope as a groundcover this “rambling” habit would be great.

However, in other gardens  you may want to prune for a neater look.  In this situation the Euonymus ‘Emerald Gaiety’ is overpowering the azalea behind it.  Let’s bring it back to scale, but keep that natural form.

How To Prune

As always, the best method of pruning any plant to maintain a “natural” appearance is to prune “selectively” – that is, by hand, single cuts with hand pruners.

Some of you are probably saying, “Are you kidding, I have too many to prune selectively”.  I hear you.  There’s a point of practicality where you have to make a judgement call.  In this case it’s not the end of the world if you shear the plants to make a monstrous task more doable.

These next 2 pictures show selective pruning on the Euonymus ‘Emerald Gold’.  I pruned the ‘Emerald Gaiety’ the same way.

Select the longest growth that extends beyond the main body of the plant and follow it down into the plant.  There, among the denser growth make your cut just above a leaf or lateral branch.

This last picture shows the Euonymus ‘Emerald Gaiety’ after it was pruned selectively. Notice how the “natural” form was maintained, but the plant is neater and more in scale with the azalea behind it.euonymus 'emerald gaiety'

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    124 Responses to “How To Prune Euonymus ‘Emerald Gaiety and E. Gold’”

    1. Roger Says:

      I live in NJ too and I’m seeing winter damage on many broadleaf evergreens. Last winter we had similar damage.

      Whether or not they’ll recover, re-bud and push new growth depends on the extent of the winter damage. In other words, if damage goes beyond the leaves and into the stems the plant will not recover at those points.

      You’ll need to wait and see (into spring) if and where the plant is showing signs of new buds. If new buds appear further down the stems, but not towards the tips, simply cut back to those “living” points, i.e. just above the first new bud.

    2. Theresa Says:

      Thanks so much for your quick response. I will take your advice and see what happens in the spring.

    3. Gail Braun Says:

      I have a Emerald Gaiety and the leaves did not fall off through the winter. Do I cut it down or leave the old leaves and branches on? Will the new buds start with all last years leaves on?
      Thank you

    4. Roger Says:

      Emerald Gaiety is an evergreen, so it’s good the leaves are still on. If the plant looks OK, and it sounds like it is, simply let it be. New buds should form throughout the plant this spring (among the existing leaves) and give a new flush of growth.

    5. Nick Says:

      What is the best way to cut back a huge area of winter creeper ground cover?

    6. Roger Says:

      When you say “cut back” are you wanting to eliminate it from an area that it’s invading?

      If so, there are two approaches you could take.

      The first one I practice on my property. I have wintercreeper along a border planting that continually wants to invade further into the lawn area. To stop this expansion, every time I cut the grass I deliberately let the mower go over into the edge of the oncoming wintercreeper. If I sense the wintercreeper is “winning more lawn area,” I let the mower overlap further into the groundcover. This constant, low cutting (mower height) discourages the plant from expanding.

      The other approach would be to physically remove the invading plant — roots and all. As it spreads the running stems are rooting into the ground. So you would establish the point (or line) you want to cut back to and start removing the foliage, stems and roots from there.

      Wintercreeper will continually want to reclaim that space. So you’ll need to have a steady method of containment, like with the lawn mower, to keep the plant in-check. Even a with a physical border like brick or plastic edging, wintercreeper will eventually grow over it.

    7. karie Says:

      My euonymus gold isn’t looking so good this spring. It only has a few greens on the bottom of the plant. The rest is dry branches. Should I cut right back to the base of the plant? If so there will not be much left to it. But hoping it will bud. Any advice? Thank you.

    8. Roger Says:

      You’re doing the right thing, i.e. pruning out any of the deadwood.

      You could fertilize the plant to help it along. And, of course, make sure it gets watered occasionally. Not too much though – euonymus do not like it wet.

      I think it will recover. The fact that it’s budding is a good sign.

    9. Christine Says:

      Hi Roger,

      I have 4 large euonymus plants climbing up trellis, used as a privacy screen. The NJ winter was not kind to them this year and I found a lot of small branches in the inner part of the plant died. The plant seems to be coming back, but much of the new buds and leaves are at the end of the branches, so the plant is looking quite leggy. Is there anything I can do to stimulate new growth more towards the inner part of the plant, rather than the ends?

      Thank you!

    10. Roger Says:

      It’s still early, and the plant will continue to recover.

      Later on in the season, if the plant still looks thin, you could selectively tip prune the longer shoots throughout the plant. I know, that’s a big job!. :-) You can always do it in stages; a little bit at a time. As you might expect, the plant will then direct energy to lower and lateral shoots.

    11. Jean Says:

      When is the best time to prune euonymous?

    12. Roger Says:

      I would prune euonymus in mid to late spring, especially if I was making aggressive cuts to reduce the size of the plant or renovate it.

      For general maintenance and light pruning, we’ll do that now, i.e. mid to late summer.

    13. Sharon Says:

      I planted a little emerald gaity in my front yard in a soil that has a lot of clay. We may have over watered in an attempt to help establish it. Now the leaves are over 50% dead. Is there a way to rescue this poor plant?

    14. Roger Says:

      If it is over-watering, and it sounds like it is, you’ll want to raise the plant out of the wet conditions — maybe one third out of the ground. Use available mulch or top soil (that drains well) to mound around the exposed root-ball.

      It’s never a guaranteed thing to reverse damage from over-watering or too wet ground. This condition deprives the root system of oxygen.

      Elevating the euonymus out of this wet, clay ground will give it the best chance of recovery. It’s OK to moisten the surrounding top soil or mulch you’ve mounded around the root-ball. But also let it dry out once in awhile, i.e. a more natural watering cycle.

      If the plant does recover I would not expect to see new buds or re-growth until next spring. If there is new buds and growth, you could then prune out the deadwood. Perhaps then you could even lower the plant (root-ball) a bit more into the native ground. But I would still favor keeping the top of the root-ball higher than the surrounding ground. You would have to judge how much that would be — I can’t give an amount without seeing the situation.

    15. Larry Says:

      I have a winter creeper emerald gaiety and it not growing upward but side ways or wide. Should I put a steak in the ground to prompt it?

    16. Roger Says:

      It’s not unusual that growth habits vary within the variety ‘Emerald Gaiety’. Frankly, I think variations just occur when plants are propagated and mass produced.

      It’s possible that a stake or two will help direct some of the growth upward — especially if you’re helping things along with monitoring and affixing stems to each stake with a twist-tie (or similar). But if the overall growth habit of that particular plant is more sideways, it’s likely you’ll never get “the look” you’re after.

    17. Ryan Craner Says:

      Hi Roger, I have a type of Golden Euonymus and am unsure exactly what type. I’m planting them in my yard as a privacy hedge. I transplanted them from my grandparents house they are small now. I planted them in late august. I live in Delaware. Just wanted some info on taking care of them for winter. They are starting to produce new growth. Also my these hedges are pretty tall at my grandparents house. I’d say over 6ft but from what I’ve been reading the golden euonymus isn’t suppost to get to that height? Well I want them to be tall and I figured they’d get just as tall as they are at my grandma’s since they are the same hedge. So what type of Golden Euonymus do I have? Also can I spray them with miracle grow to help growth and if so what time of year should I?

    18. Jennifer Says:

      I have 2 of these – one with green and yellow leaves, and one with green and white. We live in Canada in Saskatchewan so have very cold winters. I read that the leaves might go pink – which has happened previously. I am wondering if I should “winterize” these plants to better protect them from the harshness of our winter conditions. Any advice??

    19. Roger Says:

      It looks like Saskatchewan covers Planting Zones 2, 3 & 4. And Eunoymus fortunei varieties are listed as hardy to Zone 4. So you’re definitely “testing” that plant in your area.

      In short, “winter protection methods” protect the plant from exposure (sun & wind). The damage occurs when the ground freezes and moisture can no longer be brought up into the plant. Sun & wind causes the leaves to transpire (give off moisture) and the plant cannot replace it.

      I think it’s smart you give some winter protection to your euonymus. In that sense I still like the traditional methods such as surrounding or wrapping in burlap.

      To “wrap” the plants in burlap, first tie them up. Then use burlap to wrap around the plant, like a mummy. :-) You’ll have to shop around for burlap — I would try a local garden center or nursery.

      To “surround” the plants with burlap you would first drive a few stakes into the ground around the plant, and then attach the burlap to the stakes.

      Make sure the plants are adequately watered through the fall. Not that they should be over-watered and the soil too wet, but sufficiently moist so they are not stressed due to dryness.

      It’s also a good idea to have the plants mulched. This insulates the ground somewhat and helps prevent freeze/thaw events, which harm the plant.

    20. Roger Says:

      It’s hard to say exactly what variety of euonymus you have without seeing it. And at that, even then it can be difficult because there are so many cultivars.

      My guess it’s a cultivar of Euonymus japonicus — perhaps ‘Chollipo’.

      I would not feed them now (late summer fall) with Miracle Gro. I would feed with an organic, granular fertilizer in spring (like Espoma’s Plant-Tone).

      Also, you might want to winter-protect the euonymus with an anti-transpirant or put a burlap screen around them.

    21. Sue Says:

      I have a eunonymous shrub (silver and green). It is healthy and happy has grown over many years into and through a massive Hebe. The Hebe has just been removed and the eunonymous is now looking very strange. It has leaves at the base and again at the ends of it’s long branches but the middle sections of the stems are bare and woody. These sections were previously growing under and in amongst the Hebe. Shall I cut it back or will the bare woody sections produce leaves now they are exposed to the light?

    22. Roger Says:

      The fact that there’s foliage above and below the bare stems tells me it’s likely new buds should form there.

      You could trim the ends, which would encourage lower growth and budding.

    23. sarah Says:

      Please advice if these shrubs need to be pruned before frost/snow. I am in southern Ontario. Thanks

    24. Roger Says:

      Hi Sarah,
      I’m afraid the link you gave does not show your image — only the website.

      If you use Dropbox or your Goggle Drive account you can share an image/file.

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