Let me first suggest tell you that you need to measure the elevations (vertical heights) in the area your designing your walk and/or steps.  Grades & pitch can be very deceptive.  Even after 30 years experience I will not “go by eye” on this one. It’s suggested that the maximum slope for walks be 10%.  Or, in other words, 12″ of rise over 10′ of walk.

In my opinion, walks should not exceed a 5% slope (or 12″ of rise over 20′ of walk).  Often it comes down to personal preference.  So if you’re building this walk for someone, make sure they understand what you’re proposing.  More on how to show them your idea(s) in a bit.

In the first picture the walkway seems to be pitched around 12″ over 10′ of walk (or 10%).  The entrance to this walkway (2nd picture) appears to be even steeper.

Now here I am telling you to always measure elevations and I can’t give you the specifics on this walk.  That’s because it’s not my project and I didn’t want to get arrested for trespassing. (I’m losing my sense of adventure.)

With exact elevation measurements you can calculate your different design concepts and compare them to one another.

You can always first consider some “creative” re-grading, but often “steps” are the best way to mitigate a steep walkway.

Seeing Is Believing

Most people have a hard time visualizing things.  I use mock-ups of all kinds to help others and myself really see what’s planned and possible.

I’ll sometimes illustrate an idea for a walkway and/or steps using stakes and a string line.  When set up exactly at the proposed heights, they show the profile of the walk’s surface (pitch) and the risers & treads of the steps.  This let’s the homeowner (and myself) see how it will potentially look.  I find that this simple mock-up always clears up any uncertainty and prevents any design regrets after construction.

Things To Consider When Building Landscape Steps

• Do not compromise on the base for the steps.  If they are masonry steps you should have a concrete footing according to local code.  If they are dry-set steps (stone, cast concrete or timber) you should have a well-compacted aggregate base.  Nothing is worse than steps that “move” over time because of poor base and footing work.
• For landscape steps the riser should be greater than 4″, but no more than 6 ½”.  There are always going to be exceptions, but try to stay within these parameters.
• Here’s a simple formula for calculating the riser height and tread length:  2 (riser) + tread = 26″.   For example, if the riser is going to be 6″, then : 2 (6) + 14 = 26″.   So the tread should be 14″.  Again, use this as a “guideline”.
• Where steps return into the surrounding sloped grade, make sure the step has “finished” sides that are nice to look at.  On the same note, make sure the sloped sides of earth are stabilized to support & conceal the base work for the steps.  Groundcover, grass and even decorative boulders can help with this.

Planning landscape steps and walks really supports the idea that form should follow function.  And yet personal preference always plays a part in the final solution.  What say you?  Feel free to comment.

In the last post for this project we saw the sonotube footings beneath the four corners of the concrete slab.  When the decorative stone & brickwork is complete, each footing will secure and support a pavilion column.

Within the 12″ wide bluestone border is a row of brick to visually tie-in the surrounding brick patio. The remaining area is finished with “pattern” bluestone.

The 2 X 4″ you see sticking up next to the the stairway marks where a 4″ PVC sleeve is located (see photo left). It should be routine that sleeves are installed whenever hardscape construction causes a barrier from getting future wires and utilities from one side to the next.  Make sure you indicate on the landscape plan where these sleeves are located.  I guarantee sometime in the future you’ll need to find them.  Another little trick is to grind a small mark in the stone where the sleeve is – a mark that will be there forever.

With the patio areas complete it was time for the pavilion construction to begin. Dalton Pavilions, located in PA, sent a crew along with the pavilion components.

Their first task was to locate and square the 4 corners of the pavilion. If the mason contractor did his job well, those 4 points should be directly over the sonotube footings.

To the right you’ll see the electrical conduit and wire to power the paddle fan and light for the pavilion.  This feature was planned from the beginning and was specified in the construction drawings.  The mason had to locate the conduit precisely in the footing to accomodate a predrilled hole in the flange of the steel column.

These 5 X 5″ square steel columns are the essence of the pergola’s strength.  They are responsible for supporting the balance of the structure above them, and to secure the entire structure to the ground.

For each steel column four holes were drilled through the patio and into the sonotube footings.  Threaded steel rods could then be anchored into the holes using Hilti Epoxy.  In a short time the epoxy is hardened enough that the steel columns are set and bolted down securely. With the decorative white columns slid over the steel the true strength of the pavilion is beautifully concealed.

In the next project post we’ll see the pavilion come together as a key focal point and shelter in this landscape.

Here’s the next post for this project.

The homeowners wanted a garden structure that would echo the style of their home and offer cover for those wanting to get out of the sun.

I suggested they consider the Heritage Pavilion by Dalton Pavilions.  They chose a 14 X 18′ model, but with single columns on the corners.  The 3 column corners are pretty, but take up additional space.

These pavilions are beautifully made and extremely strong.  They are engineered to withstand a 110 mph wind and a snow load of 30 lbs./ square foot.

The strength of this structure begins with 24″ wide sonotube footings that go 42″ below grade.  There are 4 footings – one for each of the corner columns.  Beneath the pavilion will be a wet-laid bluestone patio built on a concrete slab.

How The Patio Integrates With The Footings

In the first picture you see 2 X 4 framing by each sonotube. This precisely forms the four corners of the pavilion’s concrete patio slab.  The slab is poured so it bridges over the footings.

The pavilion has 4 white columns.  These columns are decorative and actually slide over 5 X 5″ steel structural columns.  These steel columns are affixed to the concrete footings with threaded steel rod.  You’ll see this construction in upcoming posts on this project.

New Elevations Begin To Show

I can remember in the early planning stages setting up grade stakes with string lines to illustrate proposed elevations for the new hardscape.  The homeowner was amazed that these features would “sit up” at these indicated heights, and quite frankly, I double-checked my elevation measurements just to be sure.  Elevations can be tricky to “eye-up” at times and for this reason I’m a real fan of grade stakes, string lines and markers set with an instrument.

The main portion of the patio will be done in dry-set brick and will come right up to the wet-laid bluestone patio under the pavilion.  To give definition to the bluestone patio and an elegant segue to the brick, mason contractor Lester Szajna has installed a 12″ bluestone coping as a border.

Here’s the previous post on this project. And here’s the next.

Flagpoles Are A Classic Property Feature

Well the article title probably gives it away, but I happen to love the idea of integrating a flagpole into the landscape.  Come on, you have to agree!  How often do we hear and read about the importance of using “focal points” in our landscape designs?…Strategically and in good taste of course.  Well here you have it then.  They’re beautiful, classic, go with just about any style garden or home.  (Alright, a zen garden may be pushing it.)  And the patriotic sentiment is as beautiful as the flag.

Anyway, this is an all cedar wood flagpole made by Walplole Woodworkers in MA.  The homeowners had ordered it themselves so I don’t have all the details. I’d say it stands around 20′ tall, has a brass ball finial at the top and comes with all the hardware and rigging.  There are 2 support posts on either side of the flagpole that allow you to pivot and lower the pole by removing one the the support pins.  A standard feature on most flagpoles for maintenance purposes.

To insure this flagpole will forever stand straight and proud we have approximately 700 lbs. of concrete in the footing.  The boys couldn’t resist leaving their handprints for future explorers to find.  The 2 x3 studs work great for bracing while the concrete sets.

I wonder if either of these wiseguys have tried to climb to the top yet.