It is deciduous, but considered a 4 season plant mainly because:

• It has lush dark green leaves.

• It flowers white in early summer.

• It has bright yellow fall color and cinnamon colored exfoliating bark.

As you can see it’s a great plant, but you need to be aware of its capabilities.

The first year or two it grows slow while it establishes. Then the pace picks up and it becomes quite vigorous.

As a climber I’ve yet to see its limit in height. Planted at the base of a large tree it will cling and climb until it reaches the top. I’m talking 60′ no problem.

The good news is you can control climbing hydrangea with proper pruning. But I say that with a warning.  If you use it in a limited space, like the one we’re about to talk about, you must be diligent with your pruning or it will easily take over the area.

It’s Doing Well – Too Well!

How do you respond to a customer that says that to you?

“I’m glad your climbing hydrangea is doing well, but sorry it’s covering your house.”

You can avoid those embarassing moments by knowing a plant’s capability right from the start.  Then you can advise your customer what to expect, how they can care for it or how others will care for it.

In the picture above climbing hydrangea is working well on this brick wall. But the plant wants to get bigger, as it does every year. It’s in its DNA.

Notice that the real dominant growth is towards the top. It wants to climb and get as tall as it can. I’ve used climbing hydrangea on homes where it is maintained just below the second story eaves. Not easy to do, but the look is beautiful.

How To Go About Controlling This Climber

The best time to prune climbing hydrangea is after it flowers.

The new flower buds are formed soon after flowering and remain on those stems for the following year. So you’d rather not cut those off if possible.

However, unless you operate with a “calendar of tasks” for your maintenance accounts, you will most likely prune the hydrangea when you’re there pruning everything else.

So regardless of when you prune climbing hydrangea, cut back the long shoots and those growing outward from the wall to just above a bud or leaf point. Prune selectively using hand pruners.

Often I’ll follow an aggressively growing branch to its “point of origin” and make my cut there.  This is the point where the lateral branch connects to a larger stem.

This climber produces “aerial roots” that attach themselves to whatever structure is nearby. When first planted you may have to help it attach to the structure by:

• Installing the plant so it deliberately leans and touches the wall or structure.

• Tying some of the main branches to the wall or structure temporarily till they attach. Several materials and methods will do this, but be careful these ties don’t constrict around the branches.

These aerial roots will sometimes leave a mark and organic residue on the surface after they attach. On this home some of the branches attached to the white shutters. It took extra time and effort to scrub them clean.

Like with all plants, when you know and understand their characteristics you can use them creatively and effectively. How have you used climbing hydrangea in your landscapes?  Did it perform as you expected or surprise you?  Let us know in the comments.

During your walk around the house make a point of asking homeowners what rooms are which from the outside. They’ll most likely invite you in so you can  appreciate what they see (and feel) from the different rooms.

This is by no means a new concept.  Attentive architects will design and orient homes to capitalize on views from the inside out.

In this post I want to talk about the role ornamental trees can play from inside the home and some of the particular ones you can use for this purpose.

Ornamental Trees Are Like Swiss Army Knives

Smaller and mid-size ornamental trees are really versatile in landscape design.  They’re certainly useful on large scale properties, and frankly indispensible on small scale ones.

When properly chosen an ornamental tree can give canopy or ceiling to a space without taking up a lot of room. Used in relative close proximity to a building they can help soften parts of the architecture.

Design / Sales Tip: A complete landscape project can be a huge expense.  “Phasing” the project is a common way to break up the cost.  You can recommend installing the trees as part of phase 1.  Since the trees have such impact on the landscape, planting them early gives an immediate effect; a lot of ROI for the first installment on the landscape. Plus it gives these key design elements a chance to establish early and get growing.

Branches So Close You Can Almost Touch Them

In the picture above is Flowering Dogwood planted approximately 7′ from the foundation of a raised porch area.

This ornamental tree should grow 18 – 20′ in height and 14 – 16′ in width. And because the porch is open and recessed the dogwood should not encroach into the side of the home.

In the picture below you can see the view the homeowner has from her kitchen window. The closeness of the branching (and flowers in spring) are almost part of the interior decor. Birds will sometimes use the tree as a perch, especially to feast on the glossy red fruit in early fall. She’s told me several times how much enjoyment she gets year-round from that dogwood.

Here are some of the ornamental trees to use near the home that have benefits from the inside too.

• Flowering Dogwood – Well of course.  It’s probably one of the best for this use.  However, flowering dogwood can have plant health issues such as anthracnose and borers. Just make sure you “site it” carefully to avoid stressing the plant. Approximate tree width 14 – 16′.

• Kousa Dogwood – This dogwood is more resistant to anthracnose than standard dogwood and flowers typically 3 weeks later. Another nice feature: Its trunk becomes multicolored with shades of brown, tan and gray. Approximate tree width 14 – 16′.

• Rutgers Hybrid Dogwoods – These dogwoods are from a cross-breeding program started by Dr. Orton at Rutgers University. These hybrids share the traits of standard dogwood and kousa to produce superior plants in terms of plant health. They’re a great choice. Approximate tree width 14 -16′.

• Japanese Maple – There are numerous varieties of this specie so be aware of the particular plant’s characteristics you’re considering. Their branching and trunk architecture is unmatched. Approximate tree width 14 – 16′ (varies among the many cultivars).

• Paperbark Maple – Has an upright and oval form. As the tree matures the bark starts to exfoliate showing beautiful shades of red-brown and cinnamon. Approximate tree width 14 – 16′.

• Japanese Stewartia – Somewhat pyramidal in shape and has camellia-like flowers in June/July. This later-than-spring flowering always gets a nod from homeowners. Approximate tree width 10 – 14′.

Plant Characteristics To Look For

Some of the characteristics to look for when siting an ornamental tree close to the house and to be viewed from the inside are:

• An open branching structure. Avoid trees that have dense foliage and branching.

• Moderate growing that can be easily pruned to control and “influence” branching. (We’ll talk more about directing growth by pruning in future posts).

• Attractive features like flowering, leaf shape and color, trunk color and texture, etc.

Plant health and hardiness are certainly considerations as they would be for any of your plant selections.

You’ll notice I’ve mentioned approximate plant width several times already. It’s so important you know that for each tree you consider, especially when you’re looking for the effect of branching right outside a window.

You want to space the tree from the home close to the potential radius of the tree.  If you do that it will ensure years and years of enjoyment.  Perhaps you’ll need to prune a bit to shape and direct the plant, but this should be minor.

The views from inside the home are important for you to consider as landscape designers and contractors. Your customers will get more enjoyment out of their landscape not only during the day, but also at night if lighting is part of your project.

Plant information is a lot like a language.  From an artistic standpoint we use the different plant types, forms, textures and colors to create all kinds of compositions. There are architectural and period styles, even different feelings and moods we can communicate – just like with a language. All by arranging the right selection of plants.

From a practical standpoint we use plant information to solve problems in the landscape.  Just like we use a language to communicate a solution.

Plant Information Is A Cornerstone To Our Trade

A cornerstone is something that is basic, essential, indispensable, and the main foundation upon which something is constructed or developed.

Even if you’re a lawn care contractor a fundamental knowledge of plants will help your business. In fact, if you’re well-versed on turf you already have a good understanding of plant life in general. And although plants can be very different from one another, there’s also a lot they have in common.

No matter what your specialty within the industry, it’s all part of the landscape. Everything is integrated in one form or another.  Having an understanding at some “base level” on each of the parts of the landscape system makes you better at the particular thing you do.  For example, an irrigation contractor with some plant knowledge can more effectively design a sprinkler system than one who doesn’t.

For the landscape architect, designer and landscape contractor plant information is truly cornerstone. You simply can’t provide the best solutions for landscapes without plant knowledge. Period. A major portion of the work I do is “renovations”.  Some of these renovations are only a few years old.  The most common errors on these landscapes is the incorrect selection, arrangement and spacing of plant material.

You Can Build Your Plant Knowledge Easily Everyday

As you’d expect there is an endless number of plants out there. You could take it upon yourself to just start studying and memorizing information, but experience has shown me that learning like that “doesn’t stick”. The best way to discover new information and remember it is while looking for a specific solution.

For example, let’s say your client wants to replace an overgrown spruce on the corner of their home. You know that was the wrong choice because it’s hanging over the house. You measure the space the new replacement will have to grow (at maturity) and also take notice of the surroundings (exposure, soil type, wet or dry, grading, etc.).

You may already have an idea what that new plant should be, but here’s my approach. When you visit the supplier(s) look for the plant you may have in mind, but at the same time consider something different.  You know the basic form and growth habit you’re after – let that be the identifier for another possible choice.

If another plant has that basic form and habit take a minute to consider it. Odds are good it’s labeled in some way with basic information. In my truck I carry 2 books for reference: Dirr’s Hardy Trees and Shrubs by Michael Dirr and The Well-Tended Perennial Garden by Tracy DiSabato-Aust. These 2 books are also great for showing pictures of plants to clients. Michael Dirr’s “Manual of Woody Landscape Plants” (pictured here) is an outstanding reference too. It is more comprehensive and detailed, but without color pictures.

This learning experience is part of your productive day. Maybe you did discover and purchase a new and different plant for that spruce replacement.  But even if you didn’t you’ll likely remember the one or two others you considered. That process of solving a particular problem creates an association with the new plants you looked at. This association is what helps file it in your memory.

Another way to gather new information on plants is to just be aware of their use in other landscapes. I’m always checking out properties as I go about my day, and invariably I’ll spot an interesting plant being used. It could be a plant I have never seen before, or maybe the way it’s being used is unique. Both circumstances are learning experiences to add to your knowledge base.

We’re all busy trying to be productive and profitable every minute of our day. Don’t let that stop you from expanding your knowledge. Make learning a part of your day. You’ll benefit directly because you become a better expert – your work will show that and your reputation grows. In addition, use your knowledge to “educate” your clients & prospects.  This gets their attention and respect…and you know what that gets!

Today I planted and arranged fall flowers at my house.  While rushing to get that chore done so I could move on to the next, it hit me.  Maybe some of you folks could use some tips on this.

How can I work underneath a wide plant and keep my sanity?

Right?  It can be a real nuisance “getting down in there”.  In this instance it’s a mum, one of the popular fall flowers.

The idea is simple.  Carefully tie up and bundle the branches so you can see what you’re doing.  Frankly, this trick applies to working underneath and around many types of plants.

Remember to mark the nicest side (face) of the mum before tying it up.  A little piece of string works great for this.

I’m using a piece of Arbor Tie to tie up the mum.  It’s wider than string and very soft.  For delicate plants (like a mum), something like this works great.  I’ve also rolled up a piece of burlap and tied that around the plant.  You get the idea.

How to keep top-heavy fall flowers from falling over.

Frequently we arrange fall flowers just in their nursery pots above ground.  These seasonal arrangements can get very creative by arranging the plants at different heights and positions.  How often, though, do you see them tipped over?

Here’s a simple fix.  Use 3 bamboo garden stakes per mum to “stake” them in place.

Push each bamboo stake through a drainage hole up from the bottom.  Angle the stake in a bit so you stay in the “meat” of the root ball.

Let them stick out the bottom 1/2″ or so and set the plant where you like it.  Push each stake down into the ground and/or hay bale.  Prune off the excess bamboo on top.

Seasonal arrangements, like with fall flowers, add something special for that time of year.  But like everything else in the landscape, there’s a practical and functional side.

Mums and other fall flowers must be kept moist.  By planting them in either the ground or larger planters you slow down the moisture loss.

For those you arrange above ground the bamboo staking method ensures they stay put.  Just be aware that these plants will require more frequent waterings.

For those in the trade, you don’t want to be spending more time than you have to on these seasonal arrangements.  But, like always, the results are important.  Use these tricks to make things easier on you.  Plus, you’ll get fewer call backs, more happy customers and possibly the greatest compliment of all…referrals.

There are so many creative ideas out there for seasonal displays.  If you’re into it, feel free to share any techniques or styles you may use in the comments.

The answer is obvious – if a plant dies the company that installed it must replace it.

Of course that’s the main reason to want a guarantee.  But I don’t think we choose a product or service just because it has a guarantee.  Most of us want a “quality” product or service, and then if the product or service has a problem, it’s taken care of under guarantee.

But no matter how good a plant guarantee is, it’s still a hassle to go through the process.  Typically you call the company; they have to send someone out to look, schedule the replacements, make sure they have the right plants…you know how that goes.  Yes, eventually the plants are replaced (mmm, most of the time), but it’s still something we’d all rather avoid.

Now I have to say, there are landscape companies out there that respond very well to guarantee issues.  In fact, I know of some companies that check their more recent projects and spot plants needing replacement before the homeowner does.  Rare, yes, but they do exist.

A good landscape company confidently stands by and fulfills its plant guarantee obligations. How are they able to do this?  They control plant loss with:

• Knowledge of plant types and planting design
• Ability to find and identify quality plants
• Knowledge of soil types, drainage and other influential conditions
• Knowledge of installation practices for varying conditions & circumstances

A company that operates at this level can be confident that their plant losses will be minimal.

A poor landscape company will struggle with a plant guarantee because of constant plant losses.  The picture above tells a grim story.

Not one of these nine arborvitae survived.  Why?

The exposure is directly south.  The planting area is elevated behind a wall.  There’s an asphalt parking lot in front.  I’m feeling hot and thirsty just thinking about it!

The first thing that should come to mind in this situation is: “Brutal conditions.  What can I design to sustain in this environment?”

Yes arborvitae like sun, but they prefer moist conditions.  If they struggle with dryness and challenging conditions (like these) they are doomed to failure.  Even if they somehow survived they’d be stressed and predisposed to numerous ailments.

No Worries… There’s A Plant Guarantee!

Yes, I suppose there is.  Although these have been dead for awhile.  Let’s give the landscape company the benefit of the doubt.  They’re waiting for the “fall planting season” to replace them.  I wonder if they’re going to replace them with more arborvitae?

When I say a plant guarantee is only as good as the landscaper behind it, I don’t mean to imply quality of character.  It is very likely this landscaper had and will continue to have the best of intentions.

The lesson here is don’t get false hope just because there’s a guarantee.  Do your “due diligence” and make sure a good, knowledgeable company goes along with that plant guarantee.

There are many plant guarantee stories out there.  Have any good ones?  Let us know in the comments.

• What is the main purpose of the planting design?
• How much and what “level” of care will be given to this landscape?
• How will the gardens look throughout the year?

What’s the purpose for this planting design?

Sometimes there is an absolute functional reason to “work” the landscape, such as a slope with erosion or a nasty view that needs screening.  Other times it could be purely aesthetics where you just want to create something beautiful for enjoyment.  More often than not the two goals work side by side.

From a functional and practical sense, the sign in this landscape needed a “setting” where lawn mowers and other equipment would not come near it.  In addition, future lighting will need a safe area for the fixtures to sit.

Who’s going to take care of this planting design and what’s it going to cost?

Every aspect of your design should be considered from a maintenance and longevity standpoint.

“Every time you establish a planned landscape there is care and on-going cost associated with it.”

Line design, plant selection & spacing, hardscape choices, groundcovers, mulch – you name it and it will have an affect on care and on-going cost.

Homeowners need to be aware of this fact and consider it in their initial decision making.  Yes, climbing wisteria is a beautiful thing, but realize what goes along with it.

If you’ll look at the plan pictured below, the shape of the bed is a simple oval; making it a snap to cut the grass and line trim the edge.

The two evergreens used are Cherry Laurel and Blue Star Juniper.  For the most part these plants can mature on their own with little pruning and intervention.  Most problematic and maintenance-heavy landscapes are due to poor plant selection and arrangement.

How will the garden look throughout the year?

A main request for this planting design was to have seasonal color.  For this circumstance and relatively small garden, I decided on 2 symmetrical areas dedicated to seasonal color.  Yes, we discussed the work and cost to maintain this feature and it was acceptable.  What you’re seeing now (summer) is New Guinea Impatiens and “Wave” Petunias.

The seasonal color plantings cover April to November.  In the off-season the evergreen Laurel and Juniper carry the garden with balance and interest.

This design is so simple, yet it functions as it should.

If you have a question on a landscape you’re working on, ask it in the comments below.  If you have a picture and it’s posted on the web (e.g. Flickr, Yahoo, Picasa, etc.), include the link in your comment.

Stone steps come in all styles.  Essentially their role is to get you from one level to another.

In good landscape design, how stone steps look is as important as how they function.  Frankly, that should be the case of every element in a well-designed landscape.

When we speak of the function for steps, it’s important to realize if these steps are the only option to get from one level to another.  Or, are there alternative ways in the design.

And if there are alternative ways, what role of importance will these particular steps provide?

If the area to access is important and only one set of steps is used, then they have to conform to the features of any safe and frequently used stairway.  In fact, depending on the situation, you may be subject to building code parameters.  As always, it’s smart to be up to speed on these regulations.

In the project pictured above there is a pool and patio level on top and a cobble-like paver walkway below.  There are 3 alternative ways to get from this lower level to the pool.

1. Near the driveway and where guests would enter the backyard there is a “primary” set of masonry steps with stone veneer risers and bluestone step treads.   I call them primary because this is the main set of steps to the area.

These masonry steps meet every requirement for safety including a handrail.  They did require a construction permit and were inspected.

2. At the other end of the pool/patio, the lower grade was sloped up to meet the patio.  This alternate access is grass and allows for an “easy-go” if you’re wheeling something or would just rather not navigate steps.

3. In between the masonry steps and the sloped lawn access we planned to have boulders and plantings to retain the earth.  While setting the boulders it came to us to offer a 3rd alternate access to the homeowner.  They have children who we thought would love a “rock-climbing-like” step/path down to the cobble walkway.  (See the first picture).

The Type Of Stone Step You Build Should Relate To Its Use

Here’s why these “rough” fieldstone steps work:

• they are not the only access
• they provide a  novel experience for the young & adventuresome.  (Not to say the older folks can’t give them a go too.)
• they add interest to the garden

These “rough” stone steps in the first picture were simply picked out of a stockpile of fieldstone boulders that were delivered.  By selecting rocks with flatter sides, “stone steps were born”.

If you wanted to have an informal and natural set of steps, but with a bit more consistency, stone slab-steps are available.  As seen in the picture to the right, these steps are more angular and come from the quarry in slabs.

Although they’re not dimensionally the same, you can request certain size ranges and that helps with building stone steps to fit your plan and vision.

To make the rise-height of each step the same, you can adjust the “setting bed” (usually gravel) to make the stone sit higher or lower.

There are other techniques which involve cutting the stone with a diamond blade to make it fit the situation.  I’m sure in future posts I’ll be able to show you some of these persuasive techniques.

Stone step design is only limited by your imagination.  How have you utilized rocks into stairways?  Let us know in the comments below.

Why Would Plant Position Be So Important?

More often then not plant position is critical, especially on the residential property.

• space limitations alone demand positioning plants accurately.
• positioning plants is particularly important near buildings, pools, patios, walkways and other structures.
• positioning is #1 when screening for privacy or to block a view.
• spacing and alignment for hedging and other “deliberate patterns” must be spot-on to look right.

How To Preserve and Insure Plant Position

A standard plant installation job with small to medium sized plants is typically set-up so that the new plants are arranged and sitting right where they’re going.  In this situation it’s normal to just mark the spot for the hole by outlining the container or root-ball with the shovel.

However, sometimes as we mentioned in our bullet-points above, it’s necessary to get that plant in the ground exactly where it is intended.

Very often we’ll refer to the “center” of the plant when talking about spacing and positioning.  The reference and use of “center” eliminates any confusion for an installer regardless of  the width or shape of a plant.

In the picture above the new plants are arranged as a border screen.  Each plant’s position has been adjusted.  It’s important to insure this exact position through the planting phase.

To do this I use granular limestone to mark the centers of each plant with “cross-hairs”.  (You could also use marking paint.) I extend the lines a good distance so that portions of the lines remain visible while the holes are being dug.

No matter how crazy the hole-digging gets due to roots, rocks and other underground surprises, the center of the hole can always be referenced with the “cross-hairs”.

Finally, when it comes time to set the plant in the hole, once again the “cross-hairs” give us the center of the plant’s intended location.

I’ve used this simple method of marking plant locations in other circumstances where it was just too impractical to set the new plant(s) up first.  Or, the new plant was on its way to the jobsite and we wanted to get the hole dug before it arrived.

How do you handle plant positioning for installation?  Let us know in the comments.

Lily of the Valley is one of those ground covers you may not always think to use.  Yet it is one of the easiest to grow, can spread like crazy and needs hardly any care.  I know, you’re probably thinking “Why am I not using more of this plant?”.

In case you’re not familiar with Lily of the Valley (Convallaria majalis), here’s some plant profile information on this gem.

It is perennial and therefore dies down to the ground each year before winter.  Bonus! This makes leaf clean-up much easier than having to rake out a bed of pachysandra in the fall.

Lily of the Valley grows to about 8″ high (although there are some taller varieties) and spreads by rhizomes.  These underground stems grow laterally and then push up shoots (sometimes called “pips”) to form new leaves.

Because it’s a fairly aggressive spreader, I’m careful where I plant it.  For instance, don’t try to mix it into a bed with other perennials – it will easily over-run the others.  However, it does mix and coexist well with other woody plants like Rhododendron and Viburnum.  In fact, that’s a great look in a woodland setting.

Lily of the Valley prefers shade to partial shade, but it will tolerate sun, especially if given enough moisture.  It doesn’t seem to be too particular about soil type – another testament to its “warrior” status in my book.

It’s rated for Zones 2 – 7, but the further south you go the more shade you should give it.

The flowers show up in mid spring.  They are white, bell-shaped and have a nice scent.  One thing though: orange berries may appear in the fall.  These are poisonous so just keep that in mind if you have little kids nearby.

Lily of the Valley has beauty and brawn.  The classic use is as a ground cover under shade trees, but creatively it can be used around woody plants and also in the “nooks and crannies” of a shady rock garden.

One more great attribute of this plant is its deer resistance.  In my area this quality is almost becoming a must.

Let me know in the comments how you’ve used it and what experiences you’ve had with Lily of the Valley.

I can remember taking plant identification courses in school and being overwhelmed by how different each plant is.  Setting aside their cultural differences, like what type of soil and exposure they prefer, let’s just think about the differences in terms of shape and size.

How we design and arrange plantings is a huge topic and should begin with basic design principles.  However, without first knowing fundamental plant information your planting designs are built more on a “wing and a prayer” rather than strategic planning.

Yes, the planting should be attractive and show the traits of any good design such as balance, unity, etc., but let’s not forget that these plants are living things and will grow to their natural size and shape.

Plant Information Is Cheap To Come By And Yet Incredibly Valuable

When you speak to a knowledgeable plant person they always talk in terms of how a plant will ultimately grow (shape and size), and also what environmental conditions it grows best in.  This way of thinking helps to design landscapes where the plants flourish and not struggle.  It also allows for proper spacing so the landscape will last for years without overcrowding.

Experience is certainly a great teacher, but it all starts with readily available plant information from books and online.  I keep two books in my truck for quick reference: Dirr’s Hardy Trees and Shrubs by Michael Dirr, and The Well-Tended Perennial Garden by Tracy DiSabato-Aust.

Looking up a plant takes a few minutes, but those few minutes are probably the most valuable time you’ll spend in your planning.  Plus, you’ll find that after a while this information sticks in your mind and you’ll start considering plants as to how they actually grow.  You’ll be on your way to being a “plant-person” and a much better designer.

Are You Sure You Want That Plant There?

Hornbeam 'Fastigiate'

In the foundation planting pictured above it’s obvious the designer has creative talent, but lacks plant knowledge.

In the picture to the right is a Hornbeam ‘Fastigiate’.  This tree will grow to 30 – 40′ high and 20′ wide.  This is the tree the designer has in front of the window next to the door.

No doubt the designer saw this tree at the nursery, admired its “columnar” shape and thought: “This baby will soften the view of the house and stay nice and narrow”.  If this designer had opened a book, he or she would have realized “this baby” will grow out of this space in no time.

Colorado Spruce 'Montgomery'

Beware of the term “dwarf”.

There are a number of plants out there that are sometimes referred to as “dwarf” varieties.  Realize that this is a relative term and when you compare the size of the standard specie to the cultivated variety, you may certainly refer to the smaller one as “dwarf”.

A ‘Montgomery’ Spruce originates from the giant Colorado Spruce.  Yes, it does grow considerably smaller, but I’ve seen them 7′ high and 10′ wide on numerous occasions.  You see the little blue spruce in front of the Hornbeam in this foundation planting?… it’s a ‘Montgomery’.  I often hear this plant referred to as a dwarf spruce.  Real petite, right?

You see what’s happening here? (or going to happen?)

I hate to beat this point to death, but there’s one more blatant misuse of plant in this foundation planting.  I’m sure some of you already see it and were wondering when I’d get to it.

Cryptomeria

In our “case study” picture above, planted off the first left corner where the building juts back there is a Crytomeria.  This is another favorite plant of mine.  In fact, to the right is a Crytomeria I installed 25 years ago.  Although I knew the plant would get bigger, I was still naive in thinking it would stay within certain bounds.  Fortunately, the lower branches could be pruned to give this “monster” a raised canopy and allow it to work in this foundation space.

I can’t impress upon you enough the importance of plant knowledge in landscape design.  Experience, as was the case with the Cryptomeria, has taught me a great deal over the years.  But by referencing books and other sources I’ve learned a great deal and continue to discover new information.

A friend of mine in the business is now in his 80′s.  He’s been propagating and growing plants all his life.  I once complimented him on his knowledge and he said, “With all there is to learn, I’m just scratching the surface”.