One thing you learn from doing landscape renovation projects is what works and what doesn’t.  The test of time will often determine if something was built correctly or not.

And because our work is outside, never underestimate the affects of  mother nature on the materials you choose and how they are “put together”.  Sun exposure, shade, moisture, temperature, wind, soil type, drainage – these are just some of natures’ forces working against your creations.

Dave Kennedy of Lavelle Farms is handling all aspects of the exterior renovation of this home.  He has recommended to the homeowner a classic bluestone walkway.

This front walkway is one of several hardscape features the family want done as part of phase 1 in this renovation.

Base Prep – Step 1 To Building It Right

I’ll bet most people have heard the advice: “Build it on a good foundation”.  Truer words have never been spoken.

For a “dry-set” bluestone walkway, the base the bluestone sits on is essentially its foundation.

A dry-set bluestone walkway relies on a thick, compacted aggregate base that drains well.

What you’re walkway doesn’t want is:

• moisture building up underneath the stone.  Water can contribute to unstable conditions, and if it freezes can “heave” the surface stones out of position.
• loose or organic soil as part of the sub-base.  The earth that you ultimately build your walkway’s base on should be compacted sub-soil.  Top soils containing organics (such as leaf litter, roots, etc.) should never be used.  Soils like that should be removed.

After excavating for the bluestone walkway the sub-soil is compacted with a vibratory plate compactor.  Dave uses stringlines as a constant reference during construction.

All specifics such as walkway pitch and number of steps are worked out in the designing phase.

After sub-soil compaction Mirafi filter fabric is laid at the bottom and sides to keep the base material from mixing with the sub-soil.  In the picture above 3/4″ clean gravel is dumped onto the fabric to start the bluestone walkway base.

Do not add more than 6″ of base gravel at a time without compacting.

To set the actual bluestone a smaller diameter gravel is layered on top of the coarser gravel.  This smaller gravel also drains well and is easier to adjust when setting each stone.

The bluestone walkway is 5′ wide to comfortably handle two people walking side by side.  I would suggest not going under 4′ wide for a “primary” walkway.

The 2 steps are each solid bluestone with consistent 6″ risers.  Dave “hand-tooled” the sides to get the natural rock-faced look.

Natural Stone – A Good Choice

The final choice for the walkway’s surface should combine considerations for:

• Style and look.
• Function and durability.
• Cost to value.

This is a decision you’ll live with for some time.  Also, it could be a factor when and if you sell the house.  In terms of style, choose a material that’s classic and timeless.

Thinking again about the affects of nature over the long haul, is this material able to stand the test of time?  Will the color change or fade?  Will the actual material break down and fragment?  Is it slippery when wet?  Easy to shovel snow off?

In terms of cost to value it’s important to identify those features that are important to you and get proposals that will give those results.  You can then make the decision as to whether this cost is justified for your circumstance.

Natural stone always makes a good choice.  Certainly there are some bad choices among the natural stones too, but generally they offer timeless style, durability and good value.

Stone steps come in all styles.  Essentially their role is to get you from one level to another.

In good landscape design, how stone steps look is as important as how they function.  Frankly, that should be the case of every element in a well-designed landscape.

When we speak of the function for steps, it’s important to realize if these steps are the only option to get from one level to another.  Or, are there alternative ways in the design.

And if there are alternative ways, what role of importance will these particular steps provide?

If the area to access is important and only one set of steps is used, then they have to conform to the features of any safe and frequently used stairway.  In fact, depending on the situation, you may be subject to building code parameters.  As always, it’s smart to be up to speed on these regulations.

In the project pictured above there is a pool and patio level on top and a cobble-like paver walkway below.  There are 3 alternative ways to get from this lower level to the pool.

1. Near the driveway and where guests would enter the backyard there is a “primary” set of masonry steps with stone veneer risers and bluestone step treads.   I call them primary because this is the main set of steps to the area.

These masonry steps meet every requirement for safety including a handrail.  They did require a construction permit and were inspected.

2. At the other end of the pool/patio, the lower grade was sloped up to meet the patio.  This alternate access is grass and allows for an “easy-go” if you’re wheeling something or would just rather not navigate steps.

3. In between the masonry steps and the sloped lawn access we planned to have boulders and plantings to retain the earth.  While setting the boulders it came to us to offer a 3rd alternate access to the homeowner.  They have children who we thought would love a “rock-climbing-like” step/path down to the cobble walkway.  (See the first picture).

The Type Of Stone Step You Build Should Relate To Its Use

Here’s why these “rough” fieldstone steps work:

• they are not the only access
• they provide a  novel experience for the young & adventuresome.  (Not to say the older folks can’t give them a go too.)
• they add interest to the garden

These “rough” stone steps in the first picture were simply picked out of a stockpile of fieldstone boulders that were delivered.  By selecting rocks with flatter sides, “stone steps were born”.

If you wanted to have an informal and natural set of steps, but with a bit more consistency, stone slab-steps are available.  As seen in the picture to the right, these steps are more angular and come from the quarry in slabs.

Although they’re not dimensionally the same, you can request certain size ranges and that helps with building stone steps to fit your plan and vision.

To make the rise-height of each step the same, you can adjust the “setting bed” (usually gravel) to make the stone sit higher or lower.

There are other techniques which involve cutting the stone with a diamond blade to make it fit the situation.  I’m sure in future posts I’ll be able to show you some of these persuasive techniques.

Stone step design is only limited by your imagination.  How have you utilized rocks into stairways?  Let us know in the comments below.

PVC Conduit

The rigid, Sch. 40 PVC pipe shown in this picture is most often used for electrical wire -  like  THHN conductor wire that cannot be buried directly in the ground.  However, there’s no reason you can’t run other types of wire (and things) through this conduit too.

Rigid PVC conduit like this comes in various diameters along with numerous types of “fittings” and connectors to accommodate most any situation.  With a combination of these fittings and special PVC glue you can create a sealed environment to protect the wires and splices inside.

Earlier I mentioned the use of poly pipe as a conduit.  I’m referring to the black poly pipe used in underground sprinkler work.

Poly Sprinkler Pipe As A Conduit

Poly Pipe – Handy, Cheap and Effective

If your a landscape contractor, odds are good you have this kind of pipe on-hand anyway.  Perhaps you do sprinkler systems as part of your service offering.  At the very least you should have it on hand for:

• Repairs -  You’d have to call yourself supernatural if you’ve never broken a sprinkler line during a dig-operation.
• Sprinkler Modification -  It’s inevitable that an existing sprinkler head has to be moved because of a new plant or hardscape install.  Or how about an underground poly pipe running right where “something new” has to go.  You’ll need to piece-in an additional section to go around the new feature.
• Conduits -  Poly pipe provides a cheap and effective conduit for many situations.

In the picture above we’re using poly (sprinkler) pipe as a conduit for our low voltage lighting wire.

We installed these poly pipe “runs” early on in the project at a particular time when other utility trenches were open and final grades were not yet established.  We utilized the other open trenches and easily dug to other locations without “tip-toeing” around finished or semi-finished areas.

To do this it’s important you have a detailed landscape plan that illustrates:

• light fixture and tranformer locations
• specific, calculated cable runs
• locations of all other proposed features and elements

With this information you can safely locate your conduit without fear of running into it later on.

Multiple Conduit Runs

Notice how pipe ends are bent over to insure dirt does not enter.

The colored marking tape tells the story as to which pipe goes where and what it’s for.  Write down the “color-key legend” on your plan.  When the time comes to pull wire through these conduits, you’ll know exactly which conduits do what.

These simple conduit runs can save you headaches, work and your client money if you think creatively and strategically, especially in the early stages of your project.

We actually installed additional conduit runs for speaker wire that would be pulled through in the future for rock speakers.

How have you used conduit in different ways?  Feel free to comment below.

Let me first suggest tell you that you need to measure the elevations (vertical heights) in the area your designing your walk and/or steps.  Grades & pitch can be very deceptive.  Even after 30 years experience I will not “go by eye” on this one. It’s suggested that the maximum slope for walks be 10%.  Or, in other words, 12″ of rise over 10′ of walk.

In my opinion, walks should not exceed a 5% slope (or 12″ of rise over 20′ of walk).  Often it comes down to personal preference.  So if you’re building this walk for someone, make sure they understand what you’re proposing.  More on how to show them your idea(s) in a bit.

In the first picture the walkway seems to be pitched around 12″ over 10′ of walk (or 10%).  The entrance to this walkway (2nd picture) appears to be even steeper.

Now here I am telling you to always measure elevations and I can’t give you the specifics on this walk.  That’s because it’s not my project and I didn’t want to get arrested for trespassing. (I’m losing my sense of adventure.)

With exact elevation measurements you can calculate your different design concepts and compare them to one another.

You can always first consider some “creative” re-grading, but often “steps” are the best way to mitigate a steep walkway.

Seeing Is Believing

Most people have a hard time visualizing things.  I use mock-ups of all kinds to help others and myself really see what’s planned and possible.

I’ll sometimes illustrate an idea for a walkway and/or steps using stakes and a string line.  When set up exactly at the proposed heights, they show the profile of the walk’s surface (pitch) and the risers & treads of the steps.  This let’s the homeowner (and myself) see how it will potentially look.  I find that this simple mock-up always clears up any uncertainty and prevents any design regrets after construction.

Things To Consider When Building Landscape Steps

• Do not compromise on the base for the steps.  If they are masonry steps you should have a concrete footing according to local code.  If they are dry-set steps (stone, cast concrete or timber) you should have a well-compacted aggregate base.  Nothing is worse than steps that “move” over time because of poor base and footing work.
• For landscape steps the riser should be greater than 4″, but no more than 6 ½”.  There are always going to be exceptions, but try to stay within these parameters.
• Here’s a simple formula for calculating the riser height and tread length:  2 (riser) + tread = 26″.   For example, if the riser is going to be 6″, then : 2 (6) + 14 = 26″.   So the tread should be 14″.  Again, use this as a “guideline”.
• Where steps return into the surrounding sloped grade, make sure the step has “finished” sides that are nice to look at.  On the same note, make sure the sloped sides of earth are stabilized to support & conceal the base work for the steps.  Groundcover, grass and even decorative boulders can help with this.

Planning landscape steps and walks really supports the idea that form should follow function.  And yet personal preference always plays a part in the final solution.  What say you?  Feel free to comment.

We are losing trees everyday to construction damage.  For the most part, people are simply not aware of the different ways construction impacts trees.

If we think of damage at all, it usually means the obvious such as hitting the trunk or breaking a branch.  However, many construction activities that happen near and around a tree can have an adverse affect as well.

Proactive Planning Saves Trees

With research we have come to understand the complexities of how plants live.  We know how every aspect of their environment is linked to their health.

Sound familiar?  They are living things – just like us.

With this knowledge and understanding we can make decisions and do things proactively to protect trees.

Imagine this scenario.  A new home is planned on property that has beautiful, existing trees.  The homeowner and architect both appreciate the value of the trees and want to consider how they can be integrated into the overall plan.  Yes, some must be removed, but by considering the trees’ well-being right from the planning stage, steps can be taken to protect select ones.  This seems so logical, yet it’s rarely done.

From the homeowner’s perspective, and to be fair, it’s often a matter of just not knowing.  However, when it comes to those “professionals” who are planning and doing the work, we need to see more interest in protecting our trees.

One argument is that this “tree hugging” adds to the costs.  It’s been my experience that when you advise people on the value of their trees and how important it is to take these proactive steps, they often go along with your recommendations.

Many of these steps to protect trees add very little cost – they just require more care in how the construction work is done.

Things You Can Do To Protect Your Trees

The simplest step you can take is to stay as far away as possible from the tree(s).  The surrounding ground represents a balanced environment of soil layers and roots.  Setting up a temporary fence, stakes or markers can really help as reminders to “stay back”.

If construction traffic must go near the trees and root zones, use a thick layer of wood chips and/or plywood to make a protective road.

Construction often means re-grading an area near existing trees and other plants.  Realize that disturbing and changing existing grades can impact drainage, a major aspect of plant health.

Being aware and taking steps to mitigate these problems by using drainage tactics, retainment walls and other means can make the difference in the plants’ survival.

Tree Damage Beyond the Obvious

All living things, including plants, have complex systems.  Damage to these systems can come from different sources and affects.

The heat from construction equipment can damage plants.  Vapor and over-spray from cleansers and other solutions can hurt plants.  These substances can even be taken into the plant’s system through leaves, stems and roots.

If you remove some trees and plants from an area it will likely change the environment for those remaining.  More light and wind will come in; perhaps even erosion will occur.  Just pruning and thinning out trees can also cause more light and wind to enter an area.

A major landscape project with grading, construction and planting can impact existing trees and plants big time.  The installation of an automatic sprinkler system will undoubtedly change moisture levels in the ground.  If these existing plants are not acclimated to this moisture change, it could have an adverse affect on them.

There is alot to consider when doing construction near existing trees and plants.  The intrinsic value of their beauty and contribution to the environment makes it a no-brainer IMO.

If you’re worried about your trees and plants because of a construction project, leave a comment and maybe we can advise.

I’m Talking Simple

We all know there should be detailed landscape plans for major projects, but I’m talking about those times when a plan may not be absolutely necessary….but it sure would help.

Look, you don’t have to wear a beret & smock to get a plan on paper.  And don’t worry about drawing “to scale” – it’s not necessary.  An 8.5 X 11″ unlined piece of paper and you’re good to go.

Click to enlarge

To the right is a simple plan I did to illustrate a solution for roof water soaking the foundation area of this house.

Why even draw a landscape plan?  Why not just take a few notes and measurements?

A Landscape Plan Helps Contractors and Homeowners Alike

When you sketch out your planned solution, you naturally think things through more thoroughly.  You instinctively go through the anticipated job phases and show them on the drawing as they would occur.  It’s like a “dry-run,” verifying (to yourself) that your proposed solution will fit together and work.

No doubt you’ll measure, check that grades & pitch will “cooperate” and look for sprinklers and other potential obstacles.  This plan & sketch process gives you a true sense of the materials and labor needed to complete the job.  Now you can confidently estimate the work.

The homeowner will appreciate the sketch.  It really helps them visualize your ideas and solution.  Your drawing demonstrates that you’ve thought this thing through.  The homeowner can see that your estimate corresponds with the sketch.

A Landscape Plan Ensures Everybody Is On The Same Page

As a project manager, if there’s one fundamental goal to strive for it’s “make sure everybody is on the same page,” and nothing helps to do that better than a sketch or plan.

• A simple plan gives the contractor, a foreman and/or the crew a visual reference.  We’ve all seen how sometimes the verbal message gets misunderstood.
• A simple plan provides a reliable reference for the materials, tools and equipment needed for the job.  For any job, especially the smaller ones, not bringing the right materials & equipment can kill productivity (and morale).
• A simple plan can have site-specific and ‘as-built’ notes that can be filed for future reference.  Did you ever go back to a job and wish you could remember exactly where that underground pipe is or where the crew installed the sleeve under the patio?

The short time it takes to prepare a simple landscape plan can pay huge dividends.  Efficiency and productivity are things we all want.

Oh, and one last point.  A simple plan can be copied to give out to those “with a need to know”.  The simple sketch pictured above I scanned as a PDF file and emailed to the homeowner.  Everyone benefits in numerous ways by using better methods of communication, like a “simple plan”.

This could actually be a continuation of my last post on installing flagstone in grass.

While setting the new flagstone path we came across a soggy area of lawn at the bottom of a stone stairway.  The homeowner said this area was usually wet.

Looking the situation over with landscape contractor Dave Kennedy, we determined that the water was “weeping-out” from the gravel footing of the stone steps.

The gravel footing was doing its job of keeping moisture away from the stone stairway construction.  However, because of the grade of the lawn level at the top of the stairs, extra water from run-off was entering the stairway construction.

In effect, the gravel footing was acting like a drainage seepage-pit for this upper lawn water.  The volume of water was too much to naturally drain into the subsoil and was causing this soggy condition at the base of the stairs.

Planning A Solution

Water is an amazing force.  It is powerful and relentless.  With this in mind your solutions should be designed to work with waters’ natural tendencies.

The excess water was draining from the gravel footing successfully.  The solution to the soggy lawn and area was to “intercept” the water at the base of the gravel footing where it was exiting the stairs and divert it.

Excavation for "intercept" drain

The tactic to intercept water and divert it is the core of most drainage solutions.

In this situation 4″ perforated pipe will be used to “intercept” the water, and solid pipe will carry it to a safe, open area.

In the picture to the left Dave’s crew has already trenched from where the water will exit and are now nearing the steps.  As the trench reaches the steps it begins to fill with water.

Water will seek the path of least resistance and the open trench is now that. The piping, when installed, will provide a permanent avenue and relief for the water.

How This Drain Is Put Together

The perforated pipe (with holes) and the solid pipe (w/o holes) are the same size and made of the same material.  In order to use the perforated and solid pipe together we’ll connect the two with a “coupling”.

Perforated drain pipe in gravel & filter fabric

It’s important to note that the bottom of the entire trench has pitch of at least 1/8″ per foot away from the stairs.

Filter fabric is used to line the bottom and sides of the trench in front of the stairs.  A section of perforated drain pipe is laid into the trench and surrounded with 3/8″ gravel.  The fabric insures no silt or soil will enter into this gravel/pipe zone.

Just past the stairs we convert to solid pipe using the coupling.

In the picture to the right you see the filter fabric which has been folded over the gravel.  Just past the stairs the fabric ends – this is where the perforated pipe converts to solid.

The trench with the solid drain pipe is backfilled carefully with earth.  It’s important while backfilling to check that the pipe sits solidly on the bottom of the trench and has pitch.

The solid pipe exits to an open space where the water can drain naturally.  We’re using smaller fieldstones (4 – 6″ dia.) to build around this pipe end.  This rockwork will help secure and protect the end of the pipe.

"Intercept" drain ready for flagstone

The Drains’ Finishing Details

If you’ll remember, before we got involved with this drainage issue Dave’s crew was installing a flagstone path in the lawn.  Well, nothing has changed.

The filter fabric was kept 4″ below finished grade so 2″ of gravel could be added to set the flagstone.

With the flagstone set over the drainage work, the rest of the path went in by the normal process.

All the disturbed areas were finish-graded, sod was placed back including between the flagstone pieces, and you would never know the drainage solution had ever happened.

Every water problem has its own unique characteristics and circumstances.  The solutions will be equally unique, however the concept remains the same.  You’re not stopping the water, you’re “managing” it.

The look of natural flagstone set in grass can be beautiful if done correctly and used in the right situation.

The turf in-between the stones softens the overall look of the path which can help distinguish it from other primary walkways.  At the same time this technique can subtly  connect different “points” in the landscape and direct the eye and traffic.

From a practical standpoint the stone path gives everybody a clean, solid surface to walk on in the event the grass is wet and/or soft.

The process of installing a path like this will vary slightly depending on circumstances such as the condition of the existing lawn.   Or, perhaps there is no lawn to begin with and you want to achieve this look.

The following installation will show the fundamentals.  If you have questions on a particular circumstance you may be dealing with, leave a “comment” and I’ll help you out.

Flagstone path stone selection

Flagstone Quality And Layout Are Important

Choose a type of flagstone that is dense and solid.  Stay away from slates and other types that flake, fragment and deteriorate over time.

You want the majority of pieces to be larger in size and no less than 1.5″ thick.  The idea here is that greater size and weight give stability – this is key.

Purchase and layout a good selection of flagstone so you have pieces to choose from.  Notice how plywood is used to protect the paver driveway.

Flagstone path layout

Before you begin the actual site work and preparation, arrange the stones on top of the existing lawn how you would ultimately like them to look.

In this picture to the right the stones are set and ready to be installed.  The homeowner requested that the space between the stones be kept close.  Compare this to the first photo at the top.  This is a different project where spacing was made wider.  Keep in mind the spacing must be wide enough to support the living grass.  Arrange the flagstones no closer than 1.5 – 2.0″ apart.

Remove existing lawn

Preparation And Installation Of Flagstone

The next step after arranging the flagstones is to prepare the base for installation.

Step one, removing the existing lawn, was fairly easy on this job.  The grass happened to be recently planted sod and was not yet deeply rooted.

Working in sections, move 3 – 4 stones at a time off to the side.  The sod can then be peeled back and the stones replaced to their set positions.

Realize, of course, that if you had a well established lawn, removing it would most likely involve some other strategy.  Again, which tactic you use to remove the grass depends on the circumstances.

Base preparation and flagstone setting

With the flagstones now sitting on bare ground, you are ready to prepare the base on which you’ll set the stones.

Trace the outline of the stone on the ground with a pointed tool of some sort – a trowel works fine.  Using a spade dig down 5 – 6″ within the outlined area.

In this excavated space install 3 – 4″ of crushed gravel.  We like to use gravel no larger than 1/4″ diameter.  It’s small enough to “move & level” with a trowel, compacts well and drains nicely too.

Now sometimes it gets difficult during this base preparation to preserve the narrower strips of earth between stones.  The key is to preserve or replace soil in these narrow strips so they can support grass. If it becomes too difficult to preserve these narrow strips of soil and they combine with the gravel base, take care to ultimately fill these voids with as much soil as possible.  For grass to survive in that narrow space, it must have a deep root system in soil.

Flagstone can be cut if necessary

A flagstone path in a lawn is meant to be informal.  Although you can see line design and pattern, there is still irregular shapes in the stone.  The pattern, which unifies the path, is achieved by relating the shape of each stone to one another.

Sometimes, no matter how much stone you have to pick from, you simply can’t find a good match.  This is the time to create the shape yourself by cutting the stone.

In the picture above we’ve arranged the path to widen at the top of a stairway.  Unable to find a stone to fit the situation, we overlapped one stone over another.

Flagstone cut and installed

Before making the cut we first mark a line on the bottom stone.  This line mirrors the shape of the stone above with a 2″ space.

The cut is actually made with a diamond blade.  Although diamond blades can be fitted on different types of power saws, here a 2 stroke cut-off saw was used.

After the cut is made the fresh-cut edge is “distressed” with a mason’s hammer to make it look more natural.

This last picture also shows a string-line set up.  The string is set at an equal height from the “finish grade” at each end of the walk.  You can check the uniformity of height and pitch of your walk by referencing this line at any point.  Realize, however, that there are times when your walk’s finished height may have to follow a particular grade contour that is critical for drainage.  Again, this is a particular circumstance you’ll have to identify on your site and adjust to accordingly.

The basic tools for actually setting the flagstones are a mason’s trowel and rubber mallet. The trowel lets you move and adjust the gravel base while the rubber mallet lets you tap the surface of the stones to set them firmly.  As mentioned, the string line is helpful to check your walk’s height and pitch.  A tape measure is used constantly.  And last but not least, a bubble-level is important to check each stone.  Also, by bridging the level from one stone to the next you can check the “height / pitch” relationship of one stone to the other.

Let’s take another visit to the lake home and landscape project by East Coast Landscape.  In the last post we traveled down natural stone steps alongside a well-built and engineered waterfeature.

We’re now almost to the shoreline and standing on a wide path covered in woodchips.  This path actually travels a roundabout and gradual climb up to the main house.  It serves as both an alternate route for a casual (and longer) stroll, and also provides access for smaller equipment to get closer to the lake.

Combining Natural and Man-Made Elements

It is at this point where the cascading water coming down the rocky slope meets with a natural stream.

Alan Goodell from East Coast Landscape explains how this convergence of the two water features was handled.  At the base of the slope a retention pond was built using more boulders to echo the existing rockery.  Both the natural stream and the constructed waterfall enter into this pond.

While looking like just another natural occurring feature, this engineered pond allows the two water sources to be “managed” properly.  A weir is built below one of the bridges as part of the water management system.  The water flow and level of the pond can be adjusted as needed.

On the other side of the bridge the water exits after flowing over the pond weir.  This last part of the journey for the water before entering the lake is another display of cascades over rockery.

Notice how the plantings between the stone helps to unite the boulder groupings and then visually ties everything in to the surroundings.  I actually had to look closely to distinguish between the natural and man-made parts of the project.

The Beach And Dock Area

From the wood chip path there’s only a short stretch to the lake.  East Coast constructed a wide belgian block ramp that leads to the open-front pavilion.

The belgian block cobble provides a stable, strong surface.  It naturally has a nubby texture for traction and sure-footing.  Belgian block, as a dimensional, thick, heavy paver can conform to the subtleties of the slope.   Also, its gray tones blend well with the surroundings.  I like the way the belgian block pavers combine to meet the flagstone in front of the pavilion.  Different paving elements that connect can be challenging in design.

The pavilion has an open-front and together with the flagstone patio offers a spacious room for all sorts of activities. From the pavilion there are several stone slab-steps to the beach and dock area.

The trek from the house down to the lake was certainly not an effort.  In fact, I wish it had continued!

In design, if you can bring people to a point where they are no longer thinking about the clock and perhaps what else they should be doing, you’ve created something special.

On a project like this it is an appreciation and respect for the surroundings.  The natural conditions are simply too powerful to try and manipulate them in any other way than how they naturally want to be.

Observe and Conceptualize

You probably already have a notion as to what you want or need in your landscape.  And if you’re a designer you’ve probably interviewed the homeowner to understand their desires.  This is important information, but you should not let those wishes (and even requirements) constrain your initial thinking of the site.

Keeping the general goals in mind, especially the functional goals, begin to familiarize yourself with the site.  Taking pictures not only gives you something to refer to when you’re away from the property, but it also forces you to concentrate on the property’s characteristics.

During these initial stages of planning relax about the need to come up with an absolute solution.  Allow yourself the time to think beyond the “want-list”.  For instance, “what do you think the site is asking for”?  When you “conceptualize” freely like this you’re more apt to create solutions beyond the obvious ones.  At the very least you can be content in your final design that you explored the possibilities thoroughly.

Other Features Are Realized

This post continues the coverage of the lakefront home and the beautiful landscape East Coast Landscape Co. created.  My last post on the project showed the drive and some of the front foundation area.

The home sits well above the lake in elevation.  This is often the case on lakefront properties.  As you’d expect, the basic design requirement was to provide everyday access down to the lake.

In the first picture we are three-quarters of the way down to the lake and looking up the rocky slope towards the house.  Although there were some existing rock outcroppings, a good amount of what you see was designed, arranged & installed.The waterfall was engineered and built by East Coast Landscape.  Using the lake as the water source, water is pumped to the top, just under the patio.  There it begins the long descent back down to the lake through carefully arranged rockery.

The elevation change from the house to the lake shore is substantial and therefore, so is the number of steps.  If you think about this trek, you want it to be safe, manageable and enjoyable for everybody – young and old alike.

Steps should be arranged so that landings occur often.  This gives everybody a chance to pause, rest and enjoy the views.

In the second picture above there’s a series of steps.  At the base of this stairway are flagstone stepping stones that expand into a substantial landing area.  The third picture shows the view you have up to the house from this spot.

The hand railings are a safety feature, but also help to give a sense of security, which adds to the enjoyment of the trek.  They are made of iron and were all fabricated right on site.  The iron had to be heated and bent for the handrails to follow the winding steps.  Posts were drilled directly into the stone where necessary.  The brown/bronze color helps to blend the man-made feature with the surroundings.

With the addition of naturalized plantings in many of the nooks and crannies, the entire setting seems as though it has been there all along.  It’s obvious the functional goals were met in this design, but included is a harmony of grades and features that marry the home to the site.

This type of outcome is the result of:

• becoming intimately familiar with the site during the design process
• considering the practical needs (functional goals)
• and then allowing the open-minded thinking that answers the question, ” What is the site asking for?”

I fully appreciate the personal nature of design and the individual approaches we all take.  Feel free to comment with your thoughts and methods to design.  This is great stuff we can all learn from.