No, that’s not a trick question. The obvious answer is “a seat wall is a wall to sit on”. That’s true, but I wanted to bring up some additional aspects of a seat wall.  For instance, what other functions do they serve and what else should you know about them?

In its simplest form a seat wall is generally built at a comfortable sitting height – somewhere around 18″. Like any wall it should be solidly built. The top or “capstone” should be level, substantial and secure. These walls see action – so give them the build integrity to deal with it.

Although many seat walls are built with two finished sides (i.e. front and back), some are also serving as a retaining wall (with one finished side). In the picture above this is the case.  This patio seat wall is supporting a raised garden.

However, as the grade level slopes down, the back of the wall becomes exposed. It’s now necessary to segue into two finished sides (picture at left).

What material options are there to build a seat wall?

Almost any material used for a wall in the landscape would work for a seat wall. But here are a few to consider:

• Natural stone: This is my personal favorite. Natural stone can be dry-stacked or installed with cement.
• Masonry Block With Veneer or Stucco: There are numerous veneers made of real and artificial stone that can be applied over a conventional block wall.  There are also stucco finishes that can be applied.
• Precast Modular Block: These are the manufactured wall systems.  Not my favorite choice for looks because I’m concerned this material will become outdated.

For Design and Purpose

Here are some functions and benefits served by a seat wall besides seating.

• Retaining Wall: I mentioned retaining wall use for the patio design above.
• Create An Outdoor Room: Any vertical element can help suggest a separate space or room.

• Integrate With Another Feature: such as a fire pit, water feature or outdoor kitchen.  You can also use a seat wall as the lower portion of an overhead structure such as a pavilion, gazebo or pergola. In the picture below the cedar posts are integrated into the seat wall build.  They support a cedar shake roof.
• Safety and Containment: If you have a raised patio or terrace, a seat wall around the perimeter can keep people contained and away from the dangerous edge. Make sure you check with the local construction office for building code that might pertain.  Sometimes an additional railing is required depending on code and circumstance.

Here are a few additional ideas to keep in mind.

At the end and at various intervals along the seat wall you can integrate piers.  These piers can help identify entrance points or visually break up the wall line.  Sometimes lighting is installed on the piers.

Decorative planters can also add a nice touch.  They too can be placed to distinguish an entrance or used as an occasional accent.

Capstones are somewhat of an independent element to the seat wall. Consider different capstones as another creative option in designing your wall.  I’ve even used natural stone such as bluestone and limestone to cap precast modular walls.

Construction Matters

You’ll hear the term dry-stack stone wall used. It’s basically a term that means the general construction of the wall does not happen on a concrete footing, but rather on a compacted gravel footing.

The stones are stacked on one another essentially using their position and gravity to lock them in place.  It’s not uncommon to use some mortar to “shim” and set some of the stones, especially the capstone.  Ideally the mortar does not show.

A masonry wall will have a legitimate concrete footing. Whatever material is used to build the wall on that footing (block, brick, stone, etc.) will use mortar to hold the pieces together.

A wall that includes any kind of veneer or stucco must be built on a concrete footing. If not the veneer and stucco can potentially crack and crumble.

Determine early on if lighting, audio or other utilities are part of the design.  If so, the conduits and wiring can be installed within the wall construction.

Drainage should be another consideration. Water and poor drainage can be problematic for construction.

For the structure itself you may want to install a perforated pipe and gravel as part of the base.  Water should never be allowed to collect at the base of the seat wall.

Grading is certainly another part of the drainage solution.  Always try to grade the surrounding areas so that runoff water moves away from the wall.

This is a general overview of seat walls.  There are numerous factors and circumstances that can affect the specific choices and build strategies. As always, check with the local building department to see if a permit is required and what the current wall building codes are.

As I always say and practice, check with the municipal building office for exact pool fence regulations.  There can be aspects of the code that are tweaked or interpreted a certain way and you need to know that.  I find it helpful to bring in a sketch (pictures too) and explain what you intend to do.  Do this early on and you can plan for the fence location and design right from the beginning of your project.

Pictured here is an area of pool fencing recently installed on a project of mine.  There is a change in levels created by a stone wall.  At this height change point the fence installer used a long post to make the transition.

The decorative aluminum fence ended on the top level and the vinyl coated chainlink fence picked-up at the lower level.  Everything should meet pool fence regulations…so we thought.

The inspector pointed out 2 issues needing attention:

1. An extension of the upper level fence is required where the height transition occurs.  This is to discourage a person from being able to use the top of the stone wall as a height advantage to climb over the fence.  Hmmm…good point!
2. The spacing between pickets on the decorative fence was over 4″ at two points.  The normal sections of this manufactured fence have consistent 4″ spacing.  This short section was cut to fit this narrow space and the end result was a 4 1/2″ space at one end, and a 4 1/4″ space at the other.  Hmmm…a bit of a stickler, wouldn’t you say?

The solutions to meet pool fence regulations:

1. For the extension piece in the height transition area the fence installer used a top rail secured at an angle with additional chainlink mesh.  This “angled” top rail solution is very strong by design.
2. For the fractional spacing issues on the decorative picket fence, a piece of chainlink mesh was attached.

Note: I don’t think there is a better color choice than black for a fence that you wish less noticed in the landscape.

Other Pool Fence Regulations To Be Aware Of

Fortunately these issues were easy to fix and the inspector appreciated the fact we had made the effort in every other regard to “get it right”.  This goes back to my point about visiting the town construction office at the early planning stage and discuss your intentions – priceless in terms of saving time and minimizing hassles.

Here are a few other pool fence regulations that are part of the BOCA (Building Officials and Code Administrators) pool safety codes.

• The pool fence must be at least 48″ high.
• If there are vertical pickets and horizontal rails, the distance between the horizontal rails can not be greater than 45″.
• The space between the ground and the fence can not be greater than 4″.
• Gates that are part of the pool fence enclosure must open out, away from the pool.
• Gates that are part of the pool fence enclosure must be self-closing and latching.
• All pool gate latches should be at least 54″ from the ground.

Sometimes these pool fence regulations are a matter of interpretation depending on the circumstance.  Have you ever had “a difference” of interpretation with an inspector?  How did that turn out?  Let us know in the comments.  We can all learn from these experiences.

Why Consider Masonry Steps Over Wood?

Whether you are deciding on steps as part of new construction or to replace existing wood steps, these are 3 aspects to consider:

1. Longevity
2. Upkeep & maintenance
3. Safety

Longevity.  I often mention the wearing affects of exposure and the outdoor elements on everything in the landscape.   From a practical sense this should be on your mind constantly.

This first picture shows the existing wood steps in a renovation project of this older home.  Over the years the wood has fought a noble battle against the elements, but it’s taken its toll.  Whereas the masonry fieldstone foundation and wing-walls are in great shape.

Upkeep and Maintenance.  There are certainly well-made wooden steps constructed of the best wood-types for outdoor use, but they still require regular care.  Some are painted while others have a wood sealer applied.

How often this maintenance has to be done varies (depending on exposure and the elements), but some homeowners will do it as frequently as once a year.

Safety.  All steps no matter what they’re made of have to be looked at from a safety standpoint.  Building codes have specific guidelines in that regard.

Here, however, I’m referring to the slipperiness of the step treads.  In fact, the homeowner of this house was saying how dangerous the wood steps were when wet.

Masonry Stone Steps Solve These Concerns

Replacing the old wood steps with masonry stone steps was a “no-brainer”.  The homeowner loved the look and the fact that these steps will outlast us all.  Equally convincing was the ease of maintenance (what maintenance?) and safety.  No slippery surface on these treads!

The decorative railing is aluminum with a powder-coat painted finish.  This too was chosen to last a long time with minimal care.

So, is it good-bye wood steps in the landscape?

Of course not.  Beyond the point of just personal preference, objectively speaking there are situations where wood steps “just work”.  For example, in many wood deck designs the steps are an integral part of the look (see below).

Good design should weigh all possibilities along with their pros and cons.  After that you can make the decision that works best for you.P.S. I just wanted to mention Lester Szajna (stone mason and contributor here on LandscapeAdvisor) built the stone steps pictured above.  He searched and found fieldstone to match the existing stonework, and tinted the mortar to help the match as well.

One thing you learn from doing landscape renovation projects is what works and what doesn’t.  The test of time will often determine if something was built correctly or not.

And because our work is outside, never underestimate the affects of  mother nature on the materials you choose and how they are “put together”.  Sun exposure, shade, moisture, temperature, wind, soil type, drainage – these are just some of natures’ forces working against your creations.

Dave Kennedy of Lavelle Farms is handling all aspects of the exterior renovation of this home.  He has recommended to the homeowner a classic bluestone walkway.

This front walkway is one of several hardscape features the family want done as part of phase 1 in this renovation.

Base Prep – Step 1 To Building It Right

I’ll bet most people have heard the advice: “Build it on a good foundation”.  Truer words have never been spoken.

For a “dry-set” bluestone walkway, the base the bluestone sits on is essentially its foundation.

A dry-set bluestone walkway relies on a thick, compacted aggregate base that drains well.

What you’re walkway doesn’t want is:

• moisture building up underneath the stone.  Water can contribute to unstable conditions, and if it freezes can “heave” the surface stones out of position.
• loose or organic soil as part of the sub-base.  The earth that you ultimately build your walkway’s base on should be compacted sub-soil.  Top soils containing organics (such as leaf litter, roots, etc.) should never be used.  Soils like that should be removed.

After excavating for the bluestone walkway the sub-soil is compacted with a vibratory plate compactor.  Dave uses stringlines as a constant reference during construction.

All specifics such as walkway pitch and number of steps are worked out in the designing phase.

After sub-soil compaction Mirafi filter fabric is laid at the bottom and sides to keep the base material from mixing with the sub-soil.  In the picture above 3/4″ clean gravel is dumped onto the fabric to start the bluestone walkway base.

Do not add more than 6″ of base gravel at a time without compacting.

To set the actual bluestone a smaller diameter gravel is layered on top of the coarser gravel.  This smaller gravel also drains well and is easier to adjust when setting each stone.

The bluestone walkway is 5′ wide to comfortably handle two people walking side by side.  I would suggest not going under 4′ wide for a “primary” walkway.

The 2 steps are each solid bluestone with consistent 6″ risers.  Dave “hand-tooled” the sides to get the natural rock-faced look.

Natural Stone – A Good Choice

The final choice for the walkway’s surface should combine considerations for:

• Style and look.
• Function and durability.
• Cost to value.

This is a decision you’ll live with for some time.  Also, it could be a factor when and if you sell the house.  In terms of style, choose a material that’s classic and timeless.

Thinking again about the affects of nature over the long haul, is this material able to stand the test of time?  Will the color change or fade?  Will the actual material break down and fragment?  Is it slippery when wet?  Easy to shovel snow off?

In terms of cost to value it’s important to identify those features that are important to you and get proposals that will give those results.  You can then make the decision as to whether this cost is justified for your circumstance.

Natural stone always makes a good choice.  Certainly there are some bad choices among the natural stones too, but generally they offer timeless style, durability and good value.

Stone steps come in all styles.  Essentially their role is to get you from one level to another.

In good landscape design, how stone steps look is as important as how they function.  Frankly, that should be the case of every element in a well-designed landscape.

When we speak of the function for steps, it’s important to realize if these steps are the only option to get from one level to another.  Or, are there alternative ways in the design.

And if there are alternative ways, what role of importance will these particular steps provide?

If the area to access is important and only one set of steps is used, then they have to conform to the features of any safe and frequently used stairway.  In fact, depending on the situation, you may be subject to building code parameters.  As always, it’s smart to be up to speed on these regulations.

In the project pictured above there is a pool and patio level on top and a cobble-like paver walkway below.  There are 3 alternative ways to get from this lower level to the pool.

1. Near the driveway and where guests would enter the backyard there is a “primary” set of masonry steps with stone veneer risers and bluestone step treads.   I call them primary because this is the main set of steps to the area.

These masonry steps meet every requirement for safety including a handrail.  They did require a construction permit and were inspected.

2. At the other end of the pool/patio, the lower grade was sloped up to meet the patio.  This alternate access is grass and allows for an “easy-go” if you’re wheeling something or would just rather not navigate steps.

3. In between the masonry steps and the sloped lawn access we planned to have boulders and plantings to retain the earth.  While setting the boulders it came to us to offer a 3rd alternate access to the homeowner.  They have children who we thought would love a “rock-climbing-like” step/path down to the cobble walkway.  (See the first picture).

The Type Of Stone Step You Build Should Relate To Its Use

Here’s why these “rough” fieldstone steps work:

• they are not the only access
• they provide a  novel experience for the young & adventuresome.  (Not to say the older folks can’t give them a go too.)
• they add interest to the garden

These “rough” stone steps in the first picture were simply picked out of a stockpile of fieldstone boulders that were delivered.  By selecting rocks with flatter sides, “stone steps were born”.

If you wanted to have an informal and natural set of steps, but with a bit more consistency, stone slab-steps are available.  As seen in the picture to the right, these steps are more angular and come from the quarry in slabs.

Although they’re not dimensionally the same, you can request certain size ranges and that helps with building stone steps to fit your plan and vision.

To make the rise-height of each step the same, you can adjust the “setting bed” (usually gravel) to make the stone sit higher or lower.

There are other techniques which involve cutting the stone with a diamond blade to make it fit the situation.  I’m sure in future posts I’ll be able to show you some of these persuasive techniques.

Stone step design is only limited by your imagination.  How have you utilized rocks into stairways?  Let us know in the comments below.

PVC Conduit

The rigid, Sch. 40 PVC pipe shown in this picture is most often used for electrical wire -  like  THHN conductor wire that cannot be buried directly in the ground.  However, there’s no reason you can’t run other types of wire (and things) through this conduit too.

Rigid PVC conduit like this comes in various diameters along with numerous types of “fittings” and connectors to accommodate most any situation.  With a combination of these fittings and special PVC glue you can create a sealed environment to protect the wires and splices inside.

Earlier I mentioned the use of poly pipe as a conduit.  I’m referring to the black poly pipe used in underground sprinkler work.

Poly Sprinkler Pipe As A Conduit

Poly Pipe – Handy, Cheap and Effective

If your a landscape contractor, odds are good you have this kind of pipe on-hand anyway.  Perhaps you do sprinkler systems as part of your service offering.  At the very least you should have it on hand for:

• Repairs -  You’d have to call yourself supernatural if you’ve never broken a sprinkler line during a dig-operation.
• Sprinkler Modification -  It’s inevitable that an existing sprinkler head has to be moved because of a new plant or hardscape install.  Or how about an underground poly pipe running right where “something new” has to go.  You’ll need to piece-in an additional section to go around the new feature.
• Conduits -  Poly pipe provides a cheap and effective conduit for many situations.

In the picture above we’re using poly (sprinkler) pipe as a conduit for our low voltage lighting wire.

We installed these poly pipe “runs” early on in the project at a particular time when other utility trenches were open and final grades were not yet established.  We utilized the other open trenches and easily dug to other locations without “tip-toeing” around finished or semi-finished areas.

To do this it’s important you have a detailed landscape plan that illustrates:

• light fixture and tranformer locations
• specific, calculated cable runs
• locations of all other proposed features and elements

With this information you can safely locate your conduit without fear of running into it later on.

Multiple Conduit Runs

Notice how pipe ends are bent over to insure dirt does not enter.

The colored marking tape tells the story as to which pipe goes where and what it’s for.  Write down the “color-key legend” on your plan.  When the time comes to pull wire through these conduits, you’ll know exactly which conduits do what.

These simple conduit runs can save you headaches, work and your client money if you think creatively and strategically, especially in the early stages of your project.

We actually installed additional conduit runs for speaker wire that would be pulled through in the future for rock speakers.

How have you used conduit in different ways?  Feel free to comment below.

Let me first suggest tell you that you need to measure the elevations (vertical heights) in the area your designing your walk and/or steps.  Grades & pitch can be very deceptive.  Even after 30 years experience I will not “go by eye” on this one. It’s suggested that the maximum slope for walks be 10%.  Or, in other words, 12″ of rise over 10′ of walk.

In my opinion, walks should not exceed a 5% slope (or 12″ of rise over 20′ of walk).  Often it comes down to personal preference.  So if you’re building this walk for someone, make sure they understand what you’re proposing.  More on how to show them your idea(s) in a bit.

In the first picture the walkway seems to be pitched around 12″ over 10′ of walk (or 10%).  The entrance to this walkway (2nd picture) appears to be even steeper.

Now here I am telling you to always measure elevations and I can’t give you the specifics on this walk.  That’s because it’s not my project and I didn’t want to get arrested for trespassing. (I’m losing my sense of adventure.)

With exact elevation measurements you can calculate your different design concepts and compare them to one another.

You can always first consider some “creative” re-grading, but often “steps” are the best way to mitigate a steep walkway.

Seeing Is Believing

Most people have a hard time visualizing things.  I use mock-ups of all kinds to help others and myself really see what’s planned and possible.

I’ll sometimes illustrate an idea for a walkway and/or steps using stakes and a string line.  When set up exactly at the proposed heights, they show the profile of the walk’s surface (pitch) and the risers & treads of the steps.  This let’s the homeowner (and myself) see how it will potentially look.  I find that this simple mock-up always clears up any uncertainty and prevents any design regrets after construction.

Things To Consider When Building Landscape Steps

• Do not compromise on the base for the steps.  If they are masonry steps you should have a concrete footing according to local code.  If they are dry-set steps (stone, cast concrete or timber) you should have a well-compacted aggregate base.  Nothing is worse than steps that “move” over time because of poor base and footing work.
• For landscape steps the riser should be greater than 4″, but no more than 6 ½”.  There are always going to be exceptions, but try to stay within these parameters.
• Here’s a simple formula for calculating the riser height and tread length:  2 (riser) + tread = 26″.   For example, if the riser is going to be 6″, then : 2 (6) + 14 = 26″.   So the tread should be 14″.  Again, use this as a “guideline”.
• Where steps return into the surrounding sloped grade, make sure the step has “finished” sides that are nice to look at.  On the same note, make sure the sloped sides of earth are stabilized to support & conceal the base work for the steps.  Groundcover, grass and even decorative boulders can help with this.

Planning landscape steps and walks really supports the idea that form should follow function.  And yet personal preference always plays a part in the final solution.  What say you?  Feel free to comment.

We are losing trees everyday to construction damage.  For the most part, people are simply not aware of the different ways construction impacts trees.

If we think of damage at all, it usually means the obvious such as hitting the trunk or breaking a branch.  However, many construction activities that happen near and around a tree can have an adverse affect as well.

Proactive Planning Saves Trees

With research we have come to understand the complexities of how plants live.  We know how every aspect of their environment is linked to their health.

Sound familiar?  They are living things – just like us.

With this knowledge and understanding we can make decisions and do things proactively to protect trees.

Imagine this scenario.  A new home is planned on property that has beautiful, existing trees.  The homeowner and architect both appreciate the value of the trees and want to consider how they can be integrated into the overall plan.  Yes, some must be removed, but by considering the trees’ well-being right from the planning stage, steps can be taken to protect select ones.  This seems so logical, yet it’s rarely done.

From the homeowner’s perspective, and to be fair, it’s often a matter of just not knowing.  However, when it comes to those “professionals” who are planning and doing the work, we need to see more interest in protecting our trees.

One argument is that this “tree hugging” adds to the costs.  It’s been my experience that when you advise people on the value of their trees and how important it is to take these proactive steps, they often go along with your recommendations.

Many of these steps to protect trees add very little cost – they just require more care in how the construction work is done.

Things You Can Do To Protect Your Trees

The simplest step you can take is to stay as far away as possible from the tree(s).  The surrounding ground represents a balanced environment of soil layers and roots.  Setting up a temporary fence, stakes or markers can really help as reminders to “stay back”.

If construction traffic must go near the trees and root zones, use a thick layer of wood chips and/or plywood to make a protective road.

Construction often means re-grading an area near existing trees and other plants.  Realize that disturbing and changing existing grades can impact drainage, a major aspect of plant health.

Being aware and taking steps to mitigate these problems by using drainage tactics, retainment walls and other means can make the difference in the plants’ survival.

Tree Damage Beyond the Obvious

All living things, including plants, have complex systems.  Damage to these systems can come from different sources and affects.

The heat from construction equipment can damage plants.  Vapor and over-spray from cleansers and other solutions can hurt plants.  These substances can even be taken into the plant’s system through leaves, stems and roots.

If you remove some trees and plants from an area it will likely change the environment for those remaining.  More light and wind will come in; perhaps even erosion will occur.  Just pruning and thinning out trees can also cause more light and wind to enter an area.

A major landscape project with grading, construction and planting can impact existing trees and plants big time.  The installation of an automatic sprinkler system will undoubtedly change moisture levels in the ground.  If these existing plants are not acclimated to this moisture change, it could have an adverse affect on them.

There is alot to consider when doing construction near existing trees and plants.  The intrinsic value of their beauty and contribution to the environment makes it a no-brainer IMO.

If you’re worried about your trees and plants because of a construction project, leave a comment and maybe we can advise.

I’m Talking Simple

We all know there should be detailed landscape plans for major projects, but I’m talking about those times when a plan may not be absolutely necessary….but it sure would help.

Look, you don’t have to wear a beret & smock to get a plan on paper.  And don’t worry about drawing “to scale” – it’s not necessary.  An 8.5 X 11″ unlined piece of paper and you’re good to go.

Click to enlarge

To the right is a simple plan I did to illustrate a solution for roof water soaking the foundation area of this house.

Why even draw a landscape plan?  Why not just take a few notes and measurements?

A Landscape Plan Helps Contractors and Homeowners Alike

When you sketch out your planned solution, you naturally think things through more thoroughly.  You instinctively go through the anticipated job phases and show them on the drawing as they would occur.  It’s like a “dry-run,” verifying (to yourself) that your proposed solution will fit together and work.

No doubt you’ll measure, check that grades & pitch will “cooperate” and look for sprinklers and other potential obstacles.  This plan & sketch process gives you a true sense of the materials and labor needed to complete the job.  Now you can confidently estimate the work.

The homeowner will appreciate the sketch.  It really helps them visualize your ideas and solution.  Your drawing demonstrates that you’ve thought this thing through.  The homeowner can see that your estimate corresponds with the sketch.

A Landscape Plan Ensures Everybody Is On The Same Page

As a project manager, if there’s one fundamental goal to strive for it’s “make sure everybody is on the same page,” and nothing helps to do that better than a sketch or plan.

• A simple plan gives the contractor, a foreman and/or the crew a visual reference.  We’ve all seen how sometimes the verbal message gets misunderstood.
• A simple plan provides a reliable reference for the materials, tools and equipment needed for the job.  For any job, especially the smaller ones, not bringing the right materials & equipment can kill productivity (and morale).
• A simple plan can have site-specific and ‘as-built’ notes that can be filed for future reference.  Did you ever go back to a job and wish you could remember exactly where that underground pipe is or where the crew installed the sleeve under the patio?

The short time it takes to prepare a simple landscape plan can pay huge dividends.  Efficiency and productivity are things we all want.

Oh, and one last point.  A simple plan can be copied to give out to those “with a need to know”.  The simple sketch pictured above I scanned as a PDF file and emailed to the homeowner.  Everyone benefits in numerous ways by using better methods of communication, like a “simple plan”.

This could actually be a continuation of my last post on installing flagstone in grass.

While setting the new flagstone path we came across a soggy area of lawn at the bottom of a stone stairway.  The homeowner said this area was usually wet.

Looking the situation over with landscape contractor Dave Kennedy, we determined that the water was “weeping-out” from the gravel footing of the stone steps.

The gravel footing was doing its job of keeping moisture away from the stone stairway construction.  However, because of the grade of the lawn level at the top of the stairs, extra water from run-off was entering the stairway construction.

In effect, the gravel footing was acting like a drainage seepage-pit for this upper lawn water.  The volume of water was too much to naturally drain into the subsoil and was causing this soggy condition at the base of the stairs.

Planning A Solution

Water is an amazing force.  It is powerful and relentless.  With this in mind your solutions should be designed to work with waters’ natural tendencies.

The excess water was draining from the gravel footing successfully.  The solution to the soggy lawn and area was to “intercept” the water at the base of the gravel footing where it was exiting the stairs and divert it.

Excavation for "intercept" drain

The tactic to intercept water and divert it is the core of most drainage solutions.

In this situation 4″ perforated pipe will be used to “intercept” the water, and solid pipe will carry it to a safe, open area.

In the picture to the left Dave’s crew has already trenched from where the water will exit and are now nearing the steps.  As the trench reaches the steps it begins to fill with water.

Water will seek the path of least resistance and the open trench is now that. The piping, when installed, will provide a permanent avenue and relief for the water.

How This Drain Is Put Together

The perforated pipe (with holes) and the solid pipe (w/o holes) are the same size and made of the same material.  In order to use the perforated and solid pipe together we’ll connect the two with a “coupling”.

Perforated drain pipe in gravel & filter fabric

It’s important to note that the bottom of the entire trench has pitch of at least 1/8″ per foot away from the stairs.

Filter fabric is used to line the bottom and sides of the trench in front of the stairs.  A section of perforated drain pipe is laid into the trench and surrounded with 3/8″ gravel.  The fabric insures no silt or soil will enter into this gravel/pipe zone.

Just past the stairs we convert to solid pipe using the coupling.

In the picture to the right you see the filter fabric which has been folded over the gravel.  Just past the stairs the fabric ends – this is where the perforated pipe converts to solid.

The trench with the solid drain pipe is backfilled carefully with earth.  It’s important while backfilling to check that the pipe sits solidly on the bottom of the trench and has pitch.

The solid pipe exits to an open space where the water can drain naturally.  We’re using smaller fieldstones (4 – 6″ dia.) to build around this pipe end.  This rockwork will help secure and protect the end of the pipe.

"Intercept" drain ready for flagstone

The Drains’ Finishing Details

If you’ll remember, before we got involved with this drainage issue Dave’s crew was installing a flagstone path in the lawn.  Well, nothing has changed.

The filter fabric was kept 4″ below finished grade so 2″ of gravel could be added to set the flagstone.

With the flagstone set over the drainage work, the rest of the path went in by the normal process.

All the disturbed areas were finish-graded, sod was placed back including between the flagstone pieces, and you would never know the drainage solution had ever happened.

Every water problem has its own unique characteristics and circumstances.  The solutions will be equally unique, however the concept remains the same.  You’re not stopping the water, you’re “managing” it.