It is deciduous, but considered a 4 season plant mainly because:

• It has lush dark green leaves.

• It flowers white in early summer.

• It has bright yellow fall color and cinnamon colored exfoliating bark.

As you can see it’s a great plant, but you need to be aware of its capabilities.

The first year or two it grows slow while it establishes. Then the pace picks up and it becomes quite vigorous.

As a climber I’ve yet to see its limit in height. Planted at the base of a large tree it will cling and climb until it reaches the top. I’m talking 60′ no problem.

The good news is you can control climbing hydrangea with proper pruning. But I say that with a warning.  If you use it in a limited space, like the one we’re about to talk about, you must be diligent with your pruning or it will easily take over the area.

It’s Doing Well – Too Well!

How do you respond to a customer that says that to you?

“I’m glad your climbing hydrangea is doing well, but sorry it’s covering your house.”

You can avoid those embarassing moments by knowing a plant’s capability right from the start.  Then you can advise your customer what to expect, how they can care for it or how others will care for it.

In the picture above climbing hydrangea is working well on this brick wall. But the plant wants to get bigger, as it does every year. It’s in its DNA.

Notice that the real dominant growth is towards the top. It wants to climb and get as tall as it can. I’ve used climbing hydrangea on homes where it is maintained just below the second story eaves. Not easy to do, but the look is beautiful.

How To Go About Controlling This Climber

The best time to prune climbing hydrangea is after it flowers.

The new flower buds are formed soon after flowering and remain on those stems for the following year. So you’d rather not cut those off if possible.

However, unless you operate with a “calendar of tasks” for your maintenance accounts, you will most likely prune the hydrangea when you’re there pruning everything else.

So regardless of when you prune climbing hydrangea, cut back the long shoots and those growing outward from the wall to just above a bud or leaf point. Prune selectively using hand pruners.

Often I’ll follow an aggressively growing branch to its “point of origin” and make my cut there.  This is the point where the lateral branch connects to a larger stem.

This climber produces “aerial roots” that attach themselves to whatever structure is nearby. When first planted you may have to help it attach to the structure by:

• Installing the plant so it deliberately leans and touches the wall or structure.

• Tying some of the main branches to the wall or structure temporarily till they attach. Several materials and methods will do this, but be careful these ties don’t constrict around the branches.

These aerial roots will sometimes leave a mark and organic residue on the surface after they attach. On this home some of the branches attached to the white shutters. It took extra time and effort to scrub them clean.

Like with all plants, when you know and understand their characteristics you can use them creatively and effectively. How have you used climbing hydrangea in your landscapes?  Did it perform as you expected or surprise you?  Let us know in the comments.

Today I planted and arranged fall flowers at my house.  While rushing to get that chore done so I could move on to the next, it hit me.  Maybe some of you folks could use some tips on this.

How can I work underneath a wide plant and keep my sanity?

Right?  It can be a real nuisance “getting down in there”.  In this instance it’s a mum, one of the popular fall flowers.

The idea is simple.  Carefully tie up and bundle the branches so you can see what you’re doing.  Frankly, this trick applies to working underneath and around many types of plants.

Remember to mark the nicest side (face) of the mum before tying it up.  A little piece of string works great for this.

I’m using a piece of Arbor Tie to tie up the mum.  It’s wider than string and very soft.  For delicate plants (like a mum), something like this works great.  I’ve also rolled up a piece of burlap and tied that around the plant.  You get the idea.

How to keep top-heavy fall flowers from falling over.

Frequently we arrange fall flowers just in their nursery pots above ground.  These seasonal arrangements can get very creative by arranging the plants at different heights and positions.  How often, though, do you see them tipped over?

Here’s a simple fix.  Use 3 bamboo garden stakes per mum to “stake” them in place.

Push each bamboo stake through a drainage hole up from the bottom.  Angle the stake in a bit so you stay in the “meat” of the root ball.

Let them stick out the bottom 1/2″ or so and set the plant where you like it.  Push each stake down into the ground and/or hay bale.  Prune off the excess bamboo on top.

Seasonal arrangements, like with fall flowers, add something special for that time of year.  But like everything else in the landscape, there’s a practical and functional side.

Mums and other fall flowers must be kept moist.  By planting them in either the ground or larger planters you slow down the moisture loss.

For those you arrange above ground the bamboo staking method ensures they stay put.  Just be aware that these plants will require more frequent waterings.

For those in the trade, you don’t want to be spending more time than you have to on these seasonal arrangements.  But, like always, the results are important.  Use these tricks to make things easier on you.  Plus, you’ll get fewer call backs, more happy customers and possibly the greatest compliment of all…referrals.

There are so many creative ideas out there for seasonal displays.  If you’re into it, feel free to share any techniques or styles you may use in the comments.

The answer is obvious – if a plant dies the company that installed it must replace it.

Of course that’s the main reason to want a guarantee.  But I don’t think we choose a product or service just because it has a guarantee.  Most of us want a “quality” product or service, and then if the product or service has a problem, it’s taken care of under guarantee.

But no matter how good a plant guarantee is, it’s still a hassle to go through the process.  Typically you call the company; they have to send someone out to look, schedule the replacements, make sure they have the right plants…you know how that goes.  Yes, eventually the plants are replaced (mmm, most of the time), but it’s still something we’d all rather avoid.

Now I have to say, there are landscape companies out there that respond very well to guarantee issues.  In fact, I know of some companies that check their more recent projects and spot plants needing replacement before the homeowner does.  Rare, yes, but they do exist.

A good landscape company confidently stands by and fulfills its plant guarantee obligations. How are they able to do this?  They control plant loss with:

• Knowledge of plant types and planting design
• Ability to find and identify quality plants
• Knowledge of soil types, drainage and other influential conditions
• Knowledge of installation practices for varying conditions & circumstances

A company that operates at this level can be confident that their plant losses will be minimal.

A poor landscape company will struggle with a plant guarantee because of constant plant losses.  The picture above tells a grim story.

Not one of these nine arborvitae survived.  Why?

The exposure is directly south.  The planting area is elevated behind a wall.  There’s an asphalt parking lot in front.  I’m feeling hot and thirsty just thinking about it!

The first thing that should come to mind in this situation is: “Brutal conditions.  What can I design to sustain in this environment?”

Yes arborvitae like sun, but they prefer moist conditions.  If they struggle with dryness and challenging conditions (like these) they are doomed to failure.  Even if they somehow survived they’d be stressed and predisposed to numerous ailments.

No Worries… There’s A Plant Guarantee!

Yes, I suppose there is.  Although these have been dead for awhile.  Let’s give the landscape company the benefit of the doubt.  They’re waiting for the “fall planting season” to replace them.  I wonder if they’re going to replace them with more arborvitae?

When I say a plant guarantee is only as good as the landscaper behind it, I don’t mean to imply quality of character.  It is very likely this landscaper had and will continue to have the best of intentions.

The lesson here is don’t get false hope just because there’s a guarantee.  Do your “due diligence” and make sure a good, knowledgeable company goes along with that plant guarantee.

There are many plant guarantee stories out there.  Have any good ones?  Let us know in the comments.

How often we look at a situation and think, “I just need a mounded-form plant that’s nice and full; that I can rely on.”  (It sounds like what a plant would request with a dating service.)

Cherry Laurel ‘Otto Luyken’ is the variety I’m referring to.  Its characteristics consistently satisfy the needs and wants in my designs.

Qualities and characteristics.

Hardy in zones 6 to 8, this Cherry Laurel has a compact spreading habit with lush, glossy, dark green leaves.  It usually grows to around 3 – 4′ high and 6 – 8′ wide.  This is such useful shape and size in planting design.

The white flowers show in April and May for a couple of weeks depending on weather and geographic location.

Although there is a small, purple – black fruit after flowering, it’s hard to find within the thick foliage.

As far as exposure goes, I’ve used Cherry Laurel in sun and it has stood up well.  Given the choice the plant will generally prefer partial shade to shade.

Most broadleaf evergreens like rich, organic soil that’s  moist, but well-drained.  Like I’ve said many times before (I can’t help it – this is so important), moist does not mean wet, and well-drained means…well-drained!

Cherry Laurel does not like wet, heavy soil.  So check out the soil condition.  Amend it if you have to.  Be conscious of planting in low areas where water might collect.  Planting height is always a concern so make sure the top of the ball is slightly above existing grade.  Plant higher if in doubt, and leave room for mulch.

Oh, here’s 2 other qualities worth noting.  Cherry Laurel has been found to be deer resistant.  Now this may vary depending on where you are because we all know this “deer resistance” thing is not an exact science.  In my area the deer won’t bother it.

Cherry Laurel will also tolerate salt spray for you shore area designer / gardeners.

Use and design.

This picture shows Cherry Laurel used “en masse” as an understory to an old stand of Canadian Hemlock.  Notice the filtered light they’re getting.  We used 5′ spacing allowing them to eventually touch.

In the first picture at the top it’s another setting with filtered light.  You can see again how well they “mass”…this time it’s a group of 3.  The pachysandra groundcover fills in space without competing with the laurel.  This strategy works well when the planting is young and you might have alot of open space to deal with.

Foundation plantings, borders, you name it.  On a slope it can work well too because the spreading habit conveys a horizontal to downward feeling which diminishes the slope.

If you haven’t tried Cherry Laurel ‘Otto Luyken’ give it a go.  Just make sure the conditions meet its cultural requirements.  For those who have used the plant, please let us know how in the comments.  And if it’s been in the ground for awhile, “How’s it growing?”

When I use the term “core” I’m referring to the center of the plant’s root ball.  A nursery plant that’s been dug, balled & burlapped (B&B) is now totally reliant on that root ball to keep it alive.

One of the major concerns of everyone handling and caring for that plant should be to keep the root ball adequately moist all the way through to its center or “core”.

Here’s why that’s so important.  Undoubtedly all nursery plants will have their “ups and downs” with moisture availability due to varying conditions and circumstances.  Typically the root ball will begin to dry on the exterior.  If moisture is not provided, the dryness will continue towards the center.

If the dryness travels too far into the root ball:

1. In all likelihood the plant will be severely stressed and damage will occur.
2. Restoring moisture back “to the center” of the root ball can be slow and difficult.

The trick is to not let the root ball get to that point.

If you watch and monitor the moisture levels of your nursery plants (whether they’re above ground or planted) :

• It’s easier to maintain consistent moisture throughout the root ball.  Dry soil can become “hydrophobic,” making it very hard to re-wet.

• You avoid plant stress that could be irreversible.  Yes plants often bounce back from early stages of dryness, but if the dryness is prolonged and represents drying “to the core” it’s not good.

How To Maintain Moisture Levels

Consistency is the name of the game.  If the nursery plant is being stored above ground, it is that much more challenging because the root ball is exposed to sun & wind.  Whether you’re watering by hand, sprinklers or a drip system designed for nursery stock, be vigilant.

If the tree has been planted, consistency is still key, but being in the ground helps tremendously (no pun intended).  The earth protects the root ball and insulates to help moderate temps. and slow moisture loss.  Still, the plant is losing moisture through its leaves (transpiration) and the soil is gradually draining & drying.

Sprinklers will work  for the most part, but again, consistency is key.  The watering must work its way from the surface down to the “core” of the root ball.  With a steady watering schedule the moisture level should be maintained through all the soil levels.

Sod staples hold pipe to the ground

During these hot summer months in particular, we’ve been using 2 watering methods to ensure our larger, recently installed plants are kept moist “to the core”.

The pictures above show basic, store-bought soaker hose being used.  I’ve coiled a 50′ length around the base of this newly planted tree using sod staples to hold the hose down.

The root ball on this plant is 42″ wide.  It’s imperative this tree stay moist to the center of the root ball.

Every few days the homeowner connects a regular water hose to the soaker and lets it run for just 10 minutes.  We found that this schedule during this hot, dry weather is adequate to keep the root ball moist.

The other method we use is the “Treegator”.  The one in the picture holds 20 gals. of water.  It’s designed with a zipper from top to bottom so you can wrap it around the trunk.

Treegator

With the Treegator the concept is that the water-bag (or reservoir) be filled with a hose and then allowed to drain gradually by itself.  It can take several hours for the bag to empty.

Both these methods concentrate water directly over the root ball where it can seep in without much “runoff”.

I should mention that it’s equally important to monitor the moisture levels below the ground while these watering methods are being used.  Keeping the plant moist is important, but “over-watering” can have damaging affects on plants.

Irrigation is such an important part of plant health and it seems the least understood.  I’m going to continue to write about it in the hopes that this basic fundamental of plant care is better understood and practiced.

There are so many “tricks of the trade” and techniques for watering.  If you have one I’d love to hear about it in the comments.

Two of the functions of good planting design that work together to marry the house to the site are:

1. to complement the home
2. to have the home appear integrated (connected) to its surroundings

There are certainly other functions accomplished by good planting design, like creating spaces, directing views and traffic, screening, etc.   But this “complementing and integrating the house to the site” is major.

In the picture above, this house is desperate for both hardscape and landscape planting design.  The house dominates the relatively narrow property and to make matters worse, the grade drops off steadily on the right.

We know this house is “off-balance” and the right side is just dominating the view with its tall expanse of siding and windows.

You’re probably thinking what I first thought.  Why couldn’t there be a huge 80′ shade tree on the right side front?   Can you imagine how that would change the whole picture?

It was not to be.  The new homeowners had come from a previous property that had loads of large trees and they did not “want to go there…again”.

Think long-term, think work-in-progress.

I mentioned it before in previous posts – these landscapes are works-in-progress.  Provided you do a professional job from day one, odds are good you’ll be adding to and modifying this landscape in the future.  For example, I’m thinking that someday I’ll be helping this homeowner select a nice, big shade tree for the right side front.

But in the meantime…

Never underestimate the effectiveness of mid-size ornamental trees, especially in close proximity to the house.

The homeowner welcomed the idea of ornamental trees.  I suggested Purpleleaf Plum off the right front corner.  It’s planted approximately 15′ from the building giving it room to develop.

Now brace yourself because I recommended Japanese Red Maple for the side of the house.  I know what you’re thinking: “What are you crazy?  There isn’t much room for that tree to grow!”

Before you report me to the “Better Plant Use Bureau” let me explain.  Japanese Maple is one of those trees that by shape and form is very “malleable “.  What I mean is the growth habit and branch structure respond and react really well to pruning.

Oh, and one more point to make with regard to using the maple close to the house.  We searched for this plant looking for a particular shape and branch structure.  It stands about 18′ high.  Dave Kennedy, our contributing landscape contractor, used one of his mechanical tree spades to dig the plant and place it in a wire basket.  A skid steer was used to bring it to the planting spot.

The house has a home.

The two ornamental trees add much needed weight to the right side of the house.  Their height breaks up the broad expanse of  the windows and siding.  Notice how the tree canopies soften the transition from the flat plane of the property to the vertical lines of the building.

I should mention too the improved psychological feeling particularly when you drive or walk down the driveway.  Just having the tree branching reaching out overhead helps immensely to make you feel more comfortable.

The foliage colors, flowering and textures of the trees and the understory plantings complement the home.  Add 2 to 3 years of growth with proper care and this home will be even more integrated with its surroundings.

Lily of the Valley is one of those ground covers you may not always think to use.  Yet it is one of the easiest to grow, can spread like crazy and needs hardly any care.  I know, you’re probably thinking “Why am I not using more of this plant?”.

In case you’re not familiar with Lily of the Valley (Convallaria majalis), here’s some plant profile information on this gem.

It is perennial and therefore dies down to the ground each year before winter.  Bonus! This makes leaf clean-up much easier than having to rake out a bed of pachysandra in the fall.

Lily of the Valley grows to about 8″ high (although there are some taller varieties) and spreads by rhizomes.  These underground stems grow laterally and then push up shoots (sometimes called “pips”) to form new leaves.

Because it’s a fairly aggressive spreader, I’m careful where I plant it.  For instance, don’t try to mix it into a bed with other perennials – it will easily over-run the others.  However, it does mix and coexist well with other woody plants like Rhododendron and Viburnum.  In fact, that’s a great look in a woodland setting.

Lily of the Valley prefers shade to partial shade, but it will tolerate sun, especially if given enough moisture.  It doesn’t seem to be too particular about soil type – another testament to its “warrior” status in my book.

It’s rated for Zones 2 – 7, but the further south you go the more shade you should give it.

The flowers show up in mid spring.  They are white, bell-shaped and have a nice scent.  One thing though: orange berries may appear in the fall.  These are poisonous so just keep that in mind if you have little kids nearby.

Lily of the Valley has beauty and brawn.  The classic use is as a ground cover under shade trees, but creatively it can be used around woody plants and also in the “nooks and crannies” of a shady rock garden.

One more great attribute of this plant is its deer resistance.  In my area this quality is almost becoming a must.

Let me know in the comments how you’ve used it and what experiences you’ve had with Lily of the Valley.

This landscape would be a good example of an older planting in need of a renovation.

The Japanese Maple (green leaf variety) on the corner of the house met the criteria for a good value, high degree of success transplant.

Maybe some of you noticed this maple is in leaf and are thinking “You should not be transplanting this plant now!”  You are correct.

Preparation For Transplanting – Not To Be Taken Lightly

There are circumstances that have you transplanting at less than optimum times of year.  In this case we were confident of success if we did additional preparation.  Prior to the transplant we treated the plant with BioPlex.  This is a special liquid bio-stimulant that dramatically reduces transplant shock.

Plant nurseries practice a process called root pruning.  They do this because the roots of plants instinctively grow outward well beyond the point where a root ball would be dug.  You therefore risk cutting off too great a percentage of roots reducing the transplant’s  chances of survival.

With root pruning you literally dig down, perhaps a year before you intend to move the plant, and prune the roots at a point where you anticipate the root ball to eventually be.  This causes the remaining roots to “branch-out” and produce a denser, more fibrous root system.

We have done root pruning on project sites where it was necessary and justified, but it does require planning, extra cost and a schedule that allows the extra time.  More often we just practice good common sense tactics such as:

• water the plant in advance of digging to insure good soil moisture around the root system.
• try to dig on cool, cloudy days which can help with reducing plant stress and transplant shock.
• use a bio-stimulant product (like BioPlex) for increasing your success rate

Clear the area.  You can’t have too much room to work when digging a plant for transplant.  If surrounding plants are to be removed, do it before digging.  If surrounding plants are to be transplanted, tie all of them up to get branches out of the way.

Dig the smallest and easiest transplants first.

With the area as clear as possible and branches tied up, begin by shaving the top, loose soil over the roots.  At this point you can mark a line that shows the future diameter of the ball as specified in the American Standard for Nursery Stock.

At a distance slightly outside of the marked circle begin to dig down.  Use a sharp spade, with its back side toward the plant, to cut through the soil and smaller roots.  Use a lopper to cut larger roots.

These 4 tools help to make the transplant job go smoothly.  Starting from the left is a spade, lopper, long-handled shovel and a solid steel root-cutter.

Your objective is to dig a trench around the prescribed sized root ball.  Continue to dig down to the depth recommended in the Standard for Nursery Stock.  Shape the ball like a flower pot, tapering in slightly as you go deeper.

When you reach the proper depth (I usually go slightly deeper), you must make a decision as to whether the root ball will be drum-laced or not.  Drum-lacing should always be done if the root ball is either large or appears to be weak and fragile.  You don’t want the root ball to break apart or become loose during the transplanting process.

If you are drum-lacing (this Maple is drum-laced) the base of the root ball remains attached to the ground.  It is only after the root ball is securely drum-laced that it can be undercut.  Drum-lacing is an involved technique and really warrants a detailed post with pictures.  Actually, this would be a good technique to video.  I hope to have video as a part of LandscapeAdvisor content in the near future.

When the root ball is smaller and appears nice and solid (usually due to plenty of fibrous roots and cohesive soil), you probably can skip the drum-lacing.  So now you can begin to undercut the ball with the spade to sever any remaining roots and to separate the root ball from the ground.

Once the root ball is free at the base you must set it on a square-cut piece of burlap by either of 2 ways.  If the plant is not too heavy it can be carefully lifted and placed on the burlap square.

If it can’t be lifted easily, roll the burlap square half way, then lean the plant over slightly.  Tuck the rolled side of the burlap in the crease where the ball is still touching.  Now lean the plant over in the opposite direction and unroll the half of the burlap square.  Presto!… I don’t think I’ve ever gotten it right in the middle of the burlap, but usually close enough.

Once the root ball is sitting on the burlap square, lift and tie the opposite corners over the top of the ball by the neck of the plant.

If you look closely at the picture to the right (click to enlarge) you’ll see a “chain-cradle” around the root ball.  This will be used to lift the plant out of the hole and into its new location using a backhoe.

No doubt there are other techniques, tips and perhaps questions out there on this broad topic.  We’d all like to hear them; possibly pick up something new, and help those in need.  Feel free to leave a comment.

Forsythia actually makes me think of childhood.   Probably because it was what we saw when the weather first started to get warm and we could play more outside.

Forsythia intermedia - Border Forsythia

Although Forsythia is not a plant I use frequently, it does have its place and use in the landscape.

Up close (and especially when leafless), they tend to look a little “helter skelter”.  Dare I say ratty?

However, from a distance (and especially in leaf) they do have a pleasing mounded form.

How Do Forsythias Operate?

The two types of forsythia you’re most likely to see are Forsythia intermedia (Border Forsythia) and Forsythia suspensa (Weeping Forsythia).

Border Forsythia has a broad rounded shape when it gets older (presuming it doesn’t get annihilated by a power shear, of course).  It can get up to 10′ high and equally wide if given the space and license.

Forsythia suspensa - Weeping Forsythia

Weeping Forsythia is a bit different from Border Forsythia.  It has more of a spreading look about it with long trailing branches.  It too can get 10′ wide; maybe not quite as tall.

Both have the trademark trait of flowering yellow in early spring (around early April here in the Northeast).  Weeping Forsythia, however, does not have as rich a color or profusion of flower as Border Forsythia.

Forsythia are not finicky and will adapt to most conditions.   I have seen Forsythia bothered by spider mite when the plant becomes drought stressed.  They flower and grow best in sunny locations.

A well-established plant will push out some suckers around its base; you could, therefore, call it a “colonizing” plant.

Basically, Forsythia is not meant to be pruned.  If pruning is necessary because its growing out of its space or its getting a little too “wild and woolly,” here are 2 strategies:

1. Because Forsythia bloom on “old wood,” you must prune soon after flowering in the spring. Selective pruning with a hand pruner works great on cutting back aggressive branching.  If you really need to get the beast under control, you can cut the entire plant back as far as you want – it will “rejuvenate”.
2. Another technique is to go inside the plant and prune out the oldest, heaviest stems leaving the younger.

Note: Early spring, right after flowering and before the leaves come out, is the best time to do any of this pruning/rejuvenating work on Forsythia.

So, Should You Use Forsythia?

We’ve all heard the adage “use the right plant in the right spot”.  Using Forsythia off in a distant border planting with plenty of room to “do its thing” is fine.  Another use is on a large slope where there’s an expansive area to plant.  Here the fountain-like branching of Weeping Forsythia could work well; the “colonizing” suckers would help stabilize the slope.

Oh, and let’s not forget Forsythia’s claim to fame, that gorgeous show of yellow flowers.  They’re like the town crier announcing the arrival of spring.

There is so much to gain by understanding and using plant groupings (or “plant massings” as they are sometimes called).

Design With An Appropriate Setting In Mind

“Uh-oh” you say, “he’s getting into subjective territory”.  Maybe so, but think about it.  To make something appropriate is: to make suitable; to make suitable for the context in which it occurs.

If something is unsuitable or out of the realm of what you’d expect, you’re not going to feel comfortable with it.  If there’s any experience you want people to have in your design, let it be a pleasant and comfortable one.

How do you decide on what is appropriate?

Hmmm.  Good question.  Again, we’re going to skirt on the notion of subjectivity, but maybe it can be viewed very simply.

You wouldn’t wear a tuxedo to a barbecue would you? (College years excluded.)  Of course not.  It’s just not appropriate.  It wouldn’t look right and it sure wouldn’t feel right.

Before putting a pencil to paper, survey the setting – look at the surroundings.  Consider the feature or intended use of the space (recreation, entertaining, interest garden, etc.).  With all things considered, if this intended setting was here and occurred naturally, how might it look?

In the pool setting above imagine what the property looked like before.  The large trees were existing and the land was raised going towards the back.

With the intent of designing a pool in an appropriate setting, how do you think this would naturally occur?

Conceptually the pool would be irregular in shape, it would more likely occur in a lower position relative to the slope, and it would be surrounded by naturalized plantings.

No doubt you’ll have specific feature requests that you must work with – like the paver bricks used for this pool patio.  (Irregular flagstone would have worked well.)  But if you always keep in mind your general concept of what’s appropriate in the design, you can’t go wrong.