Using Yellow Groove Bamboo over this 270′ border will give us an effective screen in a relatively short time, and at a reasonable cost.  But Yellow Groove happens to be of the “running” type, meaning if not contained its roots (rhizomes actually) will run and invade in all directions.

Planting any invasive plant is serious business. First off know what you’re planting and what it can potentially do.  You could be a hero the first year it grows and a “scoundrel” the second year as it invades the neighbor’s yard.

Root Barrier From Day 1

The homeowner didn’t hesitate to authorize the root barrier install.  It solved the concern of  “running” bamboo and let the plant’s good characteristics shine.

There is no better time to install a root barrier than during the plant installation process.  The new plants are not yet in the ground and the equipment & manpower is on-site.

After clearing and rough grading the area, the mini-excavator dug a trench around the perimeter of the planting bed.

This particular bamboo root barrier is made of high density polyethelene and comes as a roll.  Different widths are available and here we used 30″ wide.  You want to install it so that a few inches are above final grade.  This protruding collar will help stop and deflect “runners” that are close to the surface.  A good maintenance practice would be to occasionally monitor this barrier just in case some Houdini-like runner makes it over.

Arrange & Install The Bamboo

We’re starting with bamboo in 5 gal. containers from Monrovia Nursery.  They’ll stand around 5-6′ tall when planted.  As you can see in the picture to the left, the plants are arranged in 2 staggered rows with 6′ C-C (center-to-center) spacing.

The irrigation contractor did install a “drip-zone” before the mulch went down.  Once the bamboo is established I really don’t think scheduled watering will be needed.  It is zoned separately so it can be adjusted however necessary.

In this circumstance and with the root barrier installed the bamboo offers an excellent screen.  It won’t be long before it grows into the 12′+ privacy hedge the homeowner is looking for.

Bamboo, like so many areas in landscaping, could be a study unto itself.  There are numerous types and varieties along with many different ways to use them.  How about yourself?…Have you had any experience(s) working with bamboo?

Here’s the previous post for this project.

Why Use Bamboo?

You’ve probably heard me say it before, “Use the right plant in the right place”.  You want to make choices that ensure long-term success both in beauty and function.

There are numerous considerations when selecting plants, including cost.  This was a key factor in selecting Yellow Groove Bamboo (Phyllostachys aureosulcata).

We wanted screening that would reach 15 – 20′ to give much needed privacy for the new outdoor living space.  The backyard border was 270′ long.  There were some existing large, deciduous trees that were to remain – this meant light shade and root competition.

This bamboo would give us the height relatively quickly, thrive in the varying light conditions, deal with root competition and do this at a reasonable cost.

To deal with the “invasive” character of this bamboo, a barrier would be installed on all sides of the planting area.  I’ll cover that in my next post on this project.

Methods To Prevent Madness

Systems and methods are key to tackling any landscape project, even when doing a basic border planting using one variety of plant.  A disorganized, non-methodical approach adds additional time to the job, and the final outcome usually suffers too.

Dave Kennedy, one of our contributors on LA.com, is installing this bamboo screen.  Dave’s first phase is site prep.  This includes removing all the undesirable plant growth, digging-out the few good plants for transplant,  and rough grading the area.

Dave has a schedule for the “phases” of this job.  He also knows the materials, equipment and labor requirements for each phase.

The first picture shows the compact excavator ripping out the old vegetation.  One approach would be to first cut the tops of the plants and then remove the stumps afterwards.  Dave decides to remove the entire plant in one shot because of the recycling systems he has in place.  Your approach may differ depending on your circumstance and recycling method.

Tactics Depend On Capability

How you approach a job depends a great deal on your capability, certainly in terms of knowledge, but here I’m talking about available resources such as equipment, manpower (and their skill level) and then network connections for materials & services.  The resources available to you should determine the tactics you use to do the job.

Mechanical tree spades make transplanting very efficient.  Without this equipment you might decide that the time and manpower to move these trees is just not worth it.  Capability = Tactic.

This particular tree spade digs a 42″ diameter ball.  For these two evergreens that’s large enough to ensure transplanting success.

The wire baskets are sized to match the particular tree spade’s root ball.  Once the root ball is set into the burlap lined basket, Dave’s guys shave the excess soil off the top with a spade.

The final step before moving the plants into their new locations is to fold the burlap over and “star-tie” the wire baskets closed.

Here’s the previous post for this project. And here’s the next.

The materials you use play an equal role to the workmanship in terms of how long something will last.  Or, to be blunt, cut corners anywhere and you’ll live to regret it.

You can see the integrity of the structural framework in the previous Project #8 post.  Every component in this pavilion’s construction is top-notch.  Anthony Power Beams span & connect to the steel columns.  The decorative round columns are fiber-reinforced composite and all the architectural trim is engineered resin & polyurethane materials by Azek.

The roof rafters arrived as preassembled sections that fit together nicely.  I also liked the way the upper construction tied into the steel columns.

The town building dept. required the plans be certified by a licensed structural engineer, which was not a problem albeit the added expense.  (Towns are becoming more & more stringent so triple-check what they require.)  I was there for the inspections during construction and could see the inspector was impressed with “the build”.

Coordinating Inspections

It’s always a challenge to schedule the various inspections so that the project can move along smoothly.  This pavilion had its own unique inspection issues with the upper framing and electric for the paddle fan/light.  Normally, both the building inspector and electrical inspector want to see framing and wiring before the walls and ceilings cover things up.  The problem was the crew wanted to complete the pavilion in 1 day. They traveled from out-of-state and planned on just the one day to finish.

This is where good relations with town offices can help.  If all your previous dealings have been upfront and inline with codes & ordinances, then there’s a good chance they’ll work with you.  After explaining the “1 day build” situation to the construction office, they were willing to make the extra inspections during the day.  The crew was then able to install the cedar ceiling, finish up the soffits and add the trim.

The paddle fan was re-purposed from a porch on the house which was being renovated.  It is rated for a wet location and outdoor use.  We did, however, discover the mounting stem was too short and had to order a longer one from the manufacturer “Fanimation“. The fan actually fits very nicely and the family likes it better in the pavilion than they did in the porch.

All of the electronics in the home including on the outside are tied into a central control. Modules located throughout the home allow you to control everything.  Using a handheld remote the homeowner was able to activate all the outside lights and audio.  A nice, convenient feature.

Sometimes Prefab Is The Way To Go

Although we could have had an architect design a similar structure and then contract to have it built, using Dalton Pavilion and their turn-key approach proved the better way to go.  The architectural detail, quality of materials and workmanship are incomparable.  The fact that this pavilion and Dalton’s similar outdoor garden structures are their area of expertise helped assure us of a professional outcome.  Also, because these structures are prefabricated, it makes them very cost effective.

Have you used prefabricated structures on your property?  If so let us know your experience (good or bad) by commenting below.

Here’s the next post for this project.

In the last post for this project we saw the sonotube footings beneath the four corners of the concrete slab.  When the decorative stone & brickwork is complete, each footing will secure and support a pavilion column.

Within the 12″ wide bluestone border is a row of brick to visually tie-in the surrounding brick patio. The remaining area is finished with “pattern” bluestone.

The 2 X 4″ you see sticking up next to the the stairway marks where a 4″ PVC sleeve is located (see photo left). It should be routine that sleeves are installed whenever hardscape construction causes a barrier from getting future wires and utilities from one side to the next.  Make sure you indicate on the landscape plan where these sleeves are located.  I guarantee sometime in the future you’ll need to find them.  Another little trick is to grind a small mark in the stone where the sleeve is – a mark that will be there forever.

With the patio areas complete it was time for the pavilion construction to begin. Dalton Pavilions, located in PA, sent a crew along with the pavilion components.

Their first task was to locate and square the 4 corners of the pavilion. If the mason contractor did his job well, those 4 points should be directly over the sonotube footings.

To the right you’ll see the electrical conduit and wire to power the paddle fan and light for the pavilion.  This feature was planned from the beginning and was specified in the construction drawings.  The mason had to locate the conduit precisely in the footing to accomodate a predrilled hole in the flange of the steel column.

These 5 X 5″ square steel columns are the essence of the pergola’s strength.  They are responsible for supporting the balance of the structure above them, and to secure the entire structure to the ground.

For each steel column four holes were drilled through the patio and into the sonotube footings.  Threaded steel rods could then be anchored into the holes using Hilti Epoxy.  In a short time the epoxy is hardened enough that the steel columns are set and bolted down securely. With the decorative white columns slid over the steel the true strength of the pavilion is beautifully concealed.

In the next project post we’ll see the pavilion come together as a key focal point and shelter in this landscape.

Here’s the next post for this project.

The homeowners wanted a garden structure that would echo the style of their home and offer cover for those wanting to get out of the sun.

I suggested they consider the Heritage Pavilion by Dalton Pavilions.  They chose a 14 X 18′ model, but with single columns on the corners.  The 3 column corners are pretty, but take up additional space.

These pavilions are beautifully made and extremely strong.  They are engineered to withstand a 110 mph wind and a snow load of 30 lbs./ square foot.

The strength of this structure begins with 24″ wide sonotube footings that go 42″ below grade.  There are 4 footings – one for each of the corner columns.  Beneath the pavilion will be a wet-laid bluestone patio built on a concrete slab.

How The Patio Integrates With The Footings

In the first picture you see 2 X 4 framing by each sonotube. This precisely forms the four corners of the pavilion’s concrete patio slab.  The slab is poured so it bridges over the footings.

The pavilion has 4 white columns.  These columns are decorative and actually slide over 5 X 5″ steel structural columns.  These steel columns are affixed to the concrete footings with threaded steel rod.  You’ll see this construction in upcoming posts on this project.

New Elevations Begin To Show

I can remember in the early planning stages setting up grade stakes with string lines to illustrate proposed elevations for the new hardscape.  The homeowner was amazed that these features would “sit up” at these indicated heights, and quite frankly, I double-checked my elevation measurements just to be sure.  Elevations can be tricky to “eye-up” at times and for this reason I’m a real fan of grade stakes, string lines and markers set with an instrument.

The main portion of the patio will be done in dry-set brick and will come right up to the wet-laid bluestone patio under the pavilion.  To give definition to the bluestone patio and an elegant segue to the brick, mason contractor Lester Szajna has installed a 12″ bluestone coping as a border.

Here’s the previous post on this project. And here’s the next.

Design the Outdoor Cooking Area for Function

Before you run out and get the biggest grill that fits in your SUV, there are a few things to consider – and you need to get these right.  First, consider proximity to the indoor kitchen. Unless you’re planning a complete outdoor kitchen with duplicates of everything in your indoor kitchen, you’re going to be running in and out getting stuff.

Next, think about the position of the cooking area in relation to the rest of the outdoor living space.  Ideally you’d like to be somewhat near the table and chairs or the main “eating area”.  This is not critical, so if you’ve exhausted all possible layouts, go with what works best.

If the project budget and space allows it, figure in additional patio area for an informal setting for conversation.  A few chairs and low table work great.

Sound familiar?  It’s just like designing the space on the inside of your house.

Oh, and one last thing on “functional design” for cooking areas.  Provide enough space in and around the cook area for a few people to hang-out and keep the cook company. They hunger for your conversation and whatever you’re grilling.

Appliances and Components Affect Construction

Your selection of features and components must be established before construction.  Each will have its own specifications in terms of dimensions, utility connections and structural requirements for installation.

Our bluestone barbecue will accommodate a grill with storage cabinet, 2 cook-top burners and a refrigerator. All these items were selected and on-site for the mason, plumber and electrician to reference during construction.

Plan, plan, plan.  I know I sound like a broken record, but don’t just think about things you want today, but also about things you may want down the line.  Odds are good there are facilities you can build into your work today that will help for your future plans.  The PVC conduit pipe you see in the first picture is running through our barbecue construction to accommodate future wires for audio on the other side of the patio.  I overheard the homeowner say to the audio guy, “I can’t wait to hear Pink Floyd’s “Dark Side of the Moon” on my patio!” This neighborhood is in for a….treat?

Here’s the previous post on this project. And here’s the next.

These bluestone walls are being built by Lester Szajna (LA Contributor) and his crew.  If you stood there and watched for awhile, you would admire the skill and patience these stone masons have. Each piece of stone must be hand-tooled to achieve the fit and finish a styled wall like this requires. In addition to building for structural integrity, there’s a constant attention to appearance.  We wanted a generous mix of larger stones in the wall.  This would give an appropriate look of scale and proportion considering the height and length of the wall.

Notice how the filter fabric and gravel is following up the backside of the wall as it’s being built. At the base of the wall and surrounded by gravel is a perforated drain pipe that will carry away any water that might collect behind the wall.  This is certainly one of the key ingredients to long-lasting wall construction.  If you’re a homeowner and the contractor is not providing this in their construction, call your town’s buiding dept. If you’re a contractor and you’re not providing this in your construction the odds are very good your wall will fail in time, your customer will be upset and your reputation will take a major hit.

In my last post on this project we saw the block work being done for the masonry steps.  Below we see the integration of the dry-set stone wall work with the masonry steps.  The bluestone on the face of each step riser is cut as a veneer. The pattern appears as a seamless connection to the wall. Bluestone step treads will soon be added.

Next we’ll take a look at the start of the other features on this project.  We’re already installing conduits, utilities and other provisions to support them.

Here’s the previous post on this project. And here’s the next.

The homeowners had spent the first few years renovating the inside and exterior features of this 100 year old home.  It was time to begin updating the landscape to coincide with the tastes and lifestyle of this young family.

The Concept

What’s missing from this home’s yard is pretty obvious.  There is no expansive outdoor living space that is proportionate to the size of the home and the anticipated use of the family. There is, however, a charming small deck off the kitchen that offers a nice reception/gathering area for folks coming in and out, and also enough room for a small table and chairs…perfect for morning coffee.  I should mention there is a set of steps leading to ground level on the opposite side.

To meet the needs of the site and the requests of the homeowners, the concept is to create a large patio area with a section covered for protection from the elements.  They also wish to add a BBQ structure, lighting and outdoor audio.

The Solution

As you can see the property drops off quickly behind the house.  We had considered universally raising the entire back yard area, but in addition to cost issues, there would have been zoning hurdles to battle and overcome.  We decided instead to create two levels: an upper raised stone terrace for the patio living space and the lower level as open lawn for the kids.

At the far end there were 2 terraced block walls existing that were removed.  These are to be replaced by a continuous bluestone, dry-stack wall that will run the length of the back of the house and establish a consistent elevation for all our planned features.

With the old walls removed, the new wall was plotted and marked as per plan and a footing trench (for gravel) was dug. At a point approximately halfway, a full depth footing was dug for a masonry set of bluestone steps to integrate with the dry-stack wall and provide access to the stone terrace and lower levels.

In the picture to the right you see the block work for the steps being worked on.  Notice the PVC pipe built into the construction.  This will enable the drainage for the wall to pass through the steps and continue behind the rest of the wall on its way to the seepage pits.

Filter fabric is draped over the back of the excavation for the dry-stack wall.  This will provide separation between the the earth backfill and the clean gravel that is placed behind the stone wall for drainage.

It’s always interesting to watch space become more usable and beautiful by modifying grades and elevations.  I hope you come back to watch this project’s progress.  Or “Subscribe Via Email” in the right column of this page and my articles will come right to your e-mail box when I post them.

Here’s the previous post on this project. And here’s the next.

Engineer For Beauty And Longevity

I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again: “With landscape design you must consider the dynamics and influences of the site on your design.”  I know I bore homeowners to no end when talking about the engineering of their property, but if that aspect is neglected, it’s likely you’ll never have the landscape you’ve dreamed of.

On this project we planned patio areas, which would increase the impervious coverage on the property.  Town code required that we provide seepage pit capacity for the “runoff” from these new impervious surfaces.

After site analysis and gathering  topographic data, it became apparent that water runoff from the upper part of the property could impact some of our new work.  The biggest contributor to this runoff threat was the home’s roof water that just emptied out from leader pipes onto the grade.

After explaining the condition to the homeowner and how cost effective and practical it would be to tackle the issue now, we got the go-ahead.  It was determined that one additional seepage tank would accommodate the roof water.

With the excavator on-site, the adding of the additional tank was pretty straight forward.  Roof water was piped directly into the new seepage pit, and a piece of PVC pipe was stubbed up above grade to accommodate our future connection for the new patio surface water.

Managing water and runoff in a landscape is paramount.  I have renovated too many projects where this fundamental principle was not considered.

Here’s the previous post on this project. And here’s the next.

Overhead Wires Can Sometimes Be An Eyesore

Usually when there are overhead wires they are in front of the house along the road.  That’s usually a workable feature in that most passers-by look at the house and generally don’t pick up on the wires.

This backyard project, however, had an atypical situation.  The utility poles and wires ran along the back property line.  Yep, you got it – that means the “wire drops” to feed the house hung right over the backyard.  In fact, right over where the new raised terrace/patio was planned.

When the homeowner first moved in five years ago and we evaluated the landscape, it was clear we’d have to reroute the wires underground.  It was therefore no surprise for the homeowner to see the cost in the budget, but they would have rather saved that money or spent it on an enjoyable feature.

Strict Codes and Regulations

As you would expect, putting the utilities underground was one of the first phases of this project.  The toughest codes and regulations applied to the power lines.  The licensed electrician on the job contacted the power company to begin the process.  Paperwork was filled out and a representative from the power company visited the site to guide us on the details & requirements. He even marked the utility pole where he wanted our underground conduit to come up.  I’m told by a power company worker that this is particularly important on poles located along the road because they want the conduit away from where a car would likely strike it.  Good thinking, right?

The trench was dug 3′ or greater in depth.  In the bottom we placed a layer of sand and then three PVC conduits.  The largest diameter is for power, and the other two for phone and cable.

And In Closing…

Whether you’re closing a trench that contains sprinkler pipe, water lines, gas lines or electric, take the time to be careful how you backfill.  In the case of these major utilities the conduits were resting on top of sand and then eventually covered with sand.  This does 2 important things:

• The sand provides a clean, rock-free surround to protect the pipes.
• The sand serves as a “marker material” that should warn anybody that might ever be digging nearby that there are utilities in the area.

An additional requirement was to bury a special metallic tape just above the sand layer .  This tape would also serve as a “visual marker” if someone were digging, but also, because it is metallic it can be traced electronically.

Like everything else in construction, be thorough and don’t cut corners.  You don’t want any problems showing up in the future.

Here’s the next post on this project.