One thing you learn from doing landscape renovation projects is what works and what doesn’t.  The test of time will often determine if something was built correctly or not.

And because our work is outside, never underestimate the affects of  mother nature on the materials you choose and how they are “put together”.  Sun exposure, shade, moisture, temperature, wind, soil type, drainage – these are just some of natures’ forces working against your creations.

Dave Kennedy of Lavelle Farms is handling all aspects of the exterior renovation of this home.  He has recommended to the homeowner a classic bluestone walkway.

This front walkway is one of several hardscape features the family want done as part of phase 1 in this renovation.

Base Prep – Step 1 To Building It Right

I’ll bet most people have heard the advice: “Build it on a good foundation”.  Truer words have never been spoken.

For a “dry-set” bluestone walkway, the base the bluestone sits on is essentially its foundation.

A dry-set bluestone walkway relies on a thick, compacted aggregate base that drains well.

What you’re walkway doesn’t want is:

• moisture building up underneath the stone.  Water can contribute to unstable conditions, and if it freezes can “heave” the surface stones out of position.
• loose or organic soil as part of the sub-base.  The earth that you ultimately build your walkway’s base on should be compacted sub-soil.  Top soils containing organics (such as leaf litter, roots, etc.) should never be used.  Soils like that should be removed.

After excavating for the bluestone walkway the sub-soil is compacted with a vibratory plate compactor.  Dave uses stringlines as a constant reference during construction.

All specifics such as walkway pitch and number of steps are worked out in the designing phase.

After sub-soil compaction Mirafi filter fabric is laid at the bottom and sides to keep the base material from mixing with the sub-soil.  In the picture above 3/4″ clean gravel is dumped onto the fabric to start the bluestone walkway base.

Do not add more than 6″ of base gravel at a time without compacting.

To set the actual bluestone a smaller diameter gravel is layered on top of the coarser gravel.  This smaller gravel also drains well and is easier to adjust when setting each stone.

The bluestone walkway is 5′ wide to comfortably handle two people walking side by side.  I would suggest not going under 4′ wide for a “primary” walkway.

The 2 steps are each solid bluestone with consistent 6″ risers.  Dave “hand-tooled” the sides to get the natural rock-faced look.

Natural Stone – A Good Choice

The final choice for the walkway’s surface should combine considerations for:

• Style and look.
• Function and durability.
• Cost to value.

This is a decision you’ll live with for some time.  Also, it could be a factor when and if you sell the house.  In terms of style, choose a material that’s classic and timeless.

Thinking again about the affects of nature over the long haul, is this material able to stand the test of time?  Will the color change or fade?  Will the actual material break down and fragment?  Is it slippery when wet?  Easy to shovel snow off?

In terms of cost to value it’s important to identify those features that are important to you and get proposals that will give those results.  You can then make the decision as to whether this cost is justified for your circumstance.

Natural stone always makes a good choice.  Certainly there are some bad choices among the natural stones too, but generally they offer timeless style, durability and good value.

Stone steps come in all styles.  Essentially their role is to get you from one level to another.

In good landscape design, how stone steps look is as important as how they function.  Frankly, that should be the case of every element in a well-designed landscape.

When we speak of the function for steps, it’s important to realize if these steps are the only option to get from one level to another.  Or, are there alternative ways in the design.

And if there are alternative ways, what role of importance will these particular steps provide?

If the area to access is important and only one set of steps is used, then they have to conform to the features of any safe and frequently used stairway.  In fact, depending on the situation, you may be subject to building code parameters.  As always, it’s smart to be up to speed on these regulations.

In the project pictured above there is a pool and patio level on top and a cobble-like paver walkway below.  There are 3 alternative ways to get from this lower level to the pool.

1. Near the driveway and where guests would enter the backyard there is a “primary” set of masonry steps with stone veneer risers and bluestone step treads.   I call them primary because this is the main set of steps to the area.

These masonry steps meet every requirement for safety including a handrail.  They did require a construction permit and were inspected.

2. At the other end of the pool/patio, the lower grade was sloped up to meet the patio.  This alternate access is grass and allows for an “easy-go” if you’re wheeling something or would just rather not navigate steps.

3. In between the masonry steps and the sloped lawn access we planned to have boulders and plantings to retain the earth.  While setting the boulders it came to us to offer a 3rd alternate access to the homeowner.  They have children who we thought would love a “rock-climbing-like” step/path down to the cobble walkway.  (See the first picture).

The Type Of Stone Step You Build Should Relate To Its Use

Here’s why these “rough” fieldstone steps work:

• they are not the only access
• they provide a  novel experience for the young & adventuresome.  (Not to say the older folks can’t give them a go too.)
• they add interest to the garden

These “rough” stone steps in the first picture were simply picked out of a stockpile of fieldstone boulders that were delivered.  By selecting rocks with flatter sides, “stone steps were born”.

If you wanted to have an informal and natural set of steps, but with a bit more consistency, stone slab-steps are available.  As seen in the picture to the right, these steps are more angular and come from the quarry in slabs.

Although they’re not dimensionally the same, you can request certain size ranges and that helps with building stone steps to fit your plan and vision.

To make the rise-height of each step the same, you can adjust the “setting bed” (usually gravel) to make the stone sit higher or lower.

There are other techniques which involve cutting the stone with a diamond blade to make it fit the situation.  I’m sure in future posts I’ll be able to show you some of these persuasive techniques.

Stone step design is only limited by your imagination.  How have you utilized rocks into stairways?  Let us know in the comments below.

Let’s take another visit to the lake home and landscape project by East Coast Landscape.  In the last post we traveled down natural stone steps alongside a well-built and engineered waterfeature.

We’re now almost to the shoreline and standing on a wide path covered in woodchips.  This path actually travels a roundabout and gradual climb up to the main house.  It serves as both an alternate route for a casual (and longer) stroll, and also provides access for smaller equipment to get closer to the lake.

Combining Natural and Man-Made Elements

It is at this point where the cascading water coming down the rocky slope meets with a natural stream.

Alan Goodell from East Coast Landscape explains how this convergence of the two water features was handled.  At the base of the slope a retention pond was built using more boulders to echo the existing rockery.  Both the natural stream and the constructed waterfall enter into this pond.

While looking like just another natural occurring feature, this engineered pond allows the two water sources to be “managed” properly.  A weir is built below one of the bridges as part of the water management system.  The water flow and level of the pond can be adjusted as needed.

On the other side of the bridge the water exits after flowing over the pond weir.  This last part of the journey for the water before entering the lake is another display of cascades over rockery.

Notice how the plantings between the stone helps to unite the boulder groupings and then visually ties everything in to the surroundings.  I actually had to look closely to distinguish between the natural and man-made parts of the project.

The Beach And Dock Area

From the wood chip path there’s only a short stretch to the lake.  East Coast constructed a wide belgian block ramp that leads to the open-front pavilion.

The belgian block cobble provides a stable, strong surface.  It naturally has a nubby texture for traction and sure-footing.  Belgian block, as a dimensional, thick, heavy paver can conform to the subtleties of the slope.   Also, its gray tones blend well with the surroundings.  I like the way the belgian block pavers combine to meet the flagstone in front of the pavilion.  Different paving elements that connect can be challenging in design.

The pavilion has an open-front and together with the flagstone patio offers a spacious room for all sorts of activities. From the pavilion there are several stone slab-steps to the beach and dock area.

The trek from the house down to the lake was certainly not an effort.  In fact, I wish it had continued!

In design, if you can bring people to a point where they are no longer thinking about the clock and perhaps what else they should be doing, you’ve created something special.

On a project like this it is an appreciation and respect for the surroundings.  The natural conditions are simply too powerful to try and manipulate them in any other way than how they naturally want to be.

Observe and Conceptualize

You probably already have a notion as to what you want or need in your landscape.  And if you’re a designer you’ve probably interviewed the homeowner to understand their desires.  This is important information, but you should not let those wishes (and even requirements) constrain your initial thinking of the site.

Keeping the general goals in mind, especially the functional goals, begin to familiarize yourself with the site.  Taking pictures not only gives you something to refer to when you’re away from the property, but it also forces you to concentrate on the property’s characteristics.

During these initial stages of planning relax about the need to come up with an absolute solution.  Allow yourself the time to think beyond the “want-list”.  For instance, “what do you think the site is asking for”?  When you “conceptualize” freely like this you’re more apt to create solutions beyond the obvious ones.  At the very least you can be content in your final design that you explored the possibilities thoroughly.

Other Features Are Realized

This post continues the coverage of the lakefront home and the beautiful landscape East Coast Landscape Co. created.  My last post on the project showed the drive and some of the front foundation area.

The home sits well above the lake in elevation.  This is often the case on lakefront properties.  As you’d expect, the basic design requirement was to provide everyday access down to the lake.

In the first picture we are three-quarters of the way down to the lake and looking up the rocky slope towards the house.  Although there were some existing rock outcroppings, a good amount of what you see was designed, arranged & installed.The waterfall was engineered and built by East Coast Landscape.  Using the lake as the water source, water is pumped to the top, just under the patio.  There it begins the long descent back down to the lake through carefully arranged rockery.

The elevation change from the house to the lake shore is substantial and therefore, so is the number of steps.  If you think about this trek, you want it to be safe, manageable and enjoyable for everybody – young and old alike.

Steps should be arranged so that landings occur often.  This gives everybody a chance to pause, rest and enjoy the views.

In the second picture above there’s a series of steps.  At the base of this stairway are flagstone stepping stones that expand into a substantial landing area.  The third picture shows the view you have up to the house from this spot.

The hand railings are a safety feature, but also help to give a sense of security, which adds to the enjoyment of the trek.  They are made of iron and were all fabricated right on site.  The iron had to be heated and bent for the handrails to follow the winding steps.  Posts were drilled directly into the stone where necessary.  The brown/bronze color helps to blend the man-made feature with the surroundings.

With the addition of naturalized plantings in many of the nooks and crannies, the entire setting seems as though it has been there all along.  It’s obvious the functional goals were met in this design, but included is a harmony of grades and features that marry the home to the site.

This type of outcome is the result of:

• becoming intimately familiar with the site during the design process
• considering the practical needs (functional goals)
• and then allowing the open-minded thinking that answers the question, ” What is the site asking for?”

I fully appreciate the personal nature of design and the individual approaches we all take.  Feel free to comment with your thoughts and methods to design.  This is great stuff we can all learn from.

Years ago I worked for a design/build company as a crew foreman.  This company had its own nursery/garden center.  The designer would ask me to gather all the plants listed on the planting plan for the project.  After I had every plant set aside, he would then request additional plants be brought along.  Why?  So he could add, change and tweak his arrangements right then and there.

According to the plans and contracts this project (#6) is complete.  But now should come the tweaks and enhancements that take it to the next level.

Let The Landscape’s Needs Speak For Themselves

The homeowners’ previous property had many large trees.  This caused their house to be dark inside.  Out of concern for that happening again they requested no additional trees be planted on the new site.

As a result, the landscape lacks the “ceiling” effect that larger trees provide.  The space feels too open.  In addition, well-positioned trees would help integrate the large home onto the site better.  There’s a wood deck on the southwest side of the house (pass the sunblock, please) that would  really benefit with a shade tree planted nearby.  A recently installed retractable awning helps in the meantime.

Planting The Nooks & Crannies Is Key

This is especially true when working with boulders and other hardscape features.  Many plants have already been planted to soften the rock, and in 2-3 years it will look quite different.

But to really set this landscape apart, we need to identify the remaining open spaces between the rocks and along steps and pathways.  (The pic below clearly shows examples of these voids.) Here is where all those awesome plants with interesting colors, textures and forms can be used to soften the hard stone edges.  When this nooks & cranny planting has filled in (along with the original plantings), all the landscape’s elements will appear as if they had been there for years.

This is the attention to detail that distinguishes the OK gardens from the amazing gardens.  This is what makes people pause, look and feel as though it’s just been there all along.

Here’s the previous post to this project.

In the last post for this project we saw the sonotube footings beneath the four corners of the concrete slab.  When the decorative stone & brickwork is complete, each footing will secure and support a pavilion column.

Within the 12″ wide bluestone border is a row of brick to visually tie-in the surrounding brick patio. The remaining area is finished with “pattern” bluestone.

The 2 X 4″ you see sticking up next to the the stairway marks where a 4″ PVC sleeve is located (see photo left). It should be routine that sleeves are installed whenever hardscape construction causes a barrier from getting future wires and utilities from one side to the next.  Make sure you indicate on the landscape plan where these sleeves are located.  I guarantee sometime in the future you’ll need to find them.  Another little trick is to grind a small mark in the stone where the sleeve is – a mark that will be there forever.

With the patio areas complete it was time for the pavilion construction to begin. Dalton Pavilions, located in PA, sent a crew along with the pavilion components.

Their first task was to locate and square the 4 corners of the pavilion. If the mason contractor did his job well, those 4 points should be directly over the sonotube footings.

To the right you’ll see the electrical conduit and wire to power the paddle fan and light for the pavilion.  This feature was planned from the beginning and was specified in the construction drawings.  The mason had to locate the conduit precisely in the footing to accomodate a predrilled hole in the flange of the steel column.

These 5 X 5″ square steel columns are the essence of the pergola’s strength.  They are responsible for supporting the balance of the structure above them, and to secure the entire structure to the ground.

For each steel column four holes were drilled through the patio and into the sonotube footings.  Threaded steel rods could then be anchored into the holes using Hilti Epoxy.  In a short time the epoxy is hardened enough that the steel columns are set and bolted down securely. With the decorative white columns slid over the steel the true strength of the pavilion is beautifully concealed.

In the next project post we’ll see the pavilion come together as a key focal point and shelter in this landscape.

Here’s the next post for this project.

The homeowners wanted a garden structure that would echo the style of their home and offer cover for those wanting to get out of the sun.

I suggested they consider the Heritage Pavilion by Dalton Pavilions.  They chose a 14 X 18′ model, but with single columns on the corners.  The 3 column corners are pretty, but take up additional space.

These pavilions are beautifully made and extremely strong.  They are engineered to withstand a 110 mph wind and a snow load of 30 lbs./ square foot.

The strength of this structure begins with 24″ wide sonotube footings that go 42″ below grade.  There are 4 footings – one for each of the corner columns.  Beneath the pavilion will be a wet-laid bluestone patio built on a concrete slab.

How The Patio Integrates With The Footings

In the first picture you see 2 X 4 framing by each sonotube. This precisely forms the four corners of the pavilion’s concrete patio slab.  The slab is poured so it bridges over the footings.

The pavilion has 4 white columns.  These columns are decorative and actually slide over 5 X 5″ steel structural columns.  These steel columns are affixed to the concrete footings with threaded steel rod.  You’ll see this construction in upcoming posts on this project.

New Elevations Begin To Show

I can remember in the early planning stages setting up grade stakes with string lines to illustrate proposed elevations for the new hardscape.  The homeowner was amazed that these features would “sit up” at these indicated heights, and quite frankly, I double-checked my elevation measurements just to be sure.  Elevations can be tricky to “eye-up” at times and for this reason I’m a real fan of grade stakes, string lines and markers set with an instrument.

The main portion of the patio will be done in dry-set brick and will come right up to the wet-laid bluestone patio under the pavilion.  To give definition to the bluestone patio and an elegant segue to the brick, mason contractor Lester Szajna has installed a 12″ bluestone coping as a border.

Here’s the previous post on this project. And here’s the next.

It’s not unusual to get requests for inground swimming pool design in tight spaces. Many of these tight spaces are simply a result of small pieces of property. But “tight-space” situations are also caused by zoning laws and other government agency requirements. Some of these parameters include: property line setbacks, “no disturbance” zones, steep slope ordinances, easements and protected wetlands.

A visit to the town construction and zoning office should be one of the first steps in the inground swimming pool design process.

The Project

Although the property was huge, positioning the pool on this project was indeed a challenge. There was limited space where the pool was planned because of construction setback restrictions and nearby wetlands . To add to the design challenge was the homeowner’s request for a cabana and a reasonable amount of deck/patio area.

I have always said the more challenging the project the more interesting the solution; this one was no exception.

The final solution met all the homeowner’s wishes. Each feature was designed to the limit of codes and ordinances. For example, the pool water’s edge was positioned within a few inches of the allowable setback line.

Not only must everything fit with inground swimming pool design, but it has to look right too.

With the pool located directly at the end of the driveway, we needed to provide a fence first to meet pool code. But the fence also served the design in other ways:

• the fence literally and psychologically created two distinct spaces: the public or driveway area and the private pool area.
• the fence screened views from the driveway as well as from the street.
• the fence ran from the cabana to the main house.  This visually connected the two buildings, unifying the design further.
• the fence provided all these benefits without taking up valuable space.

Sometimes One Front Walk Is Not Enough

After years of family & friends traipsing over the front lawn and gardens to get to the front door from the driveway, this homeowner decided it was time for a legitimate walkway.

There is an existing front yard walkway from the street which looks great and serves the occasional visitor. They had no intention of removing this primary walk. But what they wanted was a secondary walk that would accommodate this every day foot traffic from the driveway.

From a practical sense the new front yard walkway had to be designed along the obvious route people would take. If not, folks would just continue to blaze their own path.

The challenge was to integrate this new path in such a way that it harmonized with the front landscape and was not obtrusive. By choosing a natural stone with irregular shapes and neutral tones it mimicked a subtle stone path you might see in nature.

The width of the path varied too adding further charm.

Stone slab-steps were placed strategically to overcome the sloping grade and allow level areas for walking. You can see too how this step / walk configuration also adds interest while integrating well with the landscape.

Don’t Forget The Details

PVC sleeves were strategically installed underground at three intervals along the front yard walkway. These should accommodate any underground utilities (low voltage lighting, sprinklers, etc.) they may add in the future.

Since the stone path has been installed additional plantings have been added throughout the area, including along the path. Later this spring, when the garden is in “all its glory,” I’ll photograph and post those pictures. It still amazes me how additional “detail” plantings can truly be the finishing touch to any construction project.