One thing you learn from doing landscape renovation projects is what works and what doesn’t.  The test of time will often determine if something was built correctly or not.

And because our work is outside, never underestimate the affects of  mother nature on the materials you choose and how they are “put together”.  Sun exposure, shade, moisture, temperature, wind, soil type, drainage – these are just some of natures’ forces working against your creations.

Dave Kennedy of Lavelle Farms is handling all aspects of the exterior renovation of this home.  He has recommended to the homeowner a classic bluestone walkway.

This front walkway is one of several hardscape features the family want done as part of phase 1 in this renovation.

Base Prep – Step 1 To Building It Right

I’ll bet most people have heard the advice: “Build it on a good foundation”.  Truer words have never been spoken.

For a “dry-set” bluestone walkway, the base the bluestone sits on is essentially its foundation.

A dry-set bluestone walkway relies on a thick, compacted aggregate base that drains well.

What you’re walkway doesn’t want is:

• moisture building up underneath the stone.  Water can contribute to unstable conditions, and if it freezes can “heave” the surface stones out of position.
• loose or organic soil as part of the sub-base.  The earth that you ultimately build your walkway’s base on should be compacted sub-soil.  Top soils containing organics (such as leaf litter, roots, etc.) should never be used.  Soils like that should be removed.

After excavating for the bluestone walkway the sub-soil is compacted with a vibratory plate compactor.  Dave uses stringlines as a constant reference during construction.

All specifics such as walkway pitch and number of steps are worked out in the designing phase.

After sub-soil compaction Mirafi filter fabric is laid at the bottom and sides to keep the base material from mixing with the sub-soil.  In the picture above 3/4″ clean gravel is dumped onto the fabric to start the bluestone walkway base.

Do not add more than 6″ of base gravel at a time without compacting.

To set the actual bluestone a smaller diameter gravel is layered on top of the coarser gravel.  This smaller gravel also drains well and is easier to adjust when setting each stone.

The bluestone walkway is 5′ wide to comfortably handle two people walking side by side.  I would suggest not going under 4′ wide for a “primary” walkway.

The 2 steps are each solid bluestone with consistent 6″ risers.  Dave “hand-tooled” the sides to get the natural rock-faced look.

Natural Stone – A Good Choice

The final choice for the walkway’s surface should combine considerations for:

• Style and look.
• Function and durability.
• Cost to value.

This is a decision you’ll live with for some time.  Also, it could be a factor when and if you sell the house.  In terms of style, choose a material that’s classic and timeless.

Thinking again about the affects of nature over the long haul, is this material able to stand the test of time?  Will the color change or fade?  Will the actual material break down and fragment?  Is it slippery when wet?  Easy to shovel snow off?

In terms of cost to value it’s important to identify those features that are important to you and get proposals that will give those results.  You can then make the decision as to whether this cost is justified for your circumstance.

Natural stone always makes a good choice.  Certainly there are some bad choices among the natural stones too, but generally they offer timeless style, durability and good value.

This could actually be a continuation of my last post on installing flagstone in grass.

While setting the new flagstone path we came across a soggy area of lawn at the bottom of a stone stairway.  The homeowner said this area was usually wet.

Looking the situation over with landscape contractor Dave Kennedy, we determined that the water was “weeping-out” from the gravel footing of the stone steps.

The gravel footing was doing its job of keeping moisture away from the stone stairway construction.  However, because of the grade of the lawn level at the top of the stairs, extra water from run-off was entering the stairway construction.

In effect, the gravel footing was acting like a drainage seepage-pit for this upper lawn water.  The volume of water was too much to naturally drain into the subsoil and was causing this soggy condition at the base of the stairs.

Planning A Solution

Water is an amazing force.  It is powerful and relentless.  With this in mind your solutions should be designed to work with waters’ natural tendencies.

The excess water was draining from the gravel footing successfully.  The solution to the soggy lawn and area was to “intercept” the water at the base of the gravel footing where it was exiting the stairs and divert it.

Excavation for "intercept" drain

The tactic to intercept water and divert it is the core of most drainage solutions.

In this situation 4″ perforated pipe will be used to “intercept” the water, and solid pipe will carry it to a safe, open area.

In the picture to the left Dave’s crew has already trenched from where the water will exit and are now nearing the steps.  As the trench reaches the steps it begins to fill with water.

Water will seek the path of least resistance and the open trench is now that. The piping, when installed, will provide a permanent avenue and relief for the water.

How This Drain Is Put Together

The perforated pipe (with holes) and the solid pipe (w/o holes) are the same size and made of the same material.  In order to use the perforated and solid pipe together we’ll connect the two with a “coupling”.

Perforated drain pipe in gravel & filter fabric

It’s important to note that the bottom of the entire trench has pitch of at least 1/8″ per foot away from the stairs.

Filter fabric is used to line the bottom and sides of the trench in front of the stairs.  A section of perforated drain pipe is laid into the trench and surrounded with 3/8″ gravel.  The fabric insures no silt or soil will enter into this gravel/pipe zone.

Just past the stairs we convert to solid pipe using the coupling.

In the picture to the right you see the filter fabric which has been folded over the gravel.  Just past the stairs the fabric ends – this is where the perforated pipe converts to solid.

The trench with the solid drain pipe is backfilled carefully with earth.  It’s important while backfilling to check that the pipe sits solidly on the bottom of the trench and has pitch.

The solid pipe exits to an open space where the water can drain naturally.  We’re using smaller fieldstones (4 – 6″ dia.) to build around this pipe end.  This rockwork will help secure and protect the end of the pipe.

"Intercept" drain ready for flagstone

The Drains’ Finishing Details

If you’ll remember, before we got involved with this drainage issue Dave’s crew was installing a flagstone path in the lawn.  Well, nothing has changed.

The filter fabric was kept 4″ below finished grade so 2″ of gravel could be added to set the flagstone.

With the flagstone set over the drainage work, the rest of the path went in by the normal process.

All the disturbed areas were finish-graded, sod was placed back including between the flagstone pieces, and you would never know the drainage solution had ever happened.

Every water problem has its own unique characteristics and circumstances.  The solutions will be equally unique, however the concept remains the same.  You’re not stopping the water, you’re “managing” it.

The look of natural flagstone set in grass can be beautiful if done correctly and used in the right situation.

The turf in-between the stones softens the overall look of the path which can help distinguish it from other primary walkways.  At the same time this technique can subtly  connect different “points” in the landscape and direct the eye and traffic.

From a practical standpoint the stone path gives everybody a clean, solid surface to walk on in the event the grass is wet and/or soft.

The process of installing a path like this will vary slightly depending on circumstances such as the condition of the existing lawn.   Or, perhaps there is no lawn to begin with and you want to achieve this look.

The following installation will show the fundamentals.  If you have questions on a particular circumstance you may be dealing with, leave a “comment” and I’ll help you out.

Flagstone path stone selection

Flagstone Quality And Layout Are Important

Choose a type of flagstone that is dense and solid.  Stay away from slates and other types that flake, fragment and deteriorate over time.

You want the majority of pieces to be larger in size and no less than 1.5″ thick.  The idea here is that greater size and weight give stability – this is key.

Purchase and layout a good selection of flagstone so you have pieces to choose from.  Notice how plywood is used to protect the paver driveway.

Flagstone path layout

Before you begin the actual site work and preparation, arrange the stones on top of the existing lawn how you would ultimately like them to look.

In this picture to the right the stones are set and ready to be installed.  The homeowner requested that the space between the stones be kept close.  Compare this to the first photo at the top.  This is a different project where spacing was made wider.  Keep in mind the spacing must be wide enough to support the living grass.  Arrange the flagstones no closer than 1.5 – 2.0″ apart.

Remove existing lawn

Preparation And Installation Of Flagstone

The next step after arranging the flagstones is to prepare the base for installation.

Step one, removing the existing lawn, was fairly easy on this job.  The grass happened to be recently planted sod and was not yet deeply rooted.

Working in sections, move 3 – 4 stones at a time off to the side.  The sod can then be peeled back and the stones replaced to their set positions.

Realize, of course, that if you had a well established lawn, removing it would most likely involve some other strategy.  Again, which tactic you use to remove the grass depends on the circumstances.

Base preparation and flagstone setting

With the flagstones now sitting on bare ground, you are ready to prepare the base on which you’ll set the stones.

Trace the outline of the stone on the ground with a pointed tool of some sort – a trowel works fine.  Using a spade dig down 5 – 6″ within the outlined area.

In this excavated space install 3 – 4″ of crushed gravel.  We like to use gravel no larger than 1/4″ diameter.  It’s small enough to “move & level” with a trowel, compacts well and drains nicely too.

Now sometimes it gets difficult during this base preparation to preserve the narrower strips of earth between stones.  The key is to preserve or replace soil in these narrow strips so they can support grass. If it becomes too difficult to preserve these narrow strips of soil and they combine with the gravel base, take care to ultimately fill these voids with as much soil as possible.  For grass to survive in that narrow space, it must have a deep root system in soil.

Flagstone can be cut if necessary

A flagstone path in a lawn is meant to be informal.  Although you can see line design and pattern, there is still irregular shapes in the stone.  The pattern, which unifies the path, is achieved by relating the shape of each stone to one another.

Sometimes, no matter how much stone you have to pick from, you simply can’t find a good match.  This is the time to create the shape yourself by cutting the stone.

In the picture above we’ve arranged the path to widen at the top of a stairway.  Unable to find a stone to fit the situation, we overlapped one stone over another.

Flagstone cut and installed

Before making the cut we first mark a line on the bottom stone.  This line mirrors the shape of the stone above with a 2″ space.

The cut is actually made with a diamond blade.  Although diamond blades can be fitted on different types of power saws, here a 2 stroke cut-off saw was used.

After the cut is made the fresh-cut edge is “distressed” with a mason’s hammer to make it look more natural.

This last picture also shows a string-line set up.  The string is set at an equal height from the “finish grade” at each end of the walk.  You can check the uniformity of height and pitch of your walk by referencing this line at any point.  Realize, however, that there are times when your walk’s finished height may have to follow a particular grade contour that is critical for drainage.  Again, this is a particular circumstance you’ll have to identify on your site and adjust to accordingly.

The basic tools for actually setting the flagstones are a mason’s trowel and rubber mallet. The trowel lets you move and adjust the gravel base while the rubber mallet lets you tap the surface of the stones to set them firmly.  As mentioned, the string line is helpful to check your walk’s height and pitch.  A tape measure is used constantly.  And last but not least, a bubble-level is important to check each stone.  Also, by bridging the level from one stone to the next you can check the “height / pitch” relationship of one stone to the other.

Years ago I worked for a design/build company as a crew foreman.  This company had its own nursery/garden center.  The designer would ask me to gather all the plants listed on the planting plan for the project.  After I had every plant set aside, he would then request additional plants be brought along.  Why?  So he could add, change and tweak his arrangements right then and there.

According to the plans and contracts this project (#6) is complete.  But now should come the tweaks and enhancements that take it to the next level.

Let The Landscape’s Needs Speak For Themselves

The homeowners’ previous property had many large trees.  This caused their house to be dark inside.  Out of concern for that happening again they requested no additional trees be planted on the new site.

As a result, the landscape lacks the “ceiling” effect that larger trees provide.  The space feels too open.  In addition, well-positioned trees would help integrate the large home onto the site better.  There’s a wood deck on the southwest side of the house (pass the sunblock, please) that would  really benefit with a shade tree planted nearby.  A recently installed retractable awning helps in the meantime.

Planting The Nooks & Crannies Is Key

This is especially true when working with boulders and other hardscape features.  Many plants have already been planted to soften the rock, and in 2-3 years it will look quite different.

But to really set this landscape apart, we need to identify the remaining open spaces between the rocks and along steps and pathways.  (The pic below clearly shows examples of these voids.) Here is where all those awesome plants with interesting colors, textures and forms can be used to soften the hard stone edges.  When this nooks & cranny planting has filled in (along with the original plantings), all the landscape’s elements will appear as if they had been there for years.

This is the attention to detail that distinguishes the OK gardens from the amazing gardens.  This is what makes people pause, look and feel as though it’s just been there all along.

Here’s the previous post to this project.

As a follow-up to my last post I wanted to show you the completed steps with the bluestone treads installed.  The edges of each tread are “rock-faced” with a stone chisel to soften the look of the saw cut edges.

Viewing the two stairways straight-on, as in the previous post, you now see the bluestone treads in place and the irregular pattern flagstone landing connecting them.  Notice how the landing combines the 2 stairways into one form.

The next phase involves placing large boulders off the sides of the stairways to retain the earth at each level.  The design originally had stack stone walls off the stairways, but the boulder solution carried the boulder theme from the adjacent pool setting and helped reduce the cost at the same time.  I’ll soon show you the boulders in place and the softscape (plantings) added to complete the look.

Here’s the next post on this project.

Some Examples Where Form “Should” Follow Function

You might wish to make an area appear more spacious.  It’s not uncommon to come across properties where there’s more house than yard.  Zoning rules in some towns are driven by things other than aesthetics (and common sense) and don’t allow enough open space. Neighbors can borrow a cup of sugar without leaving their homes.

Naturally small spaces like those behind city dwellings and townhouses also are challenging.  Your goal in designing these spaces is mainly to maximize their usefulness (function), but also have them appear more spacious (form).

To screen an unpleasant view. Blocking a view for privacy or because something is just unsightly is a very common function of landscaping.  But how you screen brings about many things to consider.  Your best practical and attractive solution (form) evolves through these consideration.  For example. A limited space to screen AC units would require a decorative lattice screen that could be easily removed to service the units.

Perhaps you’d like an entertainment area with enough room for twenty people. And what about the driveway/parking provisions for the family and the occasional guest? These “functional” requirements need absolute solutions that, in the end, are equally attractive.

A Functional And Beautiful Walkway

I really do love simple solutions to functional challenges.  There are, however, subtleties in design that further enhance the function of something, and give it a certain distinction from the norm.

In the picture above the designer gives real identity to a backyard entrance by using brick columns and iron gates. The designer could have ended the flagstone walkway at the gates and columns, but decided to extend the walkway out into the driveway in a perfect radius. A subtle and attractive way to welcome arriving guests.

As with everything is design, avoid going too far in your effort to make something unique.  It is so easy to cross the boundary from an elegant solution to one that will not stand the test of time.

Sometimes One Front Walk Is Not Enough

After years of family & friends traipsing over the front lawn and gardens to get to the front door from the driveway, this homeowner decided it was time for a legitimate walkway.

There is an existing front yard walkway from the street which looks great and serves the occasional visitor. They had no intention of removing this primary walk. But what they wanted was a secondary walk that would accommodate this every day foot traffic from the driveway.

From a practical sense the new front yard walkway had to be designed along the obvious route people would take. If not, folks would just continue to blaze their own path.

The challenge was to integrate this new path in such a way that it harmonized with the front landscape and was not obtrusive. By choosing a natural stone with irregular shapes and neutral tones it mimicked a subtle stone path you might see in nature.

The width of the path varied too adding further charm.

Stone slab-steps were placed strategically to overcome the sloping grade and allow level areas for walking. You can see too how this step / walk configuration also adds interest while integrating well with the landscape.

Don’t Forget The Details

PVC sleeves were strategically installed underground at three intervals along the front yard walkway. These should accommodate any underground utilities (low voltage lighting, sprinklers, etc.) they may add in the future.

Since the stone path has been installed additional plantings have been added throughout the area, including along the path. Later this spring, when the garden is in “all its glory,” I’ll photograph and post those pictures. It still amazes me how additional “detail” plantings can truly be the finishing touch to any construction project.

Before

The Landscape Renovation

A complete landscape design was developed which included most of the items on the homeowner’s “wish list”.

The property had some challenging characteristics that had to be considered such as deep shade and competitive root systems.  These two often go together.

Kearney Stone was used for the walls, front walk, landings and slab-steps. Fieldstone boulders were found on the property and used in the design to unify the home with the surroundings.

Some of the plant material selections for this landscape renovation came from the homeowner’s list, but always with a consideration for each plant’s characteristics and requirements. There’s a balanced mix of evergreens, deciduous plants, groundcovers and perennials. No matter what the season there’s always something going on plant wise.

Beacon Pathlight

There are low path lights called “beacons” which you can hardly see, yet they light the walk & steps beautifully. These lights were chosen because the family has a dog that runs free on property and we didn’t want pathlights that could be broken.

The wood lamp post from Walpole Woodworkers marks the entrance to the front walk. Day or night the woodwork of this post brings the architecture of the home out into the landscape.

With smart plant selection, proper spacing and arranging, these gardens grow with minimal maintenance. It should be a very long time before a landscape renovation should ever be considered again. In fact, with proper care and maintenance, this landscape should outlive us all.

After

After

After